Locker question.

[sshec152]

I have a 1996 Cherokee with the 4.0 in it, 4wd, automatic. In the front I have the high pinion and in the rear I have the Chrysler 8.25 27 spline. For now it's all stock with a/t tires. I eventually want to go with 3-4.5 inch lift with 31inch tires but that wont be for a little while but damn, aren't these things beast stock. ( I can go just as far as my friend in a lifted Dakota :mock:). Any way I live in the Philly PA area where we get snow anywhere from December to March. I do mostly mudding with rocks here and there. I'm on a limited budget so please keep that in mind. I've heard lockers are a really good first upgrade, so should I get a front or rear locker and what kind?
Thank you, Steven

[bigjim350]

I like front lockers. Though almost everybody disagrees with me on it. But in my experiance once I get the front end up and over something the rear usually follows pretty easy. "lunchbox" lockers like the aussie locker or lockright are the cheapest and easiest to install. They replace the spider gears and dont you dont have to re setup the gear. However i hear the that autolockers are not very good in the snow or ice (wouldnt know I live in TX). So then there is the best of the best, selectable lockers. You have air lockers (arb) electric lockers (auburn) and cable lockers (OX).

[sshec152]

Which type of selectable lockers are the best and what is the price difference between the two?
Thank you, Steven

[bigjim350]

The prices on all the selectable lockers is about the same. Which is the best? No clue. With the arb you have to have a air supply which means you need a air compressor and air lines. With the OX locker you have to installe a shifter and cable to engage it. On the electric locker you will just need a couple wires and a toggle switch. They are all plenty strong though. Just depends on what you want. But on any selectable locker your looking at $1k+ installed. On a autolocker your looking at $300 to $400

[cantab27]

just fitted a ox locker to my 30 now.....will give a linky to wear i brought it.......selectable is the go for the front if shes a dd......havernt tried it yet:o

[4.3LXJ]

Steve. Lockers are a great upgrade. But an automatic locker is really lousy on snow and ice. I would recommend a selectable locker or possibly a couple of Detroit Tru Tracks. The rear achieves a 70% lock up and is good in snow and ice. Or the selectables. Either way though I would stay away from an auto locker in snow and ice. However if you got the lunchbox locker, you could always save your spider gears and put them back in for the winter.

[sshec152]

Steve. Lockers are a great upgrade. But an automatic locker is really lousy on snow and ice. I would recommend a selectable locker or possibly a couple of Detroit Tru Tracks. The rear achieves a 70% lock up and is good in snow and ice. Or the selectables. Either way though I would stay away from an auto locker in snow and ice. However if you got the lunchbox locker, you could always save your spider gears and put them back in for the winter.

How much are the tru tracks? And would that be for the front or rear?

[sshec152]

just fitted a ox locker to my 30 now.....will give a linky to wear i brought it.......selectable is the go for the front if shes a dd......havernt tried it yet:o

What about in the rear, or would the front be the way to go?

[4.3LXJ]

True Tracs are always considered a good option for the front in mud. I haven't priced them lately. Check Randy's Ring and Pinion for some good prices. The trick is installing them, as is with any full locker or selectable. The ring gear needs to be set up again.

[cantab27]

i kill the front ..chewed it to bits thats why ive gone front

[cantab27]

get hold of jeff at
http://www.rockridge4wd.com/

hes good to deal with and advice is free ...tell him the kiwi sent ya there..

[sshec152]

get hold of jeff at
http://www.rockridge4wd.com/

hes good to deal with and advice is free ...tell him the kiwi sent ya there..

ok thank you very much!

[sshec152]

True Tracs are always considered a good option for the front in mud. I haven't priced them lately. Check Randy's Ring and Pinion for some good prices. The trick is installing them, as is with any full locker or selectable. The ring gear needs to be set up again.

Do you know of any good write up on how to install them?

[4.3LXJ]

The best place for that is to get a book from Randy's Ring and Pinion. They are very supportive of do it youselfers. They have the tools you will need too

[sshec152]

The best place for that is to get a book from Randy's Ring and Pinion. They are very supportive of do it youselfers. They have the tools you will need too

ok thank you very much!

[Dredwolf]

just fitted a ox locker to my 30 now.....will give a linky to wear i brought it.......selectable is the go for the front if shes a dd......havernt tried it yet:o

Hurry up and test it, I need DATA to decide :D

I am still trying to decide between a Grizzly Zip, and ARB or an OX for the D30. I know ARB makes a great product, but I really want to use an alternate in my build.

[cantab27]

do some homework on the ox mate....heaps simpler ,no air ,no lines to leak no solenoids,,cheaper ..in saying that the ox comes with 3 choices ,air, electric and cable which im running,,,keep is simple ....thats why i went with ox

[Mudderoy]

do some homework on the ox mate....heaps simpler ,no air ,no lines to leak no solenoids,,cheaper ..in saying that the ox comes with 3 choices ,air, electric and cable which im running,,,keep is simple ....thats why i went with ox

I like the cable the best for a selectable, however there's that running and mounting it. Especially fun if you do the front and rear lockers.

From all I have read the OX is nuclear strike proof, a.k.a. Wayne proof.

[OrangeXJ]

I got front and rear OX lockers on my TJ and love them

[OrangeXJ]

I like the cable the best for a selectable, however there's that running and mounting it. Especially fun if you do the front and rear lockers.

From all I have read the OX is nuclear strike proof, a.k.a. Wayne proof.

My levers are mounted on the tunnel just below just below the 4x4 lever out of the way and easy to get to.

[sshec152]

My levers are mounted on the tunnel just below just below the 4x4 lever out of the way and easy to get to.

How hard were they to install?

[cantab27]

gotta set diff up with the right shim and shit...recommended for a diff guru to do or unless ya know what ya are doing......get it wrong and that's a good bit of coin down the drain...may well effect the warranty...just read small print on my warranty invalid if jeep has been re-powered....mmmm glad im still running a in line 8....lol

[Dredwolf]

gow hard were they to install?

My big concern with the OX is routing the cable and mounting the lever, I'd go manual with the first one.

And I like the idea of not drilling a hole in the diff housing. I have the worse luck sometimes while wrenching, so I fret over the "OH :turd:!!!" stuff that can happen. If someone is going to break a tap in something, or snap a cobalt bit off while drilling, it will be me.

[cantab27]

no drilling in diff housing ..cable goes in the beefed up diff cover that comes with locker....cable is no different to plumb up than air lines..will post pics of mine when done...also comes with a tool u can unlock diff if there was cable damage why wheeling...again simple set up which is good for us jeepas

[sshec152]

gotta set diff up with the right shim and shit...recommended for a diff guru to do or unless ya know what ya are doing......get it wrong and that's a good bit of coin down the drain...may well effect the warranty...just read small print on my warranty invalid if jeep has been re-powered....mmmm glad im still running a in line 8....lol

So it's not worth trying to do myself? And what kind of shops will do the install?

[sshec152]

My big concern with the OX is routing the cable and mounting the lever, I'd go manual with the first one.

And I like the idea of not drilling a hole in the diff housing. I have the worse luck sometimes while wrenching, so I fret over the "OH :turd:!!!" stuff that can happen. If someone is going to break a tap in something, or snap a cobalt bit off while drilling, it will be me.

Lol that always happens to me especially when i just finishing up!

[cantab27]

So it's not worth trying to do myself? And what kind of shops will do the install?

cant answer that one for ya mate as i dont know how good ya on the spanners ( tools ) ,,,me if i had a bit more time i would do mine....just a matter of pulling old diff head out blah blah tis easy bit.in saying that i have taught myself to do a lot on jeeps with the old google is ya friend and sites like this.......as for shops, someone closer may chime in...;)

[4.3LXJ]

Most transmission shops can do it. It is a matter of patience and having the tools for it.

[sshec152]

cant answer that one for ya mate as i dont know how good ya on the spanners ( tools ) ,,,me if i had a bit more time i would do mine....just a matter of pulling old diff head out blah blah tis easy bit.in saying that i have taught myself to do a lot on jeeps with the old google is ya friend and sites like this.......as for shops, someone closer may chime in...;)

Im only 17 but still know a good deal and take automotive classes in high school but it is my dd so idk how long it would take to do it myself.

[4.3LXJ]

plan on all day

[sshec152]

Most transmission shops can do it. It is a matter of patience and having the tools for it.

How much would it cost to have done> And what kind of tools are needed?

[4.3LXJ]

Press, bearing pullers and dial indicator

[cantab27]

dont forget fitting of some lockers not done by trained or qualified peoples can make warranties invalid,,,,,read the small print kids....

[sshec152]

dang, well its looks like i wouldn't be able to do it but how much do you think it would cost to have done?

[4.3LXJ]

Prices vary. Just call around and ask. They should be able to quote you a flat price.

[sshec152]

OK well it looks like they don't make the truetrac for the 27 spline 8.25" and they don't make the ox for the 8.25" so what are some other options?

[4.3LXJ]

One option is 29 spline shafts out of a wrecking yard. A good upgrade for a locker anyway

[sshec152]

One option is 29 spline shafts out of a wrecking yard. A good upgrade for a locker anyway

how would you go about installing them?

[Dredwolf]

no drilling in diff housing ..cable goes in the beefed up diff cover that comes with locker....cable is no different to plumb up than air lines..will post pics of mine when done...also comes with a tool u can unlock diff if there was cable damage why wheeling...again simple set up which is good for us jeepas

I read about that cover being stout, but please post the pics when you can. And I like that manual lock tool.

I need to hurry up and get some of the "big" stuff finished on the XJ so I can go ahead and get the gearing and lockers done. Doesn't help when there is an excuse to go wheeling either.:D

[cantab27]

OK well it looks like they don't make the truetrac for the 27 spline 8.25" and they don't make the ox for the 8.25" so what are some other options?

weld it.............................................

[4.3LXJ]

how would you go about installing them?

It just takes some basic tools and a slide hammer which you can borrow or rent. Remove the diff cover and remove the C clips on the axles. Remove the brake drums and the four bolts that hold the retainer and backing plate on. Hook up the slide hammer and give it a whack. The old one will be out and the new goes in the opposite way.

[cantab27]

I read about that cover being stout, but please post the pics when you can. And I like that manual lock tool.

I need to hurry up and get some of the "big" stuff finished on the XJ so I can go ahead and get the gearing and lockers done. Doesn't help when there is an excuse to go wheeling either.:D

pics be up weekend...........:pray:

[sshec152]

It just takes some basic tools and a slide hammer which you can borrow or rent. Remove the diff cover and remove the C clips on the axles. Remove the brake drums and the four bolts that hold the retainer and backing plate on. Hook up the slide hammer and give it a whack. The old one will be out and the new goes in the opposite way.

looks like i might give it a try. Would it be better to get cromoly shafts or just use stock ones?

[sshec152]

Has anybody had experience with or heard about the powertrax lock right or no-slip?

[4.3LXJ]

looks like i might give it a try. Would it be better to get cromoly shafts or just use stock ones?

If you are using a Tru Trac stock shafts are fine. But if a true locker, especially a selectable then alloy shafts are the way to go

[Dredwolf]

Has anybody had experience with or heard about the powertrax lock right or no-slip?

I am considering the PowerTrax no-slip for my 29 spline 8.25, and an OX in the D30 up front, but I am buying lockers and 4.10/4.11 gears all at one time.

The No-slip has a good reputation for being pretty "quiet" compared to the other "lunchbox" lockers.

[denverd1]

anybody heard of these? Not much cheaper than a lockrite or other lunchbox but a little cheaper at $227 for dana 30. I know, you get what you pay for, but I'm not gonna spend big money for a locker then regear and re-lock it.
http://www.lokka.com/site/?gclid=CL36uPia3rQCFS-RPAodMlkADA

[cantab27]

look like them lockright ones,,,,,,

[4.3LXJ]

Looks just like an Aussie Locker, because that is what it is. Nice to know about free shipping now though so thanks for that. I have one. It works very well. I have used it very hard and did manage to put some wear on it last time out, but just reversed the halves and everything is fine now. I am the only person I know with an XJ that has had that happen, but mine is the only one that I know set up like mine too.

[denverd1]

So Steve, how did you wear the halves down. throwing all that HP to it?

[4.3LXJ]

I think it was all that horsepower (500 at idle with the lowest gears) on a real slow crawl. I took them out and examined them, they didn't look worn. Swapped halves and put it back together. Theoretically I would have a problem in reverse, but not yet. :brokenpic:

[denverd1]

So how hard is it to install one of these lunchbox types?

[4.3LXJ]

Not hard. But I recommend that you pull the carrier. You have to pull the axles out a little ways anyway. There are four little springs you have to compress and push in. Much easier if the carrier is out and you don't want one of those little suckers rocketing across the shop never to be seen again. The locker won't work without them

[prcjeep]

Pretty simple from what I understand and viewed.

I read somewhere where a company compared installing a locker to a brake job. If you have the tools and knowledge to be able to change out brake pads/shoes then you can install an Aussie locker.

Oops i guess that was from the Aussie lockers website lol

[prcjeep]

Not hard. But I recommend that you pull the carrier. You have to pull the axles out a little ways anyway. There are four little springs you have to compress and push in. Much easier if the carrier is out and you don't want one of those little suckers rocketing across the shop never to be seen again. The locker won't work without them

Haha, yup Matt kept dropping the damn things during the instal and removal of said locker.

[4.3LXJ]

Pretty simple from what I understand and viewed.

I read somewhere where a company compared installing a locker to a brake job. If you have the tools and knowledge to be able to change out brake pads/shoes then you can install an Aussie locker.

Oops i guess that was from the Aussie lockers website lol

If you have tools, it is not hard. Pulling the axle shafts is probably the hardest for the average unless you have a slide hammer

[4.3LXJ]

Haha, yup Matt kept dropping the damn things during the instal and removal of said locker.

Drop? I had one rocket. Found it fortunately, which was a miracle in my shop

[prcjeep]

if it had rocketed off.... it would have been gone for sure... LOL