Spot and Rosette Weld Questions

[XJ Wheeler]

Okay, so I've been undertaking the cut and fold mod on my rear quarter panels. Although being rust has taken over (the real reason for doing me this mod) i can't complete it the same as generally performed.

So i cut off most of the lower quarter panel leaving approximately 1 inch of metal below the body line.

http://i1108.photobucket.com/albums/h401/xj-wheeler/Stormy%202/2013-04-09170251.jpg

Bent the leftover inch of metal up under to create a "flange" to weld to.

http://i1108.photobucket.com/albums/h401/xj-wheeler/Stormy%202/2013-04-09201715.jpg

Then i drilled several holes in the "flange" for spot welds.

http://i1108.photobucket.com/albums/h401/xj-wheeler/Stormy%202/2013-04-09203316-1.jpg

My plan was to do this and weld a plate on to the bottom to seal up the area.

There's an old trick to making a spot weld with a mig i heard of many moons ago. ( :D ) Two pieces of sheet metal, hole drilled through both, put a piece of aluminum under the hole. And the belief is when you weld around the hole the aluminum sorta rejects the weld so it puddles to create a spot weld.

Okay so NOW i wonder. Should i do that ^ type of welding or not drill holes in the plate and do small rosette welds with the holes i already drilled in the quarter panel "flange"?

Will the old trick i speak of even work? I've never actually done it.

Keep in mind i am quite a beginner, and not a very good one. So what's easier might be a good thing. I DO NOT want to rivet this. I feel that's inferior and i don't like to skimp on quality when it comes to my jeep. Any tips or tricks i should know? I have welded some but have a lot to learn. ;)

I will be using a Hobart 125 ez with flux core wire.

[4.3LXJ]

If it was me, I would stitch it with the MIG. Set it low, hit the trigger and release. It leaves a little tiny weld. Hit the trigger again next to it, release. Works well on sheet metal

[nickyg]

I don't have an answer for you, But I'm following this thread. I have the welding skills of a fat kid in 8th grade shop class and would like to learn more too.
Just my .02, Nothing wrong with rivits. Airplanes are held together with em. But you can't go wrong with building it strong as possiable.
Kudos to you for not wanting to Skimp.

[Dredwolf]

There's an old trick to making a spot weld with a mig i heard of many moons ago. ( :D ) Two pieces of sheet metal, hole drilled through both, put a piece of aluminum under the hole. And the belief is when you weld around the hole the aluminum sorta rejects the weld so it puddles to create a spot weld.



Will the old trick i speak of even work? I've never actually done it.

Keep in mind i am quite a beginner, and not a very good one. So what's easier might be a good thing. I DO NOT want to rivet this. I feel that's inferior and i don't like to skimp on quality when it comes to my jeep. Any tips or tricks i should know? I have welded some but have a lot to learn. ;)

I will be using a Hobart 125 ez with flux core wire.

Years ago, I used a copper backing plate my father made to patch sheet metal panels in the Postal Jeep he and I worked on together with his MIG welder...it worked quite well, once I got the hand of it.

Eastwood has a brief video on it, and I think I saw something like one at HF...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hz73qcP4vhI

[4.3LXJ]

Copper will work much better than aluminum. I have had steel stick to aluminum. But you cannot weld to copper bearing steel with mild steel rod. Runs off like water

[Dredwolf]

I will be using a Hobart 125 ez with flux core wire.

Some people have a tendency to really dismiss flux core wire, but if you are careful, and patient, you can weld sheet metal panels with it, and with a little flap disk work, they will look decent enough for a repair.

Watch the heat, and act as if you have all the time in the world, your welds will reflect it.

[XJ Wheeler]

Okay, cool. Thanks guys. Now, i think the great new information and lack of supplies has dictated what i will do. And i think its a good plan.

I don't have any copper plate, so that kinda kills the spot weld thing. I did get 16 gauge steel. That's the thickest i could get this late, and i feel it will work great. I better not be hitting anything that hard that far up under there. :) And i do plan on an aftermarket bumper that protects that area, in the distant future.

The new plan... Make plate to cover area, tack some welds around the perimeter with a little distance between each pass as to not warp any metal, and since i have the holes already drilled i might as well put some tacks at the holes on the flange. Then grind to my hearts content.

Thanks a ton, guys!

[Dredwolf]

It does look like HF has a version of the copper welding spoon, I might try to pick up one to try out, I still have plenty of sheet metal to repair on my K20.

http://www.harborfreight.com/welding-spoon-66785.html

[XJ Wheeler]

It does look like HF has a version of the copper welding spoon, I might try to pick up one to try out, I still have plenty of sheet metal to repair on my K20.

http://www.harborfreight.com/welding-spoon-66785.html

Yeah, i'm definitely gonna pick one of those up to try. Thanks.

[LizardRunner]

Okay, so I've been undertaking the cut and fold mod on my rear quarter panels. Although being rust has taken over (the real reason for doing me this mod) i can't complete it the same as generally performed.

So i cut off most of the lower quarter panel leaving approximately 1 inch of metal below the body line.

http://i1108.photobucket.com/albums/h401/xj-wheeler/Stormy%202/2013-04-09170251.jpg

Bent the leftover inch of metal up under to create a "flange" to weld to.

http://i1108.photobucket.com/albums/h401/xj-wheeler/Stormy%202/2013-04-09201715.jpg

Then i drilled several holes in the "flange" for spot welds.

http://i1108.photobucket.com/albums/h401/xj-wheeler/Stormy%202/2013-04-09203316-1.jpg

My plan was to do this and weld a plate on to the bottom to seal up the area.

There's an old trick to making a spot weld with a mig i heard of many moons ago. ( :D ) Two pieces of sheet metal, hole drilled through both, put a piece of aluminum under the hole. And the belief is when you weld around the hole the aluminum sorta rejects the weld so it puddles to create a spot weld. Copper is the metal to use not aluminum

Okay so NOW i wonder. Should i do that ^ type of welding or not drill holes in the plate and do small rosette welds with the holes i already drilled in the quarter panel "flange"? Either way will work, but like Steve mentioned, stitching is much better.

Will the old trick i speak of even work? I've never actually done it.Aluminum will not work as well as a copper plate backer.

Keep in mind i am quite a beginner, and not a very good one. So what's easier might be a good thing. I DO NOT want to rivet this. I feel that's inferior and i don't like to skimp on quality when it comes to my jeep. Any tips or tricks i should know? I have welded some but have a lot to learn. ;) when you can, practice first on the same type of metals you will be welding. Then just take your time and remember to breathe, you will do just fine.

I will be using a Hobart 125 ez with flux core wire.

[XJ Wheeler]

Okay, i should have asked the other day but it didn't come to mind.

I'm welding it now, but do i need to stitch weld every part of the seam? Or is it like an every 1/2" type of thing?

[4.3LXJ]

For that, just a few welds will hold it in place

[XJ Wheeler]

For that, just a few welds will hold it in place

I may have overdone it then.

http://i1108.photobucket.com/albums/h401/xj-wheeler/Stormy%202/2013-04-13200044-1.jpg

I didn't see this till after i was done. How'd i do?

[4.3LXJ]

I may have overdone it then.

http://i1108.photobucket.com/albums/h401/xj-wheeler/Stormy%202/2013-04-13200044-1.jpg

I didn't see this till after i was done. How'd i do?

You missed a spot :P