Question about pulling the motor

[PurpleXJ]

First off, I apologize if this is in the wrong area. Secondly, I have a 96 2wd xj with the I6 4.0.

After years of the PO's neglect and 'making stuff work' all the passenger motor mount bolts sheared off. Im looking at pulling the motor so I can remove them and fix up a few other things.

My question is do I need to remove the trans? (auto). Ive heard its a major PITA to get to the torque converter bolts to take it off and even worse to put back on.
Thanks in advance guys!

[4x4Dalton]

It's sort of a PITA but not to bad. Also speaking from experience on the passenger side motor mount bolt issue. Did any by chance crack the threaded part of the block where they are located? If so it's going to real hard to get a bolt to stay in there. The PO of my 95 did that to all 3. Now it is held up on right side by wait for it.........a 16 inch long piece of the stock jack handle wedged into block and into frame. Lol ask a few members they have seen it. If you have more then one of the threaded parts in block broke your best bet is to get a set of BrownDog motor mounts. They have 5 extra mounting points on engine that can be used in their design. Sorry for the long bit on the motor mount bolts just don't want another member to go thru what I have.


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[PurpleXJ]

Brown dog.. Sounds familiar. I know I was looking at bomb proof mounts? Is that what theyre called? Had like 8 mounting points on each I think.

Edit: I forgot to add that yes, one of the holes are for sure cracked. I haven't checked all because I was ready to just push it into a river and leave haha.

[4x4Dalton]

Brown dog.. Sounds familiar. I know I was looking at bomb proof mounts? Is that what theyre called? Had like 8 mounting points on each I think.

Yep that's them :D


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[PurpleXJ]

So how bad is pulling the trans off? I'm confident I could do it, just which ever route is easiest I would prefer.

[4x4Dalton]

There's a couple of bolts up top that are kinda hard to get to but not to the point that you can't. Also when pulling it out once bolts are out lift up a lil on it and should come right on out. Plus make sure to unhook all wires going to it before you remove it or that's a whole different kinda PITA


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[PurpleXJ]

Alright, I plan on doing it extremely slow... Like over the course of a few weeks because time is tight for me. Which is even more of a reason to label every single thing I touch.

[4x4Dalton]

Yea that's a good idea.


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[PurpleXJ]

Well hopefully I dont hit any major snags. If I do this thread shall be the first to know! Lol. Just need to find time now

[4x4Dalton]

If you hit any snags just ask. Me or someone else will be glad to help ya out. :)


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[XJ Wheeler]

When i replaced the heads on my bronco 2 it took a long time. Between machine shop dilemmas and finding a replacement head it end up being months between tear down and reassembly. And because that amount of time i forgot a ton. One thing that helped the most was TAKE A LOT OF PICTURES. Take a picture of every connection, every part as they are removed. And like stated, label liberally.

[Carves]

Have you got some lifting gear ... or are you doing it in the driveway ???

I'd pull the radiator and anything else ... that will maximise engine bay clearance.

The two top bolts 4x4Dalton mentioned should be PITA torx thingymajigs ... but if you angle the engine/gearbox assy enough ... and support it ... they're easier to get at.

Dont take top bolts out before the others tho ... the weight of the box can lock up/strip the bottom ones ...

... and be gentle with plastic clips on linkages ;);)

I had mine off using a hoist and g'box jack ... and still did a bunch of cussing and spitting .. even tho its a fairly straightforward job..:D:D

Pics and labelling are a good idea.

[PurpleXJ]

Im going to take a but load of pictures/videos. I will be doing it in my driveway, Im going to be doing a lot of stuff over time while the motor is out. Maybe even rattle can paint job. I was looking at a manual trans 4x4 for like 350-400. Motor was blown but i could probably swap mine over. I want to build it into a camping rig. Small lift. Roof rack with a car topper tent. Camp stove on a pull out rack in the back.


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[4.3LXJ]

One word to the wise. Replace all torx bolts with standard hex head bolts. Especially on that crank position sensor. If you ever have to replace it, you will thank yourself later. Also, speaking of CPS, you might want to change it as a preventative measure anyway while it is easy to get to. Use dielectric grease on all connections when going back together too.

[PurpleXJ]

One word to the wise. Replace all torx bolts with standard hex head bolts. Especially on that crank position sensor. If you ever have to replace it, you will thank yourself later. Also, speaking of CPS, you might want to change it as a preventative measure anyway while it is easy to get to. Use dielectric grease on all connections when going back together too.

I swapped it like 1000miles before the mount went. And I will clean a lot of the electrical connections. Its throwing a code so might as well attempt to fix that while im there. Im going to be extremely meticulous about it.


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[PurpleXJ]

So simple question. Can I pull the motor with the trans till attached?


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[cantab27]

http://www.ehow.com/how_7872587_pull-out-1996-jeep-cherokee.html

whys she coming out......me i would leave trans in but yeah can be

[cantab27]

Haynes repair manual contains a decent step by step.

[4.3LXJ]

So simple question. Can I pull the motor with the trans till attached?


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Yes, but pull the tcase first