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Infidel Edition
08-31-2013, 10:06 PM
So I pulled the throttle body to clean it once again...
Figuring its a free double check to address my rpm issues

So I get everything back on and fire it up...
2200 RPMS:mad:
Not a problem... Gotta adjust the throttle position sensor.
Loosen the screws tweak
*** Bam! 800 RPMS and steady.
Cut the engine to tighten the screws ~ the head breaks off the screw.:bang::bang::bang:
AND IT ISN'T A SIZE CARRIED AT ACE!
... So tap the threads or try OReilly tomorrow / or pick 'n pull...

Though I did notice that the opening on the intake man. is noticeably larger than the stock throttle body.
Thinking of using the larger 93 + if I can find 1 in good condition

nickyg
08-31-2013, 10:56 PM
And I thought that stuff only happens to me. When ever I try to fix something I usually break 3 things in the process. And I would try pick and pull for the screw if you couldn't find one at a hardware store. whenever I try to drill and tap I break more stuff.

Infidel Edition
08-31-2013, 11:20 PM
that's why I haven't drilled yet?
that'll be the last resort.

if I didn't have to drive it 900+ mi on Tues / and had$$ to replace if I f'd it up... maybe

ParadiseXJ
09-02-2013, 11:09 AM
I would try pick and pull for the screw

Me too. I wouldn't drill it, and you won't find the correct screw/washer at the hardware store or at O'Reillys....and you'll pay a premium getting it from the dealer.

Just pull it out of pretty much any year 4.0, and drop it(them) in your pocket, get the washer(s) too.

bluedragon436
09-02-2013, 11:23 AM
Yeah I'd say find yourself a PNP and maybe find a newer larger TB to put on there.. but if nothing else, like Charlie said... if you just want the screws pull em off one in the PNP and slip em in your pocket...

Infidel Edition
09-02-2013, 07:51 PM
found 1... 2 actually.
...which is good because a 2nd broke.
the threads are funky. so I had to use a couple washers.

I noticed the opening on the manifold was quite a bit larger. guessing I could go with a 91+ throttle without any issues.
just need to decide if I want to pick up an adaptor or try my luck with a mod ~ drill and tap new holes...
naugh

XJ Wheeler
09-02-2013, 09:51 PM
Never seen an adapter to put a '91+ tb on a renix manifold. They have quite a different mounting pattern.

Sent via messenger pigeon - i talk, he types.

Infidel Edition
09-03-2013, 07:14 AM
it looks like a 1/2" spacer with 3 inset holes to mount the screws flush into the manifold
...and 4 threaded holes for the newer throttle body.
I'll have to do a quick search to see if I can find 1

Infidel Edition
09-03-2013, 08:17 AM
I found a write up on it... but didn't find a seller
3560

F1Addict
09-03-2013, 11:38 AM
You know, if you're switching to the 91+ as part of a larger horsepower package (headers, CAI, ignition, hi-flow cats, etc.) then I say go for it but if you're just doing it because bigger is better, it's a waste of time and a lot of effort for little or no gain. From the factory there was only 13 horsepower and ONE ft/lb of torque difference between a Renix and an HO motor and not all of that was from the larger throttle body.

If you are determined to swap I would recommend the 60mm Leigh Performance which is a direct bolt on for $90.

Infidel Edition
09-03-2013, 12:13 PM
That's soooo far down the list of To-Do's...
If I get to the point where I have to redo the head gasket, then I'd pry look into the intake and exhaust and throttle body and ~

For now, I'm content that she runs smooth.
Gotta redo all the under the dash wiring next + and replace the dash at the same time.
Then deal with the sagging rear (the front has a 4.5" lift from the PO) The rear springs are going flat and leaves it about an 1.5" from stock. I'm gonna get it back up to match the 4.5" in front.
And paint...
And the roof has leaks under the rails. The PO over tightened something and tore the screws out...
And........

But some day.
For now, just thinking out loud. :rolleyes:

nickyg
09-03-2013, 01:34 PM
For now, I'm content that she runs smooth.
:

I'll take running smooth over more horsepower any day.

89Laredo
09-03-2013, 01:58 PM
Not a problem... Gotta adjust the throttle position sensor.
Loosen the screws tweak
*** Bam! 800 RPMS and steady.

:confused:
The tps is adjusted with the engine OFF and a multimeter or scanner... :poke:

HO tb swap would be a pita and isn't worth the hassle, just buy a bored renix one.

F1Addict
09-03-2013, 02:42 PM
That's soooo far down the list of To-Do's... the roof has leaks under the rails. The PO over tightened something and tore the screws out... :rolleyes:

I did a write-up a while back on this issue and an inexpensive fix that makes it clean and better than factory...

Since my XJ has been mechanically sound for a while, I've been looking for other things to do. Money's tight so I've been focusing on free or cheap projects. Today, I decided to replace the crappy factory screws holding the decorative rails to the roof with something better. I noticed, while rehabbing the mount rails that Jeep used rubber Well Nuts to attach them. I'm sure it was a cost issue but the decorative rails were attached using self-tapping screws and a dab of some sort of sticky stuff, presumably to prevent leaking? From the factory, they are attached using a screw and plastic collar that tends to disintegrate after several years of exposure to the elements. Sorry this isn't a more interesting project, just practicing my write-up skills for when I actually do something important

http://i140.photobucket.com/albums/r34/F1Addict/Jeep/IMG_8109_zps32c99b88.jpg

The obvious first step was to remove the rails. That revealed a nasty mess.

http://i140.photobucket.com/albums/r34/F1Addict/Jeep/IMG_8111_zps372518ab.jpg

http://i140.photobucket.com/albums/r34/F1Addict/Jeep/IMG_8141_zps2a752453.jpg

I cleaned up the mess...

http://i140.photobucket.com/albums/r34/F1Addict/Jeep/IMG_8116_zpsc0314a4b.jpg

Here are the things you'll need (besides (12) 5/16" Well Nuts, stainless button-head screws, and appropriate size nylon washers): Electric drill, pilot drill (smaller than 5/16ths), stepper drill, and masking tape.

http://i140.photobucket.com/albums/r34/F1Addict/Jeep/IMG_8121_zps4819c69c.jpg

http://i140.photobucket.com/albums/r34/F1Addict/Jeep/IMG_8133_zpsc629e09c.jpg

Tape each of the holes to prevent metal shavings from damaging the paint. This step will likely be more important to some than others. My paint is in good shape so I didn't want to mess it up with spinning spirals of sheet metal.

http://i140.photobucket.com/albums/r34/F1Addict/Jeep/IMG_8123_zpscf85b06d.jpg

Use the pilot drill to enlarge the hole. Make sure you control the drill so that you don't punch through something important (like your headliner) when it goes through. I used a vacuum to suck up the little bits.

http://i140.photobucket.com/albums/r34/F1Addict/Jeep/IMG_8126_zpsdd63643d.jpg

Next, use the stepper drill to enlarge the hole to 5/16ths inch. I marked the drill with a Sharpee so I knew when to stop.

http://i140.photobucket.com/albums/r34/F1Addict/Jeep/IMG_8128_zpsaf181023.jpg

I went slightly beyond 5/16ths creating a slight chamfer at the hole opening. This was the result.

http://i140.photobucket.com/albums/r34/F1Addict/Jeep/IMG_8131_zps4d7863dd.jpg

Next, press in the Well Nut. It can be a bit difficult but the fit needs to be as tight as possible to prevent the nut from spinning in the hole when you tighten it and to keep water out when it's tight.

http://i140.photobucket.com/albums/r34/F1Addict/Jeep/IMG_8134_zps80b0f46b.jpg

Well Nuts installed...

http://i140.photobucket.com/albums/r34/F1Addict/Jeep/IMG_8139_zpsd1d384b4.jpg

Now, reinstall the stainless rails

http://i140.photobucket.com/albums/r34/F1Addict/Jeep/IMG_8155_zps79ef4d48.jpg

Here are some other pics of the finished project...

http://i140.photobucket.com/albums/r34/F1Addict/Jeep/IMG_8171_zps67b2b27a.jpg

http://i140.photobucket.com/albums/r34/F1Addict/Jeep/IMG_8157_zps70932ccb.jpg

http://i140.photobucket.com/albums/r34/F1Addict/Jeep/IMG_8156_zps8f450f89.jpg

4.3LXJ
09-03-2013, 03:24 PM
Thanks. Something I have needed to do for awhile

Infidel Edition
09-03-2013, 04:53 PM
I know what I'm doing as soon as I get back.
I was thinking there had to be som'n that would work without dropping $$$ for jeep replacement

Infidel Edition
09-03-2013, 06:00 PM
:confused:
The tps is adjusted with the engine OFF and a multimeter or scanner... :poke:

HO tb swap would be a pita and isn't worth the hassle, just buy a bored renix one.

I thought I saw that the newer TPS has a plug over a screw (has to be drilled out with a 2mm bit) where 1 could adjust it.
...and I think I've come across "red neck" mod where people have drilled out the mounting holes to make 'em adjustable.

at any rate, it was just a thought. I'm content with a solid running RENIX.

89Laredo
09-04-2013, 01:46 AM
I don't understand what you're trying to say...

Infidel Edition
09-06-2013, 01:23 PM
I don't understand what you're trying to say...

when I get back to my office (25th+/-) I'll post the instructions I found

89Laredo
09-06-2013, 03:00 PM
For the ho tbody on renix? I know how to do that, and it's not worth it.
Your post made it sound like you adjusted your tps with the engine running and without any measurements taken, which isNOT the way to do it.

XjJeepacorn
09-08-2013, 11:14 PM
I did a write-up a while back on this issue and an inexpensive fix that makes it clean and better than factory...

Since my XJ has been mechanically sound for a while, I've been looking for other things to do. Money's tight so I've been focusing on free or cheap projects. Today, I decided to replace the crappy factory screws holding the decorative rails to the roof with something better. I noticed, while rehabbing the mount rails that Jeep used rubber Well Nuts to attach them. I'm sure it was a cost issue but the decorative rails were attached using self-tapping screws and a dab of some sort of sticky stuff, presumably to prevent leaking? From the factory, they are attached using a screw and plastic collar that tends to disintegrate after several years of exposure to the elements. Sorry this isn't a more interesting project, just practicing my write-up skills for when I actually do something important

http://i140.photobucket.com/albums/r34/F1Addict/Jeep/IMG_8109_zps32c99b88.jpg

The obvious first step was to remove the rails. That revealed a nasty mess.

http://i140.photobucket.com/albums/r34/F1Addict/Jeep/IMG_8111_zps372518ab.jpg

http://i140.photobucket.com/albums/r34/F1Addict/Jeep/IMG_8141_zps2a752453.jpg

I cleaned up the mess...

http://i140.photobucket.com/albums/r34/F1Addict/Jeep/IMG_8116_zpsc0314a4b.jpg

Here are the things you'll need (besides (12) 5/16" Well Nuts, stainless button-head screws, and appropriate size nylon washers): Electric drill, pilot drill (smaller than 5/16ths), stepper drill, and masking tape.

http://i140.photobucket.com/albums/r34/F1Addict/Jeep/IMG_8121_zps4819c69c.jpg

http://i140.photobucket.com/albums/r34/F1Addict/Jeep/IMG_8133_zpsc629e09c.jpg

Tape each of the holes to prevent metal shavings from damaging the paint. This step will likely be more important to some than others. My paint is in good shape so I didn't want to mess it up with spinning spirals of sheet metal.

http://i140.photobucket.com/albums/r34/F1Addict/Jeep/IMG_8123_zpscf85b06d.jpg

Use the pilot drill to enlarge the hole. Make sure you control the drill so that you don't punch through something important (like your headliner) when it goes through. I used a vacuum to suck up the little bits.

http://i140.photobucket.com/albums/r34/F1Addict/Jeep/IMG_8126_zpsdd63643d.jpg

Next, use the stepper drill to enlarge the hole to 5/16ths inch. I marked the drill with a Sharpee so I knew when to stop.

http://i140.photobucket.com/albums/r34/F1Addict/Jeep/IMG_8128_zpsaf181023.jpg

I went slightly beyond 5/16ths creating a slight chamfer at the hole opening. This was the result.

http://i140.photobucket.com/albums/r34/F1Addict/Jeep/IMG_8131_zps4d7863dd.jpg

Next, press in the Well Nut. It can be a bit difficult but the fit needs to be as tight as possible to prevent the nut from spinning in the hole when you tighten it and to keep water out when it's tight.

http://i140.photobucket.com/albums/r34/F1Addict/Jeep/IMG_8134_zps80b0f46b.jpg

Well Nuts installed...

http://i140.photobucket.com/albums/r34/F1Addict/Jeep/IMG_8139_zpsd1d384b4.jpg

Now, reinstall the stainless rails

http://i140.photobucket.com/albums/r34/F1Addict/Jeep/IMG_8155_zps79ef4d48.jpg

Here are some other pics of the finished project...

http://i140.photobucket.com/albums/r34/F1Addict/Jeep/IMG_8171_zps67b2b27a.jpg

http://i140.photobucket.com/albums/r34/F1Addict/Jeep/IMG_8157_zps70932ccb.jpg

http://i140.photobucket.com/albums/r34/F1Addict/Jeep/IMG_8156_zps8f450f89.jpg


Your Jeepacorn flag is missing ;) :P

XjJeepacorn
09-08-2013, 11:15 PM
Where did you get stainless rails from?

Infidel Edition
09-09-2013, 06:09 AM
:confused:
The tps is adjusted with the engine OFF and a multimeter or scanner... :poke:

HO tb swap would be a pita and isn't worth the hassle, just buy a bored renix one.

I did cut the engine before getting in there.
I just loosened the top and tapped it over.
...no clue if the voltage is different when running. Rather, I like to fire it up and run for a minute after adjusting a sensor to make sure I didn't screw the pooch.

Infidel Edition
10-06-2013, 07:43 PM
I did a write-up a while back on this issue and an inexpensive fix that makes it clean and better than factory...

Since my XJ has been mechanically sound for a while, I've been looking for other things to do. Money's tight so I've been focusing on free or cheap projects. Today, I decided to replace the crappy factory screws holding the decorative rails to the roof with something better. I noticed, while rehabbing the mount rails that Jeep used rubber Well Nuts to attach them. I'm sure it was a cost issue but the decorative rails were attached using self-tapping screws and a dab of some sort of sticky stuff, presumably to prevent leaking? From the factory, they are attached using a screw and plastic collar that tends to disintegrate after several years of exposure to the elements. Sorry this isn't a more interesting project, just practicing my write-up skills for when I actually do something important

http://i140.photobucket.com/albums/r34/F1Addict/Jeep/IMG_8109_zps32c99b88.jpg

The obvious first step was to remove the rails. That revealed a nasty mess.

http://i140.photobucket.com/albums/r34/F1Addict/Jeep/IMG_8111_zps372518ab.jpg

http://i140.photobucket.com/albums/r34/F1Addict/Jeep/IMG_8141_zps2a752453.jpg

I cleaned up the mess...

http://i140.photobucket.com/albums/r34/F1Addict/Jeep/IMG_8116_zpsc0314a4b.jpg

Here are the things you'll need (besides (12) 5/16" Well Nuts, stainless button-head screws, and appropriate size nylon washers): Electric drill, pilot drill (smaller than 5/16ths), stepper drill, and masking tape.

http://i140.photobucket.com/albums/r34/F1Addict/Jeep/IMG_8121_zps4819c69c.jpg

http://i140.photobucket.com/albums/r34/F1Addict/Jeep/IMG_8133_zpsc629e09c.jpg

Tape each of the holes to prevent metal shavings from damaging the paint. This step will likely be more important to some than others. My paint is in good shape so I didn't want to mess it up with spinning spirals of sheet metal.

http://i140.photobucket.com/albums/r34/F1Addict/Jeep/IMG_8123_zpscf85b06d.jpg

Use the pilot drill to enlarge the hole. Make sure you control the drill so that you don't punch through something important (like your headliner) when it goes through. I used a vacuum to suck up the little bits.

http://i140.photobucket.com/albums/r34/F1Addict/Jeep/IMG_8126_zpsdd63643d.jpg

Next, use the stepper drill to enlarge the hole to 5/16ths inch. I marked the drill with a Sharpee so I knew when to stop.

http://i140.photobucket.com/albums/r34/F1Addict/Jeep/IMG_8128_zpsaf181023.jpg

I went slightly beyond 5/16ths creating a slight chamfer at the hole opening. This was the result.

http://i140.photobucket.com/albums/r34/F1Addict/Jeep/IMG_8131_zps4d7863dd.jpg

Next, press in the Well Nut. It can be a bit difficult but the fit needs to be as tight as possible to prevent the nut from spinning in the hole when you tighten it and to keep water out when it's tight.

http://i140.photobucket.com/albums/r34/F1Addict/Jeep/IMG_8134_zps80b0f46b.jpg

Well Nuts installed...

http://i140.photobucket.com/albums/r34/F1Addict/Jeep/IMG_8139_zpsd1d384b4.jpg

Now, reinstall the stainless rails

http://i140.photobucket.com/albums/r34/F1Addict/Jeep/IMG_8155_zps79ef4d48.jpg

Here are some other pics of the finished project...

http://i140.photobucket.com/albums/r34/F1Addict/Jeep/IMG_8171_zps67b2b27a.jpg

http://i140.photobucket.com/albums/r34/F1Addict/Jeep/IMG_8157_zps70932ccb.jpg

http://i140.photobucket.com/albums/r34/F1Addict/Jeep/IMG_8156_zps8f450f89.jpg

got my set in the mail (25 count) so that's on the list too.
...will that fix the main rails too?