1999 power lock issue

[Andrew XJ]

The locks on the jeep make noise but they don't unlock and they only lock sometimes. Any guesses?

Thanks!!!:confused:

[xj4life2]

clutches are bad , replace with a new clutch pack , they have two types standard and aggressive

[4.3LXJ]

Hey. Mark. That is power door lock not Dana power lock :D

[oderdene]

Probably lots of junk n debris collected there, remove door panel and clean well. My driver side rear acts like yours. Also check the volltage at door lock, voltage drop makes insufficient pulling power

[Brasscatz]

Both of my rear locks are like that. I think the actuators are getting too weak and need replacing

[JeepFreak]

It's the actuators. I have a 1994 Jeep Cherokee Sport 4 door and all the locks are sticking and having this problem. It's the actuators not having enough strength to push or pull the actuator arms anymore. What I do is hold the door lock/unlock for a few seconds and it usually opens or closes the locks. Not a great solution but it works on my truck anyway. An actuator for a Jeep as old as mine can run from 50-60 dollars per actuator. It all really comes down to if you care about pushing the locks open yourself or not at that price.

[Andrew XJ]

well I had a whole bunch of extra remote control hi Torq steering servos for RC cars, and I was thinking about just hooking them up to the rod that connects the button over top the door handle to the lock itself and wiring them to my switches

[JeepFreak]

That's a lot of work just to have the doors unlock and lock. Besides I don't think that the hi torque ones are going to cut it. They have to be able to move the actuators as well if I am understanding correctly. I'm pretty sure the arms are connected somewhat to the actuators. Besides that, the switches aren't very simple to wire to something not even used in a car. I would assume it would be like putting a bandaid on an arterial bleed. You'd be better off just manually doing it yourself. The locks will be a pain but I wouldn't recommend jury-rigging it with something like that. You'd be better off just replacing the actuators one at a time if money is an issue. That's what I'm going to do. But you're in South Carolina so maybe an auto parts store will have them cheaper than out here in California.

[XJ Wheeler]

I doubt the RC servos would work. The voltage may be an issue, being that most run 6.0-7.2v and in that area. Plus i don't think they would be strong enough.

I have had the same problem on my right rear door. I thoroughly cleaned it and sprayed wd-40 in the mechanisms. Worked great for a while. Its starting to act up again so i'm just gonna spray it back in there. I've done that to the other doors and it smooths them out. Try spraying some in there, just where you can get to it through the holes nearby. And work the "lock" lever back and forth to clean it out some. Even if the actuators are getting weak, a smoother operation will help it along. And really its probably good maintenance every once in a while to keep junk from building up.

Btw, fellow RC'er here. :D

Sent via messenger pigeon - i talk, he types.

[JeepFreak]

While we're on the issue of door locks, my left rear passenger door doesn't open from the outside but it will from the inside. The only time I can get it to open from the outside is if I push in the little square dealie really far and hard but it happens rarely. Anyone have an idea what is wrong considering it works EVERY time from the inside?

[4.3LXJ]

You might try taking the panel off and using something to soften the grease in the mechanism. They can get sticky. Don't use WD40, but something like a CRC product

[JeepFreak]

So I'm assuming that because one has hardened grease the others aren't far behind. While I'm at it I might as well do the rest of them. Quick question though: what does CRC stand for?

[4.3LXJ]

Beats me, just an old standby brand kind of like WD40. But they have different numbers for different things. The one I always used was CRC-W56