Dana 30 woes

[denverd1]

I can't believe I'm already looking for a replacement axle. Or about to rebuild this one. At any rate, the clicking noise I thought was coming from my drive shafts was actually the front pumpkin. Got the SYE put in and picked it up yesterday. Wasn't going to do it myself in 30* weather we've been having recently..

On the way home the clicking noise got a bit louder. I check both DSs, axle joints and tried to move the front pinion to see if it was loose. Everything checked out. So I thought I would engage the 4wd to try and isolate the issue. the "click" turned into more of a bang. :bang: :bang: :bang: That pretty much narrowed it down ring and pinion gears up front. This morning fired her up and engaged the 4wd to get a better idea of it.

It bangs about every 18" i drive. Running 33's with 3.55 ratio. Haven't done the math but I'm 95% the pinion bearing or crush sleeve or something is going bad up front. The diff even felt warm at the yoke. Awesome. I wheeled it pretty hard out Barnwell in Gilmer and threw the front DS bearings on the way home. got those fixed but didn't think to check the diff. :mad:

So. Got a few different options. Local yard has a D30 3.55 for $250. Also talking to a guy in Houston with a D30 that has a locker for a tad more. I was planning to lock it, just not right away but I'm likely going to spring for it since I'm going to be in there anyway. Or should I upgrade? Or could I have the pinion bearings and seals rebuilt, then lock it and go about my merry way? I doubt the gears are damaged.. :confused:

Are there any D44's left from XJ's likely to be found? Haven't checked local yards yet... All the D44's I've seen have been 8 lug, so that would throw at least 2 rims into the budget. Any other options for a good front axle?

[4.3LXJ]

If you are looking for D44 fronts for an XJ, they don't exist accept for a few rigs in South America, and I think NAXJA snapped them all up. Before you get too involved I would recommend you pull the axles and check them that way. If it is 18" to each bang I would suspect it is actually an axle Ujoint that doesn't look bad yet. Have your sweetheart drive it at idle in low range while you walk beside it. I have done this and found stuff like squeaking hubcaps and other weird stuff

[gary63]

I would go for the 250 yard one for now and keep your old one and take your time and rebiuld it the way you want with the locker and anything als you want to do with it.That is what I'm doing I'm sleving the housing and gusiting and upgrading spring pads.It is allways nice to have sper parts.:rolleyes:

[prcjeep]

Dont buy the one in houston thats actually in the woodlands, with locker, red diff cover yatayatayata, the guys an a-hole. And 350 is way to much for that axle.

There are several you can find in our JY around houston... will pay about 160 including core charge

X2 what Steve said above as well... & Every 18 inches would be about 5-6 times per full tire rotation

[cantab27]

yeah pull cover and have a lookie first.........then sell your left nut and lock it.....

[denverd1]

I'll give the walk along a whirl. But, axle joints were replaced less than 1000 miles ago. Also, there wasn't any play in them when I gave it the first once-over. I guess 250 to get me wheeling again isn't too bad, just makes it an expensive week. I can feel whatever's going on through the steering wheel and a bit in the floorboard so we'll have to see. I did however check out my driveshaft and its built like a tank. So I guess I didn't get screwed too bad by the only shop in town that does this kind of work. they said my old shaft was extended, but rebuilt top to bottom is more like it. its pure beef so maybe it will hold up.

[denverd1]

Dont buy the one in houston thats actually in the woodlands, with locker, red diff cover yatayatayata, the guys an a-hole. And 350 is way to much for that axle.

There are several you can find in our JY around houston... will pay about 160 including core charge

X2 what Steve said above as well... & Every 18 inches would be about 5-6 times per full tire rotation

Patrick, thanks for the heads up. He came down a bit but will have to "put it back together". I'll pass..

[denverd1]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YHLXQsy8T3I&feature=youtube_gdata_player

http://youtu.be/YHLXQsy8T3I

this is the noise I'm hearing. Gents take a look and let me know if this amount of play is normal.

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[msmoorenburg]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YHLXQsy8T3I&feature=youtube_gdata_player

this is the noise I'm hearing. Gents take a look and let me know if this amount of play is normal.

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Its time to rebuild the cv joint you should have 0 play

[4.3LXJ]

Yup, CV joint. That is a lot better than rebuilding a diff.

[denverd1]

Yup, CV joint. That is a lot better than rebuilding a diff.

Isn't that the truth!! :thumbsup:

[4.3LXJ]

Yeah, we thought it was a u joint, just not that one. Shows the power of collective wisdom

[denverd1]

good call steve! the walk along worked perfectly! In the video you can hear my wife bitching about sitting out in the jeep all night! I failed to tell her we were just doing the diagnostic part of things!! :smiley-laughing021:

So I found this thread: http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f11/cv-driveshaft-rebuild-part-deux-345170/

got a few parts #'s I may cross-reference with AutoZone to make sure I get the right parts. Anybody got other info?

also, I'm sure this is why the other joint in the shaft failed from torqueing it with that much play.. glad to get it solved.

[prcjeep]

Just curious, Is it throwing any codes with the O2 sensor wires being cut?

[denverd1]

Yea got a check eng line light on but haven't checked codes

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[Mudderoy]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YHLXQsy8T3I&feature=youtube_gdata_player

http://youtu.be/YHLXQsy8T3I

this is the noise I'm hearing. Gents take a look and let me know if this amount of play is normal.

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Good Lord! There's your problem, the O2 sensor has a short!

[denverd1]

Good Lord! There's your problem, the O2 sensor has a short!

Got PO to thank for that.... Jeep fires up first try!! :rolleye0012:

[denverd1]

I'm going to pick up the bearing and hope that I don't need the yoke. If I do, hopefully I can pick one up before things close tonight. Thx for the help guys, more info later.

[denverd1]

I think bearings are fine I only got one out before I had to leave. Found the problem
No spring on the centering ball and no needles left on the bearing!
Now if I can find the parts I'll be in business

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[denverd1]

Part number Spicer C2-83 219
Now we're getting somewhere


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[denverd1]

so precision 607 is a replacement. can't tell if I need the other side or not... the opposing side is welded to the shaft. Hope I don't need to replace it too
http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/PRE0/607.oap?keyword=607

[Metlic53]

i had the same thing happen to my 97, it was real bad at 80 mph lol
i had napa rebuild the whole driveshaft, cost me like 100 total with everything replaced

[denverd1]

got it rebuilt. spent 75 on parts, 20 of which was expedited shipping. I could start another thread and post more pics (didn't take many, it was 3 handed job) but its done and ready to install. if I had the parts on hand, it wouldn't have taken more than an hour. Your local parts retailer doesn't stock the part....

Mine has 207K on it. If you have driveline vibes and can't narrow it down, cheap insurance for a lifted rig with moderate to high miles.

[denverd1]

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/01/24/upa3yvat.jpg

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[denverd1]

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/01/24/y6y3eqeq.jpg

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[denverd1]

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/01/24/ja2a4e5y.jpg

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[denverd1]

Got the shaft mounted up last night in the dark. Noticed a little play in the front pinion. Took it for a spin and its a lot better. No noise at any speed but I do have a vibe issue that comes alive at 50mph. So im guessing it still my Dana 30 that will need some attention.

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[denverd1]

still tossing around ideas/options for fixing this vibe and ultimately making the front end more reliable. I'm sure I'll go through u joint bearing quicker with the front pinion moving around like it is. Makes me nervous to drive more than a few miles from the house. Found a Dana 30 w 5.13 gears and warn lockouts for 400. just can't decide what direction to take it.

[4.3LXJ]

That is cheap enough for sure. The lockouts alone are at least twice that

[denverd1]

It is. But to take advantage of the 5.13s, wouldn't I need to be on 35s? so that means another 2" of lift, longer shocks, and more trimming. All places I want to get to, just not at the moment. I'd rather spend money on a locker and slowly build to that point. OR should I jump on this axle and regear the rear and know I have the potential to run 35 without worrying about gears ever again...?

[4.3LXJ]

If I was going to go for the stronger D30 I would get the axle and use it for parts. The lockout kit is in the $1200 range and keep the axle shafts for spares, sell the carrier for someone that wants 4.10s. I checked Randy's Ring & Pinion site and they don't list a 5.13 gear set for an 8.25. So I am thinking you need to get into a D44 to match that ratio. So if you were wanting to build a strong D30, the value of this axel is for parts only. It just depends on how you want to go and what you want to spend. But if I was doing it, I would be looking for matched Waggy axels and do a little welding. D44s have the best aftermarket support of any axel assembly out there.

[denverd1]

to make things more complicated he's got a set of 4.88 gears for the d30. Looks like C8.25 can accept them.... so how does that affect things?

[4.3LXJ]

Here is our link for a gear calculator.

http://www.xjtalk.com/showthread.php?t=9147&highlight=gear+calculator

I think 4.88s are still a little steep even though you can match them to the 8.25. Us the gear calculator to see if you can live with this ratio. You will have to factor in your overdrive in the tranny for that. But I would caution you that you may be falling into the trap of getting a good deal on something and end up spending a lot of money on the Jeep you weren't planning to spend to make it all work.

[denverd1]

Ok the D30 is welded. Do the lockouts mean I can 'disable' the welded spiders?

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[4.3LXJ]

Yes. If you unlock the hubs, you have no connection to the wheels. Yo wouldn't know it was there then.

[denverd1]

well he'll sell me a toyota rear axle, D30 with lockouts, put the 4.88 back in. for 550

[4.3LXJ]

Which toy rear? And how good re his install skills?

[denverd1]

yea thats my only concern with these gray market diff jobs...

[denverd1]

Which toy rear? And how good re his install skills?

Not sure but its got 5.71's in it!

I think I'm done with this guy....

[denverd1]

Which toy rear? And how good re his install skills?

Not sure but its got 5.71's in it! I think I'm done with this guy... Steve, thanks for your help.

I'll probably buy the local yard's D30 then lock it and swap it in. Of course I've got a ticking time bomb under my jeep right now....

[denverd1]

More fun. Noticed some play in the u joints on the pinion yoke so I tried to tighten them up. Broke one. Also found a little slop in the pinion itself. Heres a vid of what's going on. BTW torque spec is 80 ft/lbs on those bolts. Not sure why the straps were still loose. WWJD - What would jeepers do? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k191KC3axtk&feature=youtube_gdata_player

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[gary63]

that is loose are the straps the right ones or are they home made or the u-ioint cap may be small.I got one from a part store that someone swopped the caps on 2 of them.found out someone got2 deffernt u joint changed the caps and returned one.they were putting a wecking yard drive shaft into a nother car with deffernt size caps.

[denverd1]

replaced the straps. Auto zoner told me it was the right one..... I need to take them out and compare with what I took out. On the XJTalk podcast, someone (i forget who) mentioned that they should be replaced and torqued. I find 80 lbs to be a tad much.

[gary63]

if you torqued them to 80 lbs and the strap is all the way down.the cap wasn't moveing only the joint. if the straps are all the way down I would think the joint is wrong if the strap not all the way down then I would think the cap is wrong. as for the part person telling you they are the right one they go by the part # on the box.









I

[denverd1]

Straps
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/02/04/8ysa7u6y.jpg
Bearings
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/02/04/ehyzy4yr.jpg
Not sure what the different colors mean....

About to extract bolt
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[denverd1]

I can see a tiny difference in the thickness of the straps. We'll see

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[denverd1]

Well that couldn't have gone any worse. Looks I won't have 4x4 for a while. :banghead::banghead::banghead:

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[4.3LXJ]

You think you might need a new yoke?

[denverd1]

I'm thinking I do. Noticed I can grab 1 for 50. Drilled it out with a bigger bit but no action yet. I'll prolly try to go with a u bolt style like my rear has

[denverd1]

Another view of the straps. Don't have the box from POs work or OEM....
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/02/04/yzubu7aj.jpg
Top is what I took off, replaced w bottom
This wouldn't have happened if I had just put the old ones back on!

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[denverd1]

anybody know the size of the pinion nut? 1-1/8" is what I found searching....

[msmoorenburg]

anybody know the size of the pinion nut? 1-1/8" is what I found searching....

i used a 30mm to buzz mine off

[msmoorenburg]

Another view of the straps. Don't have the box from POs work or OEM....
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/02/04/yzubu7aj.jpg
Top is what I took off, replaced w bottom
This wouldn't have happened if I had just put the old ones back on!

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the dorman replacement straps are crap!!!! they didn't last 10 miles before the u-joint cap was loose

[denverd1]

Ugh.. So I got my u-bolt kit installed and buttoned up. Took it for a drive and no vibes! It's nice to be able to run 60 mph without things sounding like they could explode at any moment. Shot a little vid of the play in my front diff. Looks like there's too much movement b/w ring and pinion IMO but I don't know what its supposed to look like :/

take a look and let me know what you think.

[denverd1]

gotta upload the video.... Also, couldn't I do a rebuild of the diff and as long as I don't mess with the shims just put everything back together without throwing off the tolerances?

[4.3LXJ]

No, the number of shims are based on machining tolerances that vary from bearing to bearing.

[denverd1]

Ok well I'm going to have to figure something out. Not shown in the vid is the up and down play the pinion has. Also started making some interesting noises when I drove it yesterday
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9O2vU908T6M&feature=youtube_gdata_player

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http://youtu.be/9O2vU908T6M

[Mudderoy]

Ok well I'm going to have to figure something out. Not shown in the vid is the up and down play the pinion has. Also started making some interesting noises when I drove it yesterday
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9O2vU908T6M&feature=youtube_gdata_player

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http://youtu.be/9O2vU908T6M

I think mine moves that much. Side to side anyway. Couldn't tell if you were moving it up and down, or in and out.

[denverd1]

it moves slightly up and down. I didn't push or pull on it...

[4.3LXJ]

What I saw in your vid was rotational movement. This would be the result of gear wear. That happens to any of them. You would not be able to shim that out. If you did, it would growl loudly

[denverd1]

Steve, thats what I was showing, rotational movement. Seemed to me that a diff shouldn't move that much between contact points on the teeth. Guess its normal...

[4.3LXJ]

They do wear and do that. Go check your rear and you will find the same wear.