Gauge cluster problem

[Andrew XJ]

Okay yeah I have a 99 sport, and the gauge cluster randomly shuts off and if I hit the dash it will come back on for short time. the check gauges light has come on, but I want to know what I'm looking for before I go and rip the dash out, heck I don't even know if I need to pull the dash, but any suggestions or anything you guys know about why my gauges would be doing this would be great.:pray:

[Mudderoy]

Okay yeah I have a 99 sport, and the gauge cluster randomly shuts off and if I hit the dash it will come back on for short time. the check gauges light has come on, but I want to know what I'm looking for before I go and rip the dash out, heck I don't even know if I need to pull the dash, but any suggestions or anything you guys know about why my gauges would be doing this would be great.:pray:

It's a grounding issue. My 98 did it during the winter. It was getting worse but recently the dash wash removed for a condenser, fan motor and heater core swap and so far no dead gauges. Will have to wait until the upcoming winter to see if it really made a difference.

You shouldn't have to remove the dash to fix this though. Just the cluster.

[prerunner1982]

Quotes from another thread.


In MY experience, the gauge cluster issue stems from a couple possibilities.... the primary one is the connection point.... i.e; the contacts from the cluster to the harness socket. These oxidize slightly over time, and vibration/impact will diminish connectivity, resulting in loss of signal.

The other issue that arises (party from this) is poor ground connection. There are several ground points in the dashboard sub-frame, that over time, can wiggle/vibrate, or otherwise work their way loose a bit. These are similar to the ground straps in the engine bay, and are points in which various devices/electronics in the dash come together to receive ground connection from the firewall or body.

Those who have ever taken the dash off to do a heater core swap know what i'm talking about.
Tightening these will help several things, and cleaning contact points in both the harness socket the cluster seats into as well as the contacts on the cluster itself will help as well. Sometimes resetting the contact points by slightly, and very carefully bending them inwards toward the middle more, will help create a more snug contact with the mating surface.

Now that's all taking into consideration that the cluster hasn't gone bad. In some cases the flex board (a flexy almost paper thin circuit board) on the back of the cluster, that contains "trace layers" -hair like circuit pathways in which electrical current passes. These can be damaged easily. If you've ever had to swap out a light in the cluster, the bulb housing when tightened into its socket, makes contact with this in two areas. If one of these trace layers gets broken, damaged, or in some way burnt out form a voltage spike, or a short, then your S.O.L.... these are very hard to repair and in most cases, swapping out the cluster is the best solution.