Project - 1999 Jeep Cherokee Sport

[shelbybrowndog]

I just purchased a Red 1999 Cheep Cherokee Sport with 137k miles on it for cheap from my GFs parents. I knew there would be quite a lot of work to do, and I'm completely new to Jeeps. My brother has a sweet setup on his Wrangler, so I thought, what the heck... let me try this out and see if I can fix up a Cherokee and make it in to a sweet ride.

So... here's what needs to be done before I can do any mods:

1) The radiator is shot, I saw radiator fluid all over the ground after my first night with my new "project."
2) Obviously, with the radiator shot, and I presume the thermostat as well...I've got overheating issues.
3) The turn signals do NOT work at all, but the hazards do work. Strange thing is, the right front blinker and right rear tail lights are out, but work when the hazard is on....and the rear tail light works when the brake is engaged.
4) The passenger side window does not work...you can hear the motor running, but the window will not move.
5) The check engine light is on.
6) There is a ton of rust on the muffler, so I wonder if the O2 sensor is bad. I haven't been able to get under it because it's been raining (I don't have a garage and live in an apartment complex so I will have to do the work outside)...so I can't get under it yet to see how bad it is.
7) A/C is not working. Apparently, there is a hole in the hose for the A/C leaking free-on.
8) The interior is a trocious with the smell of wet dog, and dog hair all over. Custom jeep seats were put in, but unfortunately, the rear bench was torn to shreds by the dog.
9) There is rust on the wheels, not a good sign, but hopefully not another bad sign of what's underneath.

That's all I could think of that is wrong with it for now...keeping my fingers crossed because for the most part it looks pretty good and will be a fun beater car. I hope this forum will be a good venue to help me keep my project going.

[bluedragon436]

You definitely have what sounds like a project there.. I think you can make yourself a decent rig, with a little bit of work.. you can pull the rear seat, since it is already shredded.. and pull the front seats.. then hit up the carpet with a steam cleaner that you can rent if you don't already have one.. The rust on the muffler doesn't mean that the O2 sensor will be bad, but I would def get the code read for why your CEL is on, which most likely might be the O2 sensor, which are easy enough to replace anyways. When you change out the Radiator, I'd say go ahead change out the T-stat, water pump and both upper/lower radiator hoses while you are already there and have everything pulled out.. You don't have too, but can't hurt to do some preventative maintenance while you are in that area, and have more room to work on it. as far as the lights go, sounds like a bit of an electrical gremlin there... but might be some random relay or even the turn signal switch itself.. since I think a good majority of the lighting goes through that switch.. I know some more experienced folks will be chiming in shortly and get you up and running and enjoying your Jeep...

[4.3LXJ]

Rusty muffler doesn't mean anything. But if it has been sitting or neglected, change that O2 sensor anyway. You will have less problems with power and milage that way

[Brasscatz]

Welcome to the site! I'm real excited to see the progress you make on this!

[shelbybrowndog]

Thanks for your comments. I am now convinced that I need to change the water pump. Any thoughts on changing the timing belt as well? Here are the parts I ordered. I figured I'd go cheap as possible first to make sure I'm curing the symptoms before I go too crazy on purchasing a ton of parts only to find that it wasn't worth fixing this baby up. If anyone thinks I made bad choices or have a bad philosophy on budget, let me know...

FOUR SEASONS 85180 Thermostat Housing / Water Outlet $ 8.87 (Rockauto.com)
GATES 33508 Thermostat $ 2.73 (Rockauto.com)
Standard Motor Products EFL16 Flasher (turn signal relay) Automotive; $30.49 (amazon.com)
Jeep Cherokee Radiator 91-00 OEM Replacement AUTOMATIC TRANS Only $77.75 USD (ebay - sonicmotor.com)

[editedforsafety]

It hasa chain, not a belt. It's most likely fine, unless it's making noise.

[shelbybrowndog]

The turn signal switch fixed the turn signal issue. Right tailight and right parking light fixed. For some reason, the fuse was missing.

[XJ Wheeler]

Could be that they needed it for something more important urgently, but it could also be wiring issues. So be on the lookout, and carry extra fuses for now.

[nickxj94]

How bout some pics of this Xj? :D.

[Cheromaniac]

1) The radiator is shot, I saw radiator fluid all over the ground after my first night with my new "project."

Replace radiator, radiator hoses, thermostat, water pump, and heater hoses (including the hard line attached to the water pump)

3) The turn signals do NOT work at all, but the hazards do work. Strange thing is, the right front blinker and right rear tail lights are out, but work when the hazard is on....and the rear tail light works when the brake is engaged.

Try some synthetic blinker fluid. ;)

4) The passenger side window does not work...you can hear the motor running, but the window will not move.

The regulator is bad so you'll need to replace it. Fortunately it isn't too expensive.

5) The check engine light is on.

Get a free code scan at Autozone (if they still do them).

6) There is a ton of rust on the muffler, so I wonder if the O2 sensor is bad.

Probably better to replace the O2 sensor anyway. Sounds like you need new muffler bearings. ;)

7) A/C is not working. Apparently, there is a hole in the hose for the A/C leaking freon.

Replace hose and have AC system checked in case there are other leaks before you have it refilled with fresh freon.

[oderdene]

:smiley-laughing021::smiley-laughing021::smiley-laughing021:

Dino (Cheromaniac) will send synthetic blinker fluid and muffler bearing on request by PM, only after posting your XJ photos,

[shelbybrowndog]

sorry...that was dumb

[nickxj94]

1205

Nice!

[shelbybrowndog]

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So this thing is photogenic. The inside is so trashed by a dog. Couple of bumps and scratches...and RUST. Should I be concerned about rust on the axle?

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[4.3LXJ]

Nah, not unless the spring perches are rusted out

[shelbybrowndog]

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Where is the spring purch in this pic? Because I see a lot of rust by the wheel. For now I'm focused on getting this thing running right. Overheats easily, and is spewing radiator fluid. You can see the water damage on the radiator hoses from the engine pics shared earlier. But, when it comes time to lift it and put the wheels on it, I'm worried it will involve some serious investment in the axles etc.

[4.3LXJ]

Where the coil spring and shock mounts. Also check the track bar mount by the spring purch.

[shelbybrowndog]

My brother gave me his ODB scanner tool for me to see what the check engine light was about. It said no codes found, so I pushed the erase button and the check engine light is now gone. Strange that it didn't find any codes...I purchased a new O2 sensor anyway and will replace it.

[4.3LXJ]

There might have been codes stored, but not currently running. Some code readers make the distinction

[shelbybrowndog]

Yeah, this code reader is a generic one. In NJ, I think you fail automatically your inspection if the check engine light is on. I'm hoping I pass if I take it this Saturday assuming it stays off, and the emissions is fine.

[4.3LXJ]

Ron, make sure you drive it enough before you go. If you clear the light and go too soon it will fail

[shelbybrowndog]

I took it on the highway and it shook like crazy when I got it to 60 mph. I tightened the bolts on this bar that appeared to be in front of the axle. Read some stuff about replacing the Steering stabilizer?

[4.3LXJ]

Steering wheel shaking now?

[shelbybrowndog]

It wasn't the steering wheel, it was more like when I got on the highway and got to 60 mph and hit a bump or something, the whole front end sorta started to wobble. I guess I experienced death wobble I've been reading about. Perhaps it needs an alignment as well. The steering wheel is off i.e. it slightly at 1 o'clock when I'm going straight

[4.3LXJ]

OK, first step. Alignment and balance.

[Brasscatz]

^^^ agreed. My wife just got new tires on her Jeep and the weights all fell off the front. Wheel shook like a wet dog in Alaska. Got it re-balanced and all good to go!

[shelbybrowndog]

Ok, we are getting slammed with snow in the Northeast, so I couldn't resist the urge to go to an empty parking lot to make sure the 4WD works on this project car as well as do some sick donuts. I still have a nasty leaking radiator, so I made it a short ride. Thanks to the white snow on the ground I found a new slow leak. I can see red fluid...apparently transmission fluid. I know this because I splattered steering fluid on the snow and its definitely a light brown...then splattered the tranny dip stick in the snow and its red in color. Looks like a slow leak and when I checked the transmission fluid, didn't look like it's that low. Please tell me it's just going to be a leak correlated with a bad radiator. The leak seems to be near the front, but hard to say since is running down the engine shield. I'm hoping this will just be a hose fix and will present itself when I get the radiator out this spring.

[prcjeep]

Ok, we are getting slammed with snow in the Northeast, so I couldn't resist the urge to go to an empty parking lot to make sure the 4WD works on this project car as well as do some sick donuts. I still have a nasty leaking radiator, so I made it a short ride. Thanks to the white snow on the ground I found a new slow leak. I can see red fluid...apparently transmission fluid. I know this because I splattered steering fluid on the snow and its definitely a light brown...then splattered the tranny dip stick in the snow and its red in color. Looks like a slow leak and when I checked the transmission fluid, didn't look like it's that low. Please tell me it's just going to be a leak correlated with a bad radiator. The leak seems to be near the front, but hard to say since is running down the engine shield. I'm hoping this will just be a hose fix and will present itself when I get the radiator out this spring.

Our XJ's are extremely prone to overheating... I was able to solve mine by replacing the radiator, water pump and thermostat housing. If the hoses aren't leaking they wont cause overheating by themselves but prob good to replace them anyways due to age. When you get your new lower radiator hose make sure it has the spring inside of it or take yours out and install it in the new one.
Its possible that since you are in the rust belt you could have "freeze plugs that have pin hole leaks in them too. They're not to hard to replace, just a pain to get to.

[shelbybrowndog]

So you think the tranny leak is correlated to the radiator? I hope so...and it does suck to be in the rust belt. I'm nervous when it comes time to lift it...I'm going to find excessive rust issues. I think I'm going to go play in the snow again. Fortunately, this isn't my DD.

[shelbybrowndog]

I was finally able to change the radiator, the thermostat, water pump, and thermostat housing. I only changed the radiator hoses. Big problem. It was dark by the time I finished, but I can see a stream of what looks to be transmission fluid hitting my axle and differential. Can't see where the source is just yet because its dark. Since its coming from the front shooting toward the axle I assume it's the transmission line going in to the radiator. Is changing the transmission line easy? I hear this line only goes to the radiator in automatics.

[XJ Wheeler]

Probably something easy like a misaligned o-ring or not tight enough. Did you bend the lines or anything?

[shelbybrowndog]

Pretty sure I didn't bend anything. Novice here...if it is an O ring, what's involved with that? Also, can you tell me what kind of transmission fluid to buy? Also, even though I've got everything replaced, the heat doesn't work?

[Mudderoy]

I was finally able to change the radiator, the thermostat, water pump, and thermostat housing. I only changed the radiator hoses. Big problem. It was dark by the time I finished, but I can see a stream of what looks to be transmission fluid hitting my axle and differential. Can't see where the source is just yet because its dark. Since its coming from the front shooting toward the axle I assume it's the transmission line going in to the radiator. Is changing the transmission line easy? I hear this line only goes to the radiator in automatics.

I believe you can just cut it at the leak, then take some fuel line and a couple of hose clamps and leak will be taken care of.

Oh I'm assuming the leak is somewhere along the length of the line, and not at a fitting. Now if it's at a fitting you can do the same thing on the transmission side. If you can find the leak then post a picture, it would be easier to advise you.

[XJ Wheeler]

Pretty sure I didn't bend anything. Novice here...if it is an O ring, what's involved with that? Also, can you tell me what kind of transmission fluid to buy? Also, even though I've got everything replaced, the heat doesn't work?

The o-ring goes inside a fitting to aid in sealing a connection to keep it from leaking. Just disconnect the line and look for one on either the radiator side or inside the fitting. Autoparts stores carry a small variety pack, cheap and always a good thing to have. Put one appropriately sized and retighten.

But before you go to that trouble check to see if its leaking around the connections. If not there, look for the originating point. Usually higher as fluid drains with gravity.

[shelbybrowndog]

Found the pinhole leak now that we finally have some sun in the NE. It's shooting out of the metal part of the transmission line so I will be doing the cutting suggestion and clamping some rubber transmission/oil line tubing I bought. Thanks for the suggestion. Next up for the project:
1) Passenger side door needs new regulator, but has a significant amount of rust...Should I just try to find a new door?
2) AC/Heat both not working
3) Need to fix up interior and attempt to try to re-sew torn custom leather rear bench seat the dog tore up
4) I want to put a rough country 4.5 inch lift on this thing, but after finally getting under this thing, (as mentioned before) there is some serious corosion/rust underneath which I know is common in Jeeps. Should I at least spray rustoleum or something to slow the rust down? It is so rusty, the shocks look like a wrinkled old lady. I figured since the RC lift kit comes with everything, I would essentially be replacing all the mess. Just worried stuff will start turning to dust as I'm attempting to remove stuff. I will try to post pics another time.
5) Not bothering with alignment if I'm lifting it and putting new wheels and tires eventually.
6) Also, I accidentally broke that plastic cover around the fan on the passenger side when I was ripping out the fan/front end when I was changing the radiator. I didn't have a tork screw driver tool, so I just took out the nuts connected to the front grille. I must have broken the plastic fan cover squeezing it out the hard way. Anybody think it's necessary for me to replace that plastic cover thingy?

[4.3LXJ]

Yeah, better replace it. The XJ cooling system needs all the help it can get

[XJ Wheeler]

If the door has a good bit of rust and needs a regulator, i would suggest just replacing it if you can find one for a decent price.

My XJ came from the NE so if its like mine i would have access to a torch before you start installing the lift. But for sure start hitting every nut and bolt with penetrating lube for a while in advance, maybe, a week.

Yup, fan shroud is a good piece to have.

[shelbybrowndog]

Ah crap. Figures the piece I thought would be minimal turns out to be important.

[shelbybrowndog]

This jeep needs a tune up. Any recommendations on plugs wires and distributor?

[Brasscatz]

As far as plugs go, These Jeeps seem to prefer plain ol' Champion Copper plugs. I think the wires are just fine with OEM replacements.

[shelbybrowndog]

Ok, heat is working now. It wasn't working b/c I didn't put enough freaking radiator fluid in there...how stupid. Right now, I put silicon tape where the pinhole leak is and it seems to be working. However, don't think this will last long. Can someone please elaborate on the "cutting at the leak" instruction? Do I cut a section out and clamp some hose to fill the cut section on both sides....or do I just cut at the hole and bend the line a little to "sneak" the rubber fuel hose at the cut at the leak then clamp on both sides?

[4.3LXJ]

Yup, cut the leak out and patch with a hose

[shelbybrowndog]

I decided to change the rotor and the distributor cap...wires are in the right place....but now it's idlinng bad. I took the battery off thinking maybe the computer needs to be reset. Restarted and still sounded like crap. Attempted to drive a bit, and it drove like crap.

While I was taking the old one off the one bolt was badly coroded and broke on me. I tried to zip tie that side for now. Could that be the problem?

Guess I will try to put the old one back on and see what happens

[4.3LXJ]

You talking about the bolt that holds the cap on?

[shelbybrowndog]

yeah...sucks. I tried to PB it and use a lock wrench. No luck. guess i gotta wait for my brother to bring his drill to get the coroded bolt out. What a pain in the ass. I thought maybe it would be fine with one bolt, but I guess when it shook, it brought the cap out of line. When I opened it up again, I saw that the rotor dug in to the side of the distributor cap. That's why it was idling so crappy and drove so crappy. Also, I couldn't get the darn wires off. I went to Autozone to get a whatever the tool is to get the wires out, but they didn't have it and didn't know what it's called. Double damn, I spent 40 bucks on the roter and cap together...what a waste...and now since they are busted I spent another 40 bucks.

[4.3LXJ]

Tough break man

[shelbybrowndog]

My brother and I ghetto rigged the distributor cap and it started like a charm! Hopefully, this ghetto rig will work for a while because I broked the F-ing extractor in the bolt and it will take days for me to drill it out. Put in the new fan shroud as suggested before, new thermostat, new thermostat housing, new water pump, and new radiator. Saw a special online for high mileage oil (not sure if it makes a diff) and changed the oil. There is still a slight squeaking sound which seems to be coming from the bottom wheel where the belt is...any ideas what that's about? Before the sqeaking seemed to come from the water pump, but there is a slight squeak now coming from this area.

[shelbybrowndog]

RIgged cap.

[shelbybrowndog]

New Radiator shroud as advised, water pump, thermostat, and thermostat housing.

[shelbybrowndog]

Can anyone tell me how to replace a front wheel stud? I ended up having to drill off a lug.

[Brasscatz]

Here ya go good buddy

How to Replace Lug Nut Studs : Preparing a New Lug Nut Stud Surface - YouTube

[4.3LXJ]

Knock the old one out with a punch and BFH. Get the new one started in and use a lug nut to pull it all the way through.

[Mudderoy]

Knock the old one out with a punch and BFH. Get the new one started in and use a lug nut to pull it all the way through.

I bet an air chisel would make short work of it, just be careful or you'll be replacing the entire unit bearing. :cop:

[shelbybrowndog]

So...how do I take the brake off and the caliper? I'm concerned about the rust again...and having yet another bolt break or something bad. The distributor cap and this freaking lug nut has my confidence down. (Reminder: never worked on cars before other thang changing oil and wiper blades) Ha!

[4.3LXJ]

There are two bolts on the back side of the caliper. The caliper slides on a tube on the outside of these bolts. These shouldn't be rusted too much. They are very protected

[shelbybrowndog]

Here is the latest photo of my project Jeep and what's up with the sway bar being disconnected from this thing? Must be contributing to the death wobble? I haven't gotten the alignment done yet and I know the steering stabilizer is shot. Look at the rust on it. Even taking off the fender flairs, the bolts just snapped off. Guess I will buy a case of PB. I bought a rough country 4.5 lift so I figured the kit would replace the connection to the sway bar anyway? Also purchased a new steering stabilizer as well. Hoping putting the new lift will replace all the old and rusted crap.

[4.3LXJ]

Yeah, a bit rusty, but the body sure looks nice though

[shelbybrowndog]

I should probably just flip it with the amount of rust and probably made a bad call buying this thing...but I will play with it first. If anything, it was good to learn on. This thing is actually just very photogenic as there is quite a bit of rust on the body below the rear driver door. I pretty much knocked it all out and will start thinking about pricing it out for a body shop....if I feel its worth it. Also, I haven't shown pics of the rust on the pasenger side front door. But generally speaking, I suppose its a sharp looking one.

[XJ Wheeler]

Yeah, a set of disconnects. fix that up. If its a street driven jeep i suggest getting them attached. When you do the lift you could install them.

Just a thought. Whenever i get to a point where there's a project i either don't have the tools for or the knowhow i think how much it would cost to have someone fix it. Then i figure how much it would be to buy the tools and learn to do it myself. A lot of times you can buy the tools for less than having someone do it, especially body work. Then you have the tools and knowhow for next time. Rake in the savings!

[shelbybrowndog]

I'm installing the lift kit at my brothers house. The problem is he lives an hour away so I will be on highways. Is there anything I can do to temporarily attach the sway bar before I bring the jeep on the road? I suppose I could irritate NYC traffic by driving just under 50 mph the whole way there.:cry:

[Brasscatz]

You don't need the sway bar to drive. You'll want to take it easy around corners because it'll handle differently, but there's a LOT of people that don't have sway bars at all.

[shelbybrowndog]

Should I worry about death wobble at 50 mph? I put on 31 inch tires without the lift. Perhaps that isn't helping the wobble. I will put the stock wheels back on to see if it helps make a difference

[4.3LXJ]

You can drive without it. I don't have one since I put in a bomb proof trac bar. But working on it. It will just sway more, but drivable. You just cannot pretend you are at La Mans

[4.3LXJ]

Should I worry about death wobble at 50 mph? I put on 31 inch tires without the lift. Perhaps that isn't helping the wobble. I will put the stock wheels back on to see if it helps make a difference

The first thing you need to do is align it afterwards. That in itself can cause death wobble

[shelbybrowndog]

I'm working on putting my 4.5 inch Rough Country Lift kit my my rusty 1999 XJ this weekend. The first thing I've learned about this Jeep is the rust issues. I'm anticipating trouble...therefore can anyone tell me what size bolts etc. I will possibly need to replace in the upper and lower control arms, track bar bolts for both ends, rear leaf spring bolts, and shock mount bolts.

[shelbybrowndog]

Rear leaf eye bolts on both driver side and passenger side front and back got stuck. My bro and I had to cut layer by layer to salvage the bolts. Of course no store, Autozone/Home Depot had the 4th bolt we ended up having to cut. These are pics from two days of work. Only got one of the new leafs on the passenger side. Noticed the leaf was shorter than the distance between the rear shackle and the frame. WTF. My bro had to use a pry bar to push it forward enough to reach. Hope when we can put weight on it, the shackle goes back where it belongs (toward the rear bumper)

It took us hours to cut because of the rust. Even the head bolt holding the shock on the driver side snapped. We are thinking to create a new pilot hole for the shock on the driver side. RC makes it look so easy to install their kits in videos.

Making me second guess buying this project jeep, but maybe it will pay off in the end.
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[XJ Wheeler]

Its just one of those drawbacks to modifying a vehicle. Its not just you, so don't feel too bad. Hope its lookin up soon for ya. Just mentally picture it once its lifted, and music to wrench with helps. :D

[XjJeepacorn]

Looks like we have the same jeep ;) mines even rusty too! I did the leafs 2 years ago so hopefully the bolts won't be welded to the nuts :) good luck

[shelbybrowndog]

Finally, encouraging progress. We learned not to bother to try to loosen anything without laying a torch on it. However, this is a 4.5 inch lift. Look how freaking high it is. I guess it will settle once we finish the front? We will try jumping up and down on the back to see if it drops a little. Perhaps I will put on some big ass tires on.

[XJ Wheeler]

The rear should settle some after you put some miles on it.

[shelbybrowndog]

Even though I'm not done the lift yet, I picked up a passenger side door for 60 bucks. Can anyone tell me how to remove and install it? The door is black. Anyone think I should paint he whole thing black or keep it chilli pepper red?

[4.3LXJ]

There are two bolts on each hinge. Remove the and save the shims. Put the new door in place with the bolts loose and install the shims in the same position and tighten the bolts. If the door latch doesn't line up right, loosen the bolts and swap some of the shims around until it lines up.

[shelbybrowndog]

Is there maybe a few more steps? I have power windows and mirrors.

[4.3LXJ]

Does the new door have them?

[shelbybrowndog]

Yes

[4.3LXJ]

You just need to unplug the wiring harness, plug will be under the panel. You will probably have to remove it. Two phillips screws.

[shelbybrowndog]

Do I need to remove the locks or something so my key will work?

[4.3LXJ]

Yes, you will have to do that if you want it keyed. You will have to remove the panels. There is a clip that holds the lock cylinder in. Also you will have to unhook the rod from it. It rotates and then the rod will pull out.

[XjJeepacorn]

Finally, encouraging progress. We learned not to bother to try to loosen anything without laying a torch on it. However, this is a 4.5 inch lift. Look how freaking high it is. I guess it will settle once we finish the front? We will try jumping up and down on the back to see if it drops a little. Perhaps I will put on some big ass tires on.

He/she's lookin good ;)

[shelbybrowndog]

I can't get the torx style wrench in there to get the darn door off. Also, do I take apart the panelling where the fuse box is somehow to disconnect the harness?

[shelbybrowndog]

New addons from Craigs list - Painted the new door, but can't get the old one off.

[shelbybrowndog]

Had another set back. When we went to remove the track bar, the nut on the bracket was frozen. We thought if we cut it, we could use a BFH to push it through. That didn't work so we got a buddy to torch the head of the bolt off. Problem is, the hole is now too big for the new track bar. Too much play. Now we have to buy a new bracket where the track bar goes above the pumpkin. Can't find a new stock one, but there seems to be after market brackets, but I don't know what will fit the rough country track bar (not sure hole size for the track bar bolt thingy). The only good thing that happened was the torch guy was able to burn those torx screws off the door so I could get that damn door off. Will install the door at least since we couldn't finish the front of the lift. We have now spent five work days doing this lift. (and counting). It's a shame I need to sell this thing at the end because my company is relocating to FL.

[shelbybrowndog]

Pix of door removal and bracket for upper part of track bar described in earlier post.

[shelbybrowndog]

My brother found out we can replace the track bar bracket with an upgraded bracket from Rough Country...but we also need the Heim joint end. Don't know what that is, but glad he does.

[shelbybrowndog]

Got a deal on 33x12.5 r16 Nitto Mud grapplers to fill the gap. Looking forward to add them.

[shelbybrowndog]

After several sessions, we finished the lift....but I guess we let the axle hang down too far, so now the brake line broke at the metal part of the line. It's shooting out brake fluid when the brakes are compressed. Guess we will have to have it towed to a shop. We couldn't test drive it to see if there was any shaking or alignment issues...etc. Also mounted the new door, and while I know the painting wasn't going to match, the bigger issue is, we couldn't adjust it to fit just right. Its sort of too far forward so when you open it, bends in the fender and isn't quite flush. I can't open the back door either. It mashes in to the back part of the front door. We tried to "shimmy" it by using washers to try to adjust it. Really a pain to get it lined up. Assistance would be appreciated.

[shelbybrowndog]

Photos of door issues.

[Brasscatz]

hmmm... could be that the door is bent or maybe the hinges are bent slightly...

[shelbybrowndog]

Ok, the brake line set back, charging of AC unit with dye in it, removal of frozen bolts so I can put on the quick release bolts for the sway bar, and installation of all brake lines cost me 630 bucks! Set back in terms of my limited budget! The only massive issue is the alignment and I know you guys have told me in previous postings I needed to get it done. Unfortunately, the guy who did all the work listed above said his alignment guy won't touch the job because of all the after market suspension work. And besides, I know this is going to add another 200 bucks to my budget. The alignment is so bad, the jeep goes all over the place when at 40 mph. Also, my brother said he can hear a grinding noise. Perhaps it's the angle of the drive shaft because of the lift? I'm sure I'm going to have to spend an arm and a leg on installing a new drive shaft and alignment? Maybe I can fix the alignment issue myself? Can anyone share instructional video? This way I can save money for the drive shaft and install. Looks way too rusty for me to do the job myself....and I'm way over budget this is all going to have to wait. Sucks!

[shelbybrowndog]

By the way, I know everyone called these jeep projects "Just Empty Every Pocket" but damn it, I wish I could have gotten addicted to crack instead. Would have been cheaper.

[4.3LXJ]

By the way, I know everyone called these jeep projects "Just Empty Every Pocket" but damn it, I wish I could have gotten addicted to crack instead. Would have been cheaper.

Yeah, but you would not have a nose :rolleye0012:

So get your pipe wrench out and do some alignment yourself. You can get it close. There are two adjustments on the linkage. First is the toe in. Get it loose. Then measure outside to outside on the same type of tread lugs front and rear. The front measurement should be about 1/8" less than the rear measurement. When you get that, there is an adjustment on the drag link that works the same. Lengthen it, drive it and do it again until your steering wheel is straight. You might need to also adjust your steering box. It takes a 5/8" wrench and an allen wrench. Loosen the nut and screw in the allen until there is no hesitation in the pitman arm when the steering wheel is turned back and forth. Don't over tighten.

[2WDUnderachiever]

If you're worried about spending too much for an alignment, give it to your local high school's autotech class to do an alignment on... It's probably cheap and I'm sure the teacher checks over it in order to embarrass the students when they mess up.

[abebehrmann]

Do you have a Hayne's or Chilton Manual for your XJ? One of the best investments I've ever made for any of the vehicles I've owned was purchasing a $20 Haynes Manual. The one for the XJ isn't perfect but if you read closely enough you should be able to fix just about anything on your Jeep. Alternatively, or in addition to the Haynes/Chilton manual, check out this website for FREE online repair manuals!
<http://www.jeep4x4center.com/knowledge-base/index.htm#service?utm_source=cj>

[Mudderoy]

By the way, I know everyone called these jeep projects "Just Empty Every Pocket" but damn it, I wish I could have gotten addicted to crack instead. Would have been cheaper.

:smiley-laughing021:

[prcjeep]

PM me your email address and i can send you a pdf 98 FSM for "viewing use" only.

[abebehrmann]

PM me your email address and i can send you a pdf 98 FSM for "viewing use" only.

You wouldn't happen to have one for a 99 would you? :pray::D

[prcjeep]

me? no... but ive used the 98 one for my 96 several times and its all pretty much the same... especially 98 to 99... should be exactly the same

[shelbybrowndog]

I changed my alternator yesterday, but have no clue how tight the serpentine belt needs to be. How tight and do I need a special tool to be accurate? Wasn't expecting the alternator to go bad but I think when the radiator was leaking it hit the alternator, also got the AC working so it could have loaded it.

[Brasscatz]

There is a tensionor tool, but you can do it without. I would get it nice and tight and use your finger to push down on the belt on the top of the motor where its longest span is and you should have some play but not more than an inch or so. Test it out, if it squeals, tighten it up a smidge and repeat until done. The other option is to get the tool, and I'm sure somebody on here can give you the tension specs.

[shelbybrowndog]

Latest pics of the project. Just need to fix the door and alignment. It drives all over the place right now.

[4.3LXJ]

How noisy are those tires Ron

[XJ Wheeler]

Lookin gooooooooddd!!!

Sent via messenger pigeon - i talk, he types.

[Brasscatz]

There's just something AWESOME about a RED Jeep! Those tires look NASTY man! What kind are they?

[shelbybrowndog]

Nitto mud grapplers, I can't get my jeep up to 40 mph because the alignment so I can't comment on road noise, but my brother just put these on his JK and he said they are Loud. Sounds like an airplane landing he said. They are surprisingly smooth on the road. Apparently there is a YouTube video of someone driving on these at 50mph and you can hear them a mile away. Needless to say I'm going for aggressive as opposed to comfort. My daily driver is a rocket, but this may be more frequently in my rotation. I will check back in when I'm finally able to do the alignment and fix that annoying door. I may camo this thing or turn it into a pumpkin (orange)

[shelbybrowndog]

I tried using my AC today in traffic and suddenly the jeep overheated. Electric fan? Fuse in the engine by the battery?

[Mudderoy]

I tried using my AC today in traffic and suddenly the jeep overheated. Electric fan? Fuse in the engine by the battery?

Mine was up to 234 last Thursday, I think it was close or at 100 degrees out. I turned off the A/C and rolled down the windows. Coolant temp dropped to 215 then cycled between 215 and 224 the rest of the way home, another 7 or 8 miles. It takes about 12 miles for it to get up around 225.

[shelbybrowndog]

Darn...guess there is no fix? Also, even though I had the AC charged, it wasn't cool at all, must have leaked. I'm relocating to FL...No AC = swamp arse. BTW, it was only 83 outside, I was just testing it.

[Mudderoy]

Darn...guess there is no fix? Also, even though I had the AC charged, it wasn't cool at all, must have leaked. I'm relocating to FL...No AC = swamp arse. BTW, it was only 83 outside, I was just testing it.

lol swap ass...

[Mudderoy]

I tried using my AC today in traffic and suddenly the jeep overheated. Electric fan? Fuse in the engine by the battery?

Electric fan should switch on with the A/C compressor. Should be easy to check to make sure that is happening. A/C seems to heat up the cooling system pretty good. I think it's the heat from the condenser in front of the radiator that does it.

[shelbybrowndog]

Yep, I checked with my mechanic friends. Without even testing it...we pushed on the fan to see if it would spin freely, but it's frozen/stiff. It should spin on its own when pushed. Replacing the fan.

[shelbybrowndog]

ok, replaced electric fan...charged the AC...and all is working. At first I thought the compressor was bad, but since there was apparently ZERO R134 in the system, the compressor will not engage because the sensor inside will not engage the spinning thing on the outside of the compressor unless it detects enough R134 in the system. It's working now, but no clue where the leak is even though there is dye in the system. Now I'm trying to find an off road bumper...any suggestions? Oh and for those who asked about the tires...uh yeah...loud...sounds like a prop plane when I get up to 55 mph. But it looks awesome. Also, I haven't taken it on a trail yet. Looking forward to taking it to PA, but figure I should have a bumper and winch.

[shelbybrowndog]

I took the project jeep to the infamous Rausch Creek in central PA this Sunday...Rainy labor day weekend. It was awesome...my first time offroading. Had an education on where I need to do some trimming as well as learning about a broken rear sway bar link. After learning about the sway bar link break...learned the smallest leaf on the rear driver side some how shifted and was no longer parallel with the rest of the leaf, which dug in to the inner side wall of my tire...double damn. Still had an awesome time. Is it necessary for me to fix the rear sway bar link? I ended up tightening the u-bolts and zip tied and taped around the smallest leaf for now to keep it from eating my tire.

[Dredwolf]

Ron,

A lot people remove the rear sway bar completely on their XJ. My own is long gone, and I would have removed it if the PO had not already done so.

I like having a front sway bar for highway travel, but on previous vehicles, the rear sway bar did not seem to help so much, and really interfered with rear axle articulation, so I pulled them.

[4.3LXJ]

You won't notice it being gone.

[shelbybrowndog]

So if the rear sway bar is no biggie, did tightening the u-bolt solve the spring leaf issue? Would hate to lose my very expensive tire.

[shelbybrowndog]

Here are photos of the potential cause of the rear sway bar link break as well as my trimming issues. Any instructions on trimming?

[bluedragon436]

I would say for both of those you'd probably be alright with some added bumpstops... as far as the front bumper you could always take the end cap off and trim the bumper itself if you choose or feel the need too!!

[abebehrmann]

About the leafspring, fast forward to about 8:15 in the video. <http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7KUa-6rdSQs&feature=fvwrel>

[shelbybrowndog]

I took my Jeep to a shop to do the alignment. They found that the wheel bearing and ball joint was bad on the driver side and will eventually need replacement on the right side. ($500 bucks eeek!) Are there aftermarket parts worth getting that are better than OEM? Just curious because I already let them do the work on the driver side, but want to know if I should have gone aftermarket. I also had them remove the sway bar.

[EricT93]

Good looking jeep!

[shelbybrowndog]

Can anyone tell me how to change the power steering hose?

[cantab27]

found this but its for a older xj

How to change a Powersteering hose - YouTube

[abebehrmann]

If I remember correctly, I think a stubby 18mm wrench would come in handy for the fittings on the steering box. I did mine with a normal sized wrench, and I wished I had the stubby kind.

[XJ Wheeler]

The pressure hose? If so, i recommend removing the airbox and e-fan to really make some room to move around. I ended up buying a set of flare nut wrenches just for this job and suggest doing the same. It was necessary for me to do so, although it may not be the case for you.

Most cases, and mine was no different, end up with the removal of the old line by breaking/cutting the line at the ends cause the nut on the hose is seized to the tubing and wants to twist up anyways. Check/replace the o-rings and install the new hose. Then make sure to bleed the pump.

Sent via messenger pigeon - i talk, he types.

[shelbybrowndog]

Anyone know why my electric fan goes on and off at idle? My buddy told AC clutch fan will not enguage if there is no r-134, and the electric fan will turn on when clutch fan engages. But it's 40 degrees in the north east. I have the heat on, is it correlated to the electric fan even though I'm not using AC? Also wonder if the on and off electric fan has to do with slight fluxuation of idle?

[XJ Wheeler]

Is the defrost on when this is happening? Not sure if it comes on when the defrost is on heat, but i know it does when the defrost is on cold. Other than that it would be the temp getting high enough to switch it... that would be normal operation anyways.

The fluctuation in idle... is it just when the fan comes on and cuts off? If so, that's normal because these fans draw quite a large amount at start up. So, the fluctuation is the alternator/motor trying to recover from the sudden draw.

Sent via messenger pigeon - i talk, he types.

[Carves]

Demister setting usually involves the AC for better/quicker, windscreen clearing.

Try changing the outlet setting, to floor or dash vents and see what happens.

[shelbybrowndog]

Next question...I'm getting the 0455 code. I saw a lot of postings about this code...did the new gas cap but it didn't solve it. So since I'm a novice, can someone show me pictures or diagrams on how to follow the line that causes this code? I'm sure there is a rubber connect somewhere that has rotted or for that matter if there is a metal line in emission system, I'm sure it's corroded from being in the rust belt.

[Mudderoy]

I bet you'll have to drop the tank to get to that hose. I read some where that you're not supposed to reuse the straps, but I found that out after reusing my straps on the 98. you might want to just check rock auto, a vendor here, and replace the hose, vent tube, etc...

[shelbybrowndog]

decided to let a shop do my P0455 work. They found a corroded line from my engine to the canister. They also sited a small leak at the head gasket. Nice $300 spend. Oh well, wanted everything working for a wheeling trip to Rausch Creek over turkey day

[bluedragon436]

Glad to hear you got it all figured out and working correctly before the RC trip...

[shelbybrowndog]

Can anybody tell me how to wire a cb? I got a Cobra for my BDay

[XJ Wheeler]

I use a lighter plug type setup, so I've never done it. But i would think its just like wiring a set of lights.

Sent via messenger pigeon - i talk, he types.

[Brasscatz]

Can anybody tell me how to wire a cb? I got a Cobra for my BDay


I use a lighter plug type setup, so I've never done it. But i would think its just like wiring a set of lights.

Sent via messenger pigeon - i talk, he types.

Yep, that's the only type of CB I've ever used, lighter plug. Now, just like wiring a new CD player, you would run a fused wire to switched power and another to a ground. Can you take a picture of your wire harness and post it up?

[4.3LXJ]

Mudderoy would be the guy to ask. He is the radio guru

[Mudderoy]

Can anybody tell me how to wire a cb? I got a Cobra for my BDay

If you mean power, take the time to run the power lines to the battery. Make sure you use adequate sized wire and that it is fused. You'll be happier in the long run. With 4 watts out any lose you get from a marginal connection under the dash or to a cig lighter well you can actually see the lights dim on some installations.

If you're more concerned about receive than transmit and you plan on moving the rig between vehicles, then the cig lighter may be the way to go.

For antenna wiring, you'll just want some RG-58 50 ohm coax, or you might consider the mini-8 (RG-8) is it's big brother. A nice 3 foot fiberglass whip should be good enough for the trail and smokey reports on the highway.

Just remember to mount it to a place that has a excellent ground, and the antenna isn't very close to the body. Metal reflects radio signals and that means it goes back into your CB, which we've all learned is the same thing that happens when you have a high SWR. :D

[shelbybrowndog]

next weird thing....when I hit my brakes, the odometer and the radio goes dim. I check my ground wire on the battery and the terminal seem fine. I will check the alternator too and ground wire on the engine. Last time I went off roading, I didn't bother washing off the mud and I drove in a snow storm last night, so I wonder if it is drawing power when I hit the brakes.

[shelbybrowndog]

This could be the answer to my strange dimming problem. Will try this solution and let everyone know.


Quote:
The front corner park lights also will also light up each time I press the brakes... this is so weird!

Quote:
you could also have a bulb that has failed such that it is backfeeding . . .

Yes, it's not an uncommon problem. The rear stop (brake) and tail lights are actually two separate filaments inside the same bulb. Filaments usually fail by breaking, leaving a loose end that can drop down onto the other filament. If power is then applied to one of the filaments, such as the stop light, some power can go through the broken piece to the other filament, which is the tail light. The tail light filament connects to all four corner parking (clearance) lights, so they will also seem to come on. In some cases, the dash control lights (radio, heater) will come on as well. They might be dim.

start by checking or just replacing the two rear stop/tail lights. Probably one is faulty.

[mudslut]

it needs a big lift and some 35sssssss

[shelbybrowndog]

Good point, 4.5 lift with 33s doesn't cut it anymore. Must have more....

[shelbybrowndog]

So changing all the bulbs didn't fix that weird dimming when I hit the brakes. Anyone know what ground wires to check?

[4.3LXJ]

I have had to start regrounding each light individually

[shelbybrowndog]

ok, finally. The dimming symptom on my radio and odometer stopped and then I noticed that the parking light was not working. There short in the system must have finally gone in full effect because I had no idea which light was causing issues since everything was working. I knew the bulb was good because I replaced all of the bulbs in the circuit (i.e. the parking bulbs on the front and both rear). I even took the good bulb from the driver side which I know both filiaments work...parking and brake. I cut the black wire which I assumed was the ground. Then I cut the brown wire which must be the power for the parking lights. With the brake pressed, I touched the black wire to the brown, and interestingly the parking filament turned on. So, that made me rule out that the black wire (ground) was still good. I ended up just taking some wire and ran it from the brown wire to the driver side and spliced in to the brown wire. Finally, both brake lights and tail lights on both sides now work. But to me, this is a ghetto way to fix it. Is there a right way to fix this?

[4.3LXJ]

If I had a short I couldn't find easily that is what I would do. Works for me

[shelbybrowndog]

Help! I have a loud squeaking noise coming from the driver side which seems like it's under the air box or power steering pump. Fluids all look good. At the same time my freakin dome light will not turn off. I checked all the doors and the pins are fine. Where is the pin on the rear hatch? Also I read somewhere it could be the sensor in the steering wheel causing that? Help and thanks

[shelbybrowndog]

Also, before all this happened the rear parking lights wouldn't turn off

[4.3LXJ]

Probably the headlight switch. Try turning the nob and see if it shuts off. If not, time for a new one I think. Is the squeal only while moving?

[shelbybrowndog]

Squeal at start now. Started as a off an on thing literally pulling up to a mcdonalds drive thru to non stop. I unplugged the battery. Also had a check engine light that went away on its own, but when I had it checked it was possibly NSS related. Also checked the headlight non and it's not turned to make the dome turn on. New switch needed? Where and how? Is that like he turn signal switch I replaced under the steering wheel?

[4.3LXJ]

Head light switch. About $18. It has a rheostat in it that sounds like it is permanently on. I am saying this is the fix based on your comment on the park lights staying on. Is the serpentine belt tight enough?

[shelbybrowndog]

I think there is a bad ground in the rear hatch. The windshield wiper in the back won't turn off and now realize the loud sound was the wiper fluid pump because the washer fluid was empty and the rear washer fluid was shooting. I'm a novice and literally did all my own work based on these forums. Will drop off at shop unless you guys know how to fix the ground which is causing my my electrical grief.

[shelbybrowndog]

Lots of electrical gremlins. This time dome light, radio, and gauge cluster all not working. The fix was to change the 15 amp fuse in the box under the hood, it was the mini fuse furthest to the bottom right.

[shelbybrowndog]

Relocating to FL in 2 months. Anyone know of trails I can go on considering I'm used to the rock climbs of Rausch Creek in PA? Driving up with my bro to MA to a place called "The Farm." Riding with his club "Jonfund." Perhaps there is a Jeep club I can join in Southwest FL? Also, I'm going to put on a RC winch bumper with Stinger bar and finally get a winch. I guess my jeep will be full of RC product as it's the cheapest and I feel you get the most for you $$. Then I'm putting on the flat style bushwhacker flares....and while in FL assuming labor is cheaper than good ole expensive NY/North Jersey....I will get him repainted. Decided my jeep is a boy and so is my garage queen.

[shelbybrowndog]

One more thing, as a novice, little patience, does all upgrades and fixes using Google, and small attention span to detail, I did the quarter panel fold in the back. Being that everyone else makes it look so simple and clean, mine had a few spaces I bet mud and water would get in to, so I bought the 3M Bondo stuff with the mesh cloth and sealed as best I could the cracks/rust holes/crevices. Hope that should do the trick. Also, the electrical nightmare I was having described in the thread above, was the result of rusted out 1/4 panel that was allowing mud/water/salt water from snow to corrode the wires. Had to have it rewired. Figured the quarter fold would be the way to seal it from future issues with electrical wires.

[4.3LXJ]

Glad you got that sorted out Ron. That salt is always a killer

[abebehrmann]

I'm in Orlando, so not quite Southwest Florida, but within a few hours. I'm a member of the Orlando Jeep Club. There are quite a few members that live in that part of the state. Also, I found this list of Florida Jeep clubs that might help you out. http://clubs.jeepforum.com/State/Florida/

[shelbybrowndog]

Thought I'd share some photos from my wheeling trip in MA as well as document the evolution of my project jeep

[bluedragon436]

Your XJ has def transformed quite nicely Ron.. I think you'll miss the rock of RC from what I've seen folks talk about the wheeling online down in FL.. Too bad you aren't going to be towards the northern portion of FL, then I'd say hit up the trails up in GA if you don't find the wheeling type you like in FL, but if you are down south, that would be a heck of a ride.. But look forward to seeing further transformation of the XJ, and some wheeling pics/vids!!

[shelbybrowndog]

Also, does anyone think this is an issue? My passenger side quick disconnect to the sway bar seems to have bent the bracket it is attached to on the axle. It's possible I was messing around in the snow hitting snow banks without disconnecting the sway bar. I had to adjust the quick disconnect because now that the bracket is bent, it's a pain in the ass to put the sway bar back in the loop.

[bluedragon436]

My passenger side looked very similar to that after doing some playing around.. I was able to bend it back somewhat close to straight with a bit of effort and a huge pipe, while it was on a lift..

[shelbybrowndog]

Videos of learning how to wheel...and smashing the side of my door :-( going over a muddy rock
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=maVCZonC9LE&feature=em-upload_owner#action=share
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wptJnHgwQp0

[bluedragon436]

Both of those make me miss my 98 even more then I already do... and wish I had been able to build it a little bit more and make RC with it at least once... Hopefully my "new" XJ will make it there one day, once I can find the parts to get it going good again..

[Rocco83]

I love the random Guineas running around in the first vid.

[shelbybrowndog]

I like how I told my nephews that I was not videoing. Also, note to self...don't let niece's BF drive your rig....nah, he did ok.

[bluedragon436]

I like how I told my nephews that I was not videoing. Also, note to self...don't let niece's BF drive your rig....nah, he did ok.

Very very trusting I will say that!!!

[shelbybrowndog]

One more video of "The Farm" I did in Mass. Still learning how to edit go pro video, but my bro got some video of me getting winched up the side of a huge rock ledge. Really narrow trail and thankfully got thru damage free. After getting winched up the rock ledge and my back side completely submerged in water...I parked and decided to just ride along with my bro. Hopefully, more video to come.

http://youtu.be/XslPwmA0cfY

[shelbybrowndog]

Maybe it's time to sell got dinged worse than my jeep bills in divorce court

[shelbybrowndog]

The new front end of my jeep is pretty heavy, but bad ass. Anyone have anything to say about steel cable vs. rope winch? I guess you can say I've got all Rough Country parts because they are cheaper than the others, but so far I think I like the brand.

[4.3LXJ]

Looks good Ron. There are pros and cons of each. But I think synthetic wins unless rock crawling. It does't like being abraded.

[Brasscatz]

beautiful!

[bluedragon436]

Maybe it's time to sell got dinged worse than my jeep bills in divorce court

Don't do it... Trust me, if there is nothing I regret out of my divorce, was selling my XJ... Regret it every day, pretty much since the day I let it go!!

[shelbybrowndog]

What size u joint do I need for the drive shaft. I can't find it. I thought it was 297 but can't find that on amazon.

[4.3LXJ]

Drive shaft is 1310

[samike0781]

If I remember correctly, I think a stubby 18mm wrench would come in handy for the fittings on the steering box. I did mine with a normal sized wrench, and I wished I had the stubby kind.
I cut my wrench and made my own stubby, only had to bust open several knuckles before I broke down and made a stubby

[shelbybrowndog]

Amazon has spicer 5-1310 ujoint….is that the same thing?

[4.3LXJ]

Yes it is. Get the one with the xerc fittings, not sealed

[shelbybrowndog]

Anybody have a write up on doing the axle seal? Mine is leaking on the passenger side. Thanks. Also, divorce cost is forcing me to sell. Anyone in south west florida area interested?

[4.3LXJ]

What axle?

[Rocco83]

Anybody have a write up on doing the axle seal? Mine is leaking on the passenger side. Thanks. Also, divorce cost is forcing me to sell. Anyone in south west florida area interested?

That thing is way too beautiful to let go of. It all absolutely haunt you if you get rid of it.

[shelbybrowndog]

It's a Dana 30 and I'm already haunted by having to sell. My other car is a 2009 BMW M3 convertible with 24k miles on it which is also for sale. Has a Dinan exhaust, x pipe, stage 2 software, cold air intake, and coil overs that keep the rear dampener in use. Very fun when not on the trail. My ex is really chopping my you know what off. The court system is BS. Sorry, needed to vent my frustration. Which is why wrenching on my jeep helps me keep my sanity.