Pre-Lift apprehensions, questions, and more questions

[Paddletrucker]

So, a little background.

I bought the XJ in late summer 2011, and a 3" Rough Country lift shortly thereafter. I'd planned on doing the lift in early 2012, but due to things I couldn't control, I ended up working a whole bunch during 2012 and the lift was in storage and I did nothing to the Jeep but drive it when I wasn't on the road. Now, after I've grounded the Jeep due to a bad tire, it's time to do the lift, so I can ditch the 215's and get some 31x10.50's and get back to building my fishing assault vehicle. That's right, I've owned the XJ since 2011 and had the lift in storage since then. Haven't opened the boxes until today when I got them out. Originally, I had access to a very nicely equipped shop and a guy who'd done many lift, including XJ lifts. My problem is that I've forgotten a lot of things, I've lost access to the well equipped shop where the lift was going to be done, the knowledge of the guy who owned the shop (long story), and I'm not too sure about a few things.


I ordered all this stuff, but don't remember most of my reasoning why. I don't even remember what I gave for all this stuff. :crazy: The RC instructions go something like this.....1. Remove all suspension parts. 2. Install lift on front. 3. Repeat process for rear.:bang: They did send lots of stickers, though.:p Needless to say, I'm feeling a little overwhelmed by the thought of doing this in my driveway, but if it's going on, it looks like that's going to be how. Pretty disappointed in the RC directions. I did go to their site and saw a youtube video where they did a lift in 6 minutes. Yeah, right. Looks like it's more intimate time with the 'ol search function.

http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj298/picsofnate/2DEB5FCB-4BCD-4A33-99AA-0BD621F60902-2870-0000037226EEAE3E.jpg

Springs, looks like I've got too many control arms, a track bar, and more springs.

Box of the "best shocks Rough country sells" supposedly. At least in 2011.
http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj298/picsofnate/A4D35DA6-44F6-4121-8678-42FDA0E88432-2870-0000037206EFE106.jpg

What the heck is this thing for???:confused:
http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj298/picsofnate/C1889A3D-B011-4BF8-9ECB-E3A3B9C57CED-2870-000003721C7DE95F.jpg

Odds and ends.
http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj298/picsofnate/E8244350-8412-442D-80E9-4DC08E47237D-2870-00000371D46C9B32.jpg

Two brackets for something, but I don't know for sure. Why do I have so many U-bolts? Then there's a bunch of shock boots, and a steering stabilizer. I'm guessing the hardware is all there.

I'm thinking I should have some shackles, shouldn't I? I can't see the stock shackles working with these longer springs. If I need some, I might order the adjustable ones from Ironman Andy.:thumbsup: Maybe even a shackle relocation kit. Maybe.

So questions. I've got a lot of them.

I'd decided on a 3" lift for some reason. I can't remember why. How big of a deal would it be to get some spacers for the coil springs and longer shackles for the rear to get a little more? Maybe the shackle relocation kit? I want to stay on 31x10.50's, though, as this will remain my daily driver and primarily for using on lake side trails to take me fishing.

I'm really worried about breaking things off in the unibody. If that happens, can it be dealt with in my driveway? I've been unsuccessful thus far with the search feature finding any tutorial on what to do if a nut spins or a bolt breaks that you can't get to.

I was going to use my stock wheels and spacers. After thinking on it, I think I'm going to buy some wheels. Rough Country told me 4.5 inches of back spacing, I THINK. I can't remember for sure. I want a pretty wide stance. Is there a problem with going to 4.25 or even wider?

Looking at all the stuff I have, can you see anything I'm missing, or that you think I should have? I don't want to get this thing all taken apart and find that I need things. That's annoying.

I seem to remember choosing a 3" lift because I wouldn't need a T-case drop or an SYE. I've been reading recently, however, that I WILL need at least a T-Case drop. IF I need to do that, and IF I need to order some shackles, I'm thinking of ordering some spacers for the front and getting the stuff from Ironman Andy to get a touch more than 3". Otherwise, I'll just go with 3" for now.

I'm sure I'll think of more questions as I cruise the forums and try to refresh my memory after being absent for almost a year.

[BlackYeti]

Those are swaybar relocation brackets.
4 U bolts are needed, but maybe one set is for a dana 35 and the other is for the crysler 8.25
You probably wont know about shackles until you get your old springs removed.
Not sure about wheels. The farther they stick out the quicker they will wear the wheel bearings as far as I understand. That being said you could get 100k miles out of them or 10k. You really never know. I believe mine are backspaced at 4.50 and I am needing to replace my front wheel bearing right now. I dont believe its because of the wheels though, more along the lines of normal wear and tear.

One rule of thumb when it comes to XJs, when you tear it apart, you will almost always need something else. That is just they way it goes on an 18 year old vehicle. Yes its annoying, but if you expect it, it isnt so bad.

Before you do an SYE or a t-case drop, put the lift on and drive it. You may get lucky. And you may just need to set the pinion angle of the rear diff.

If I were in your shoes, I would get me a bottle of cheap transmission fluid and acetone (search for home made penatrating oil) and mix a 50/50 solution and start soaking anything you are going to be unbolting. Mainly the front leaf spring bolts, they can be a real b!tch most of the time. And I mean soak them.

From the pictures of the kit, it looks pretty complete. The wrench looks like a spanner wrench for some flex joints. Are there 2 sets of lower control arms or is that a set of upper and lower control arms?

One thing I dont see there is a set of Quick Disconnects for the front sway bar. I would highly recommend a set of those and ditch the (Brackets) for some adjustment in a set of JKS quick discos.

If this post confuses you, please let me know so I can clarify.

It might not hurt to give Rough Country a call and get a new set of instructions.

[bigjim350]

First off, you got that many ubolts cause they send one size for a D35 and one size for the 8.25. The wider ones are for the 8.25. The funny looking wrench is used to rebuild your flex joints on the control arms. And yes you do have too many control arms. Looks like two sets of lower control arms. Your stock shackles will work with those leaf springs. But if you do add spacers on the front, any aftermarket lift shackle will work fine on those leafs too. The only bolts id be worried about are leaf spring bolts and shock mount bolts(on the rear upper shocks) All of which you should be able to handle in a driveway.

[bluedragon436]

The control arms are correct... He has what at the time was RC's first flex series lifts... The arms with the bend in them are your lower control arms, and the arms that are adjustable and have the rebuild-able end on them are the upper arms, so you can adjust your pinion angle if need be... Nice to see that you have full pack leafs instead of AAL, and yes they will work with the stock shackles... but if you got some money to put towards the XJ, you could pick up the adj. shackles so that you have the ability later if you decide to raise that back end up a little bit more..I think if you go much more than 3" of lift, you'll want to go to 33's instead of 31's, to fill the gap more and to give you a more balanced look... if you run some spacers and shackles you can take it up to 4-4.5" of lift, at which time you will be looking to need a TC drop... Most XJ's dont need a TC drop @ 3" of lift... but not all are the same, so it is more of a install everything and drive it, if you have the vibrations then you'll need to pick on up... if not hten you are good to go.. But from my research when I was doing my lift research, 3" usually doesn't need a TC drop or SYE or anything...

[Mudderoy]

Order you a pair of sway bar disconnects. I'd just install that instead of the what came with the kit.

Get a strut compressor from Oreilys, not the coil compressor. Just "rent" it. If you don't have a 1/2 impact you'll be there a little while compressing the coils with it though. And be careful with that damn thing, gives me the willies!

Oh everything is pretty straight forward, the only issue may be the upper bolts holding the shocks in the rear. Start spraying them last year with WD40, bacon grease, anything that you think might work.

[bigjim350]

Those adjustable arms are not upper arms (atleast for a xj) XJ upper control arms do not have bushings at both ends. A upper arm would have a bushing at the frame end and the other end would go over the bushing that is in the axle

Sent from my nerdy smartphone

[4.3LXJ]

Nate, when you get ready to do it, let us know and I will walk you through it step by step. The front will be the most time consuming.

[bluedragon436]

Those adjustable arms are not upper arms (atleast for a xj) XJ upper control arms do not have bushings at both ends. A upper arm would have a bushing at the frame end and the other end would go over the bushing that is in the axle

Sent from my nerdy smartphone

OH wow, you are right... didn't even notice the bushing part... just the adjustable part... cause I know from what I remembered seeing when I was doing some research, was there was an older version of what is now called the flex kit that had adj. arms only on the top... so was thinking it was that setup... or guess it is still that setup, just the wrong ends to the arms... shouldn't really need to replace the upper arms @ 3" anyways I guess... so look those would work nicely to have adj. lower arms then.. LOL

[Paddletrucker]

Thanks, guys. I appreciate it. I was leaning heavily on the use of a shop and a guy who's done a LOT of lifts. That route is no longer an option, so I was freaking out a little once I dug into all those parts!:pray::pray::pray:

So, do I use the adjustable arms, or the solid ones? I kinda liked the look of the bend in the non-adjustable ones. I'm sure the adjustable ones cost extra.

What are the advantages of them being adjustable? I wouldn't have a clue on how to properly adjust them.

I pulled one of my boneheaded maneuvers on my zero-turn mower a little bit ago and now it's tied to a tree with a thick cable.:bang::bang::bang:

It's supposed to rain later, and I've got to go out and see if I can get that cable unwound from beneath the mower deck.

If it starts raining, the lift gets put off again. Oh, well. One more day of squirting "slick 'em" all over the undercarriage if it starts raining.

[XJ Wheeler]

I would go with the adjustable arms. They are adjustable so you're able to change the caster/pinion angle, for proper alignment.

On an earlier question, if you like a wider stance i would go with 4" backspacing. I personally have 3 3/4" bs and i feel its just about perfect, but i also have a taller lift so it is okay. My brother has even wider at 3 1/4" bs with a 3" lift and it just looks to wide, almost doesn't look lifted because of the width.

These guys have great advice, and remember we're here when the time comes. And most of installing this (and well most of working on vehicles in general) is unbolting parts and putting them back on in the correct order. You got dis!

[bcso290]

Rough Country instructions are useless. I just did my 4.5 RC lift this weekend. I really like how the instructions say remove part and install replacement part. No tips or anything. I will give RC this, if you do have a question, call them and the sales rep (at least for me) is helpful.

[Paddletrucker]

I would go with the adjustable arms. They are adjustable so you're able to change the caster/pinion angle, for proper alignment.

I guess you have to take them off to adjust them? IN any case, I think adjustable is better.




On an earlier question, if you like a wider stance i would go with 4" backspacing. I personally have 3 3/4" bs and i feel its just about perfect, but i also have a taller lift so it is okay. My brother has even wider at 3 1/4" bs with a 3" lift and it just looks to wide, almost doesn't look lifted because of the width.

What, other than the look, is the problem with the wider spacing? YOu say it's okay because you have a taller lift. Can there be a rubbing problem with the wider spacing? I was thinking of going 4' or 4.25 of back spacing. Sure wish I could see a few examples in person, but that's just not going to happen, so the best I can do is figure out what will work and what I want according to pictures of other Jeeps.

In the long run, I know I'll like it better than what it is now.

Does anyone know what the backspacing is on the stock wheels? That would help me some, too.

[XJ Wheeler]

I guess you have to take them off to adjust them? IN any case, I think adjustable is better.

Just take one end off and twist, should do it.





What, other than the look, is the problem with the wider spacing? YOu say it's okay because you have a taller lift. Can there be a rubbing problem with the wider spacing? I was thinking of going 4' or 4.25 of back spacing. Sure wish I could see a few examples in person, but that's just not going to happen, so the best I can do is figure out what will work and what I want according to pictures of other Jeeps.

In the long run, I know I'll like it better than what it is now.

Does anyone know what the backspacing is on the stock wheels? That would help me some, too.

Wider is a little harder to fit in the fender. But looks is the main one.

I believe the stock backspacing is 5.25", but i don't know if thats for the 6" or 7" wide wheels. Would you like a pic of mine and my brothers?

[bigjim350]

I ran 30" tires on a 15x8 wheel with a 4" backspace and only 2" of lift and had no problems.. Almost every aftermarket steel wheel comes standard with 4" backspace. A 4" backspace will make the outside of the tire about even with the flares, maybe just a tiny bit outside of the flares depending on the tire.

[Paddletrucker]

Would you like a pic of mine and my brothers?

Sure! I never would turn down Jeep pictures to look at and compare.:D

[Paddletrucker]

I ran 30" tires on a 15x8 wheel with a 4" backspace and only 2" of lift and had no problems.. Almost every aftermarket steel wheel comes standard with 4" backspace. A 4" backspace will make the outside of the tire about even with the flares, maybe just a tiny bit outside of the flares depending on the tire.

That sounds about what I want, I think. I'm not too worried about stuffing the tire up into the fender, as I'm not really a hardcore wheeler. Now later on, after I add some more inches:D:D maybe I will.

Right now, it just has to take me fishing.:thumbsup:

[XJ Wheeler]

Sure! I never would turn down Jeep pictures to look at and compare.:D

Okie dokie! Mine is the blue one, with 4.5" lift (measures 5"f, 5.5"r)- 31x10.50x15s- 15x8" with 3 3/4" bs. His (red) has 3" lift (measures 2"f, 2.5"r)-31x10.50x15s-15x8 with 3 1/2" bs.

http://i1108.photobucket.com/albums/h401/xj-wheeler/Chris%20Jeeps/CIMG9715-1.jpg

[Paddletrucker]

Awesome looking gear. I really think I want to stay on 31's, but I'm thinking I wanna go up a touch more than 3". I think I'll do the three and see what I think. Yours is about the look I'm going for. I really like the back spacing on those wheels!

I appreciate the pic!


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[XJ Wheeler]

Awesome looking gear. I really think I want to stay on 31's, but I'm thinking I wanna go up a touch more than 3". I think I'll do the three and see what I think. Yours is about the look I'm going for. I really like the back spacing on those wheels!

I appreciate the pic!


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Happy to help, and thanks!

[XjJeepacorn]

Rough Country instructions are useless. I just did my 4.5 RC lift this weekend. I really like how the instructions say remove part and install replacement part. No tips or anything. I will give RC this, if you do have a question, call them and the sales rep (at least for me) is helpful.

I find that's how most people's write ups are to lol!

[XjJeepacorn]

And back to what who ever was saying about those pain in the butt rear upper shock mount bolts, holly pita! Here I am installing my lift thinking oh the rear ones will be easy... Annnnntttttt wrong! I ended up torching those suckers out lol!
Now this time around, I have ordered ball pin eliminators. I HIGHLY recommend looking into this. If you wanna keep your jeep a really long time you'll have to do them again, or if you decide you want a bigger lift. I wish I knew about these back then. Detours has some I believe. I ordered from a Canadian company because shipping and import fees suck for me (sorry fellas) so yeah check em' out!