Possible lcg

[toytroy]

I have a 89 4.0 w/ax15 trans. Its been my hunting rig for sometime now. There is some real good hunting areas that can be got to with a vehicle but, my stock jeep wont make it, ive tryed multiple times. There is rutted mud hole and rocks with some very steep hills. I was thinking of doing a 2inch rusty's front coils, rc shackle relocator and a 1 inch lift shackle which will net me about 2-3inches from how it sits now in the rear. The jeep has stock 14x, xxx mile springs on it. I really dont want to replace the leafs due to I want to keep it low cg but have some flex/droop for the rear spring. I want to run 33's with fender trimmimg and bump stops. I dont need tons of travel, just good tires and axle clearances. The reason I want to stay lcg is the steep hills we have. Im not a hardcore wheeler. Ill do sand, mud and hills for the most part so I dont see the need in tons of flex. Have any of you guys done this before? Ive tryed doing a search but all I could personly find is guys doing mid arm custom fabed lcg xj's. I just want to keep short arm and upgrade the ca's and track bar down and possibly some brake lines depending. I do plan on getting some bilstien 5100 shocks in 4-5 inch lift range. Since im bumpstoping, I wont have to worry about bottoming out the shocks and ill get more drop.

The pics are how the jeep currently sits and flexs. It could flex alittle more but the jack is maxed out.

[4.3LXJ]

Maybe you need to define lcg. You mentioned 4-5" lift?

[NW99XJ]

LCOG .... Low Center Of Gravity.....
Meaning low lift height, larger tires.....
To fit 33's with only 2-3" of lift is going to require some custom fabrication, in the sense that you are going to have to cut so much metal out of your fenders/body to clear them or sacrifice up-travel so much with ridiculous amounts of bump stop, it's not going to be worth it...or you'll have to fabricate some metal sheeting to fill the massive holes in the body that will be created to fit those tires.
An ideal suspension set-up is going to have nearly equal amounts of up-travel and down travel .... this usually isnt the case...generally we have more droop than stuff..... Limiting the amount of up-travel on a 2" lift to fit 33's is going to put you in an extreme off camber situation if/when going over obstacles. You mentioned you're not much of an extreme wheeler, but I would maybe consider sticking with 31's (still a very capable tire size) ....with the right amount of traction (ie; lockers/limited slip differentials) you can climb your way in/on/over/around just about anything.
Also in sticking with 31's...you'll have ALOT less trimming to worry about, (you'll still have plenty to trim dont get me wrong) ....and you wont have to worry about the insane amount of bumpstopping. The front brake lines should be fine, once relocated farther down, and you can use a stock REAR brake line off of a TJ for the rear, which will give you some extended length.

[toytroy]

I was referring to the bilstien 5100 series 4-5" lift shocks, not the suspension.

I plan on doing lunch boxes front and rear. 31's were the first on my list but, guys are having a great deal of trouble with 3.5" lift and 31's. Not because of lift size but not enough axle clearance when there is some unavoidable ruts.

[NW99XJ]

The best way to set up/choose shocks is to set your ride height, disconnect all sway bars, and remove the existing shocks. Then measure from shock mount to shock mount at static ride height.....
Then again at a corner when fully compressed and again when fully extended (mind the brake lines as I mentioned above.)
You'll need these measurements for both front and rear (obviously they will be different.)

These numbers will give you your compressed and extended measurements which most shock manufacturers will use to determine proper application.
Without these numbers, you're just playing a guessing game, making assumptions, and hoping for the best.
Good luck.

[toytroy]

The best way to set up/choose shocks is to set your ride height, disconnect all sway bars, and remove the existing shocks. Then measure from shock mount to shock mount at static ride height.....
Then again at a corner when fully compressed and again when fully extended (mind the brake lines as I mentioned above.)
You'll need these measurements for both front and rear (obviously they will be different.)

These numbers will give you your compressed and extended measurements which most shock manufacturers will use to determine proper application.
Without these numbers, you're just playing a guessing game, making assumptions, and hoping for the best.
Good luck.

Yea, I was going to buy the shocks last to see exactly what size I would actually need. The jeep is hardly drivin so I can let it sit there with no shocks for a week or so.