PDA

View Full Version : Stripped rear shock bolts (not about how to fix)


XJMikey
06-25-2013, 08:47 PM
Does anyone have a picture of where they cut or drilled their access holes in the cargo area?

I'm trying to avoid stripping the cargo area and instead cut two 4"x4" access doors in the carpet and secure it back down using Velcro. I'm going g to install bar pin eliminators (pushing them out of the shock bushing is fairly easy) and I want to give myself easy future access should I ever need to remove those bolts.
SteveMongr
06-28-2013, 06:33 AM
I would not cut through the cargo area. The upper shock mount area is raised off the
floor pan and your hand or fingers can fit in it to secure a nut to the shock. Through bolts are trouble back there.
XJMikey
06-28-2013, 07:18 AM
I would not cut through the cargo area. The upper shock mount area is raised off the
floor pan and your hand or fingers can fit in it to secure a nut to the shock. Through bolts are trouble back there.

I had to go through the floor. I couldn't break the bolt heads off or get to the nuts. It sucked, but its done and I can always have someone weld in new pieces of metal.
Mudderoy
06-28-2013, 09:08 AM
I had to go through the floor. I couldn't break the bolt heads off or get to the nuts. It sucked, but its done and I can always have someone weld in new pieces of metal.

Get some metal, some of that flexible sticky rubberized glue stuff and glue it down. Now you have an inspection plate! :D
XJMikey
06-28-2013, 09:36 AM
Get some metal, some of that flexible sticky rubberized glue stuff and glue it down. Now you have an inspection plate! :D

That's exactly what I did. Should have come from the factory this way. Lol
Mudderoy
06-28-2013, 10:11 AM
That's exactly what I did. Should have come from the factory this way. Lol

Man you ain't kidding! :beer:
SteveMongr
06-29-2013, 05:42 AM
I had to go through the floor. I couldn't break the bolt heads off or get to the nuts. It sucked, but its done and I can always have someone weld in new pieces of metal.

The bolts can be drilled out, then put in your own bolt and nut. Just enough room to fit your fingers in to get the nut positioned.
Or shift the shock over 1" and redrill and bolt to that shock plate.
It' common practice.
XJMikey
06-29-2013, 06:36 AM
The bolts can be drilled out, then put in your own bolt and nut. Just enough room to fit your fingers in to get the nut positioned.
Or shift the shock over 1" and redrill and bolt to that shock plate.
It' common practice.

Originally I wanted to go this route, but after several failed attempts, I took the "easy" way out. Someday I will have a friend weld in bar pin eliminators with reenforcement plates and never worry about this again.
rabies
08-28-2014, 09:20 AM
i know its old but i might as well drop them here for future reference or if anyone else searches. (not my pics)
drivrside
http://i943.photobucket.com/albums/ad277/rick_rabies/XJ%20Jeep/drvr.jpg (http://s943.photobucket.com/user/rick_rabies/media/XJ%20Jeep/drvr.jpg.html)
psngr
http://i943.photobucket.com/albums/ad277/rick_rabies/XJ%20Jeep/DSC_0526-1.jpg (http://s943.photobucket.com/user/rick_rabies/media/XJ%20Jeep/DSC_0526-1.jpg.html)
slvmart
08-28-2014, 05:36 PM
I did similar as the pics. But I just used a hole saw. Then put down some seam sealer and fabbed covers from aluminum thread plate. Couple of sheet metal screws on each cover was all it took.