DirtBoundOffroad Electric Fan Set Up

[Mudderoy]

I recently replaced the 180k mile 4.0L engine with a freshly rebuilt 4.0L engine. It has been running warm. The original engine had this problem until I installed a aluminum single row radiator, but this same radiator hasn't had the same success with the new engine.

I am unsure why the new engine is having this issue. I am sure in time I will figure it out, however until then I need to keep the engine running cool.

I understand that the 3 electric fan and shroud set up from DirtBoundOffroad (xjtalk vendor) only have the same CFM rating as the factory mechanical and electric fan set up, however after running my engine with the electric fan bypass on I can see a big difference in how well the cooling system works.

My thinking is that with 3 fans a larger surface area will be cooled and this will drop the running cooling temps. We'll see.

Today I have ordered the full blown (pun intended) electric fan system.

http://www.dirtboundoffroad.com/images/products/fankit/1-1.jpg

With controller, and pre-wired! :D

I was very happy that shipping to my house was only $18.

[LizardRunner]

that set up should do quite well. the air flow mass will be huge.

[89Laredo]

I know someone that has that setup, makes it a pita to work on the front of the engine.

[Mudderoy]

I know someone that has that setup, makes it a pita to work on the front of the engine.

I'll know more after I have it, but removing it looks to be a fairly easy 5 minute thing to do.

[4.3LXJ]

I'll know more after I have it, but removing it looks to be a fairly easy 5 minute thing to do.

That is what I do with my electric fan set up. Just one of those things.

[msmoorenburg]

I know someone that has that setup, makes it a pita to work on the front of the engine.

That will be cakewalk after you get past the bumper and KC lights

[XJ Wheeler]

Was wondering about this kit. Give us a thorough review, would ya Tony? I've been wondering if there's a fan that would fit that shroud that offers more cfm. May have to do a bit of research. And i'd like then to be wired so each fan comes on at a certain temp, in stages.

[Mudderoy]

Was wondering about this kit. Give us a thorough review, would ya Tony? I've been wondering if there's a fan that would fit that shroud that offers more cfm. May have to do a bit of research. And i'd like then to be wired so each fan comes on at a certain temp, in stages.

With the controller offered with the unit, you don't have to buy it, one fan comes on at 185 degrees. The other two come on at 205 degrees.

I'm sure I'll be wiring in my bypass switch so I can turn them all on.

[XJ Wheeler]

With the controller offered with the unit, you don't have to buy it, one fan comes on at 185 degrees. The other two come on at 205 degrees.

I'm sure I'll be wiring in my bypass switch so I can turn them all on.

Yeah, i'd definitely want a bypass too. My preference on the fan controller would be, maybe, #1 (center fan) on at 180° #2 (drivers side) on at 200° and #3 (pass. side) on at 220°. That would just about perfect in my mind.

[Mudderoy]

Yeah, i'd definitely want a bypass too. My preference on the fan controller would be, maybe, #1 (center fan) on at 180° #2 (drivers side) on at 200° and #3 (pass. side) on at 220°. That would just about perfect in my mind.

Well keep in mind that these three fans only equal the CFM of the mechanical and electric fans. So depending on the outside temp, I would think you'd what 1 or 3, and now that I think about it, you might want 2 then 3.

[Brasscatz]

Very excited to see how this works out. My Jeep didn't have any heat problems until I kept listening to all your podcasts and hearing about your heat problems :headbang:

[Carves]

................ and now that I think about it, you might want 2 then 3.


2 on at, at least 180* ...then the 3rd on at 210*ish .... would be my preference ...

Average temp operation of the fanclutch is about 170*.


Better to have a little extra cooling already happening - in the rad .... and let the t'stat control the flow ... Rather than hope the fans can play catchup, with escalating temps - when the t'stat is wide open ... IMHO.

[XJ Wheeler]

Well keep in mind that these three fans only equal the CFM of the mechanical and electric fans. So depending on the outside temp, I would think you'd what 1 or 3, and now that I think about it, you might want 2 then 3.

That's true with the 2 then 3 setup. I wonder if you could splice into that wiring to do that.

[Mudderoy]

That's true with the 2 then 3 setup. I wonder if you could splice into that wiring to do that.

Oh I bet I can have two come on at 185 and the third come on at 205. I'll just try it the way it comes. Besides, it will be at 205 pretty quick.

[XJ4IV]

I am running this setup already tony, the ONLY issues I had with the install was the lower mounting... I ended you just self tapping three screws into the bottom of the sheet metal.
as for the installation into the jeep, you might have a small issue with how your a/c lines come in, I had to kinda bend mine out of the way a little bit... otherwise known as "manipulate" and the OEM fan bolts that stick out will have to be cut off as well but I had this done long time ago. mine is wired to a simple on/off switch which is right by my starter button so I don't miss it.

[ezbuzzsaw]

Well this one is hard for me to write, I bought the kit and I cannot say I am happy with it. I am amazed at its cooling power and surprised you say it only has the same CFM as the original. My kit is keeping my XJ at 160 when it is under 85 degrees and at 200 when at 90 to 100, yes I live in Houston so this higher temp is most of the year, LOL. The shroud is very thin and does not fit well in a 1992 as designed. The install as instructed would have been sloppy, so I modified the cross brace for the top of the radiator instead, and that made for a much cleaner install. It is a pain to work on the front of the engine with this in place. With my extra lights and these fans my OEM alternator could not keep up, so we did a Dakota upgrade to a 130 amp (Mopar # 56005686), requiring removal of the alternator bracket, to do the alternator you have to remove the passenger side fan or the whole kit. But after modifying the alt. bracket the new high amp system runs the fans well, even with all lights on at idle. I think the fans can be replace with a Haden brand I will let you all know if they ever fail and will post the Haden part number. I have a forth fan in front as a pusher as a backup system, planning a west Texas trip soon and wanted backup system in case of a failure. So as far as why I am not happy, the shroud design is functional but is thin and needs the bugs worked out. Pre-wire kit was crude, (poorly done), just do it yourself. The crimp on terminals were not even water tight type and some came off easily when pulled slightly during install. I rewired mine to clean it up, their design puts the relays by the fans not sure why. It will be easy to hook it up for two fans then three on the controller and I do suggest you do that if you are in a warmer area. I will have mine set up after fully prototyped for ECU control telling their switch to come on and a manual override switch just in case for power on and full off for water crossings. So to be fair it is working as advertised, maybe it is just too expensive for what you get. Also I am sure the regular alternator can run these fans but I have IPF Super Rally lights and IPF head lights draining the power. This is a tough install on a 1992 XJ, maybe it is easier on a newer model. If you are willing to work very hard to debug this you will end up with a great cooling system that should solve all your cooling problems. Hope this helps and you find it a fair and balanced review.

[Mudderoy]

Well this one is hard for me to write, I bought the kit and I cannot say I am happy with it. I am amazed at its cooling power and surprised you say it only has the same CFM as the original. My kit is keeping my XJ at 160 when it is under 85 degrees and at 200 when at 90 to 100, yes I live in Houston so this higher temp is most of the year, LOL. The shroud is very thin and does not fit well in a 1992 as designed. The install as instructed would have been sloppy, so I modified the cross brace for the top of the radiator instead, and that made for a much cleaner install. It is a pain to work on the front of the engine with this in place. With my extra lights and these fans my OEM alternator could not keep up, so we did a Dakota upgrade to a 130 amp (Mopar # 56005686), requiring removal of the alternator bracket, to do the alternator you have to remove the passenger side fan or the whole kit. But after modifying the alt. bracket the new high amp system runs the fans well, even with all lights on at idle. I think the fans can be replace with a Haden brand I will let you all know if they ever fail and will post the Haden part number. I have a forth fan in front as a pusher as a backup system, planning a west Texas trip soon and wanted backup system in case of a failure. So as far as why I am not happy, the shroud design is functional but is thin and needs the bugs worked out. Pre-wire kit was crude, (poorly done), just do it yourself. The crimp on terminals were not even water tight type and some came off easily when pulled slightly during install. I rewired mine to clean it up, their design puts the relays by the fans not sure why. It will be easy to hook it up for two fans then three on the controller and I do suggest you do that if you are in a warmer area. I will have mine set up after fully prototyped for ECU control telling their switch to come on and a manual override switch just in case for power on and full off for water crossings. So to be fair it is working as advertised, maybe it is just too expensive for what you get. Also I am sure the regular alternator can run these fans but I have IPF Super Rally lights and IPF head lights draining the power. This is a tough install on a 1992 XJ, maybe it is easier on a newer model. If you are willing to work very hard to debug this you will end up with a great cooling system that should solve all your cooling problems. Hope this helps and you find it a fair and balanced review.

Yep, I'm already considering the Grand Cherokee 130 amp alternator upgrade. The installation of that alternator is a minor bracket modification.

I'll know more about the kit when I get it, I just received the tracking number yesterday (Friday) a week after order, but I didn't order a kit, I ordered fully wired.

Overall I like the design and I'm not concerned about being able to work on the front of the motor. I'll take the fans out if I have to do that. The great thing about this 3 fan set up is all the factory stuff can go right back on if necessary. But if I thought I was going to do that, I wouldn't have ordered it.

[ezbuzzsaw]

Hey the alternator is pretty easy while you are doing the fan install, just remove the alternator and bracket before you put in the fans. Modifyt the bracket, it is aluminum and easy to cut with a belt grinder or a air cut off die grinder, test fit the alternator until it no longer hits the bracket and your done. Great mod for an off road rig!

[XJ4IV]

yeah I think considering that I replaced EVERY SINGLE PIECE OF MY COOLING SYSTEM!!!
and the only item I swapped to an aftermarket design was the fans... right now the jeep runs at 225 which is way better than before but still not back to OEM standards of 190-210

[Pookapotamus]

I am also considering this fan set up, eagerly awaiting your write up Tony!

[DirtBound Offroad]

Well this one is hard for me to write, I bought the kit and I cannot say I am happy with it. I am amazed at its cooling power and surprised you say it only has the same CFM as the original. My kit is keeping my XJ at 160 when it is under 85 degrees and at 200 when at 90 to 100, yes I live in Houston so this higher temp is most of the year, LOL. The shroud is very thin and does not fit well in a 1992 as designed. The install as instructed would have been sloppy, so I modified the cross brace for the top of the radiator instead, and that made for a much cleaner install. It is a pain to work on the front of the engine with this in place. With my extra lights and these fans my OEM alternator could not keep up, so we did a Dakota upgrade to a 130 amp (Mopar # 56005686), requiring removal of the alternator bracket, to do the alternator you have to remove the passenger side fan or the whole kit. But after modifying the alt. bracket the new high amp system runs the fans well, even with all lights on at idle. I think the fans can be replace with a Haden brand I will let you all know if they ever fail and will post the Haden part number. I have a forth fan in front as a pusher as a backup system, planning a west Texas trip soon and wanted backup system in case of a failure. So as far as why I am not happy, the shroud design is functional but is thin and needs the bugs worked out. Pre-wire kit was crude, (poorly done), just do it yourself. The crimp on terminals were not even water tight type and some came off easily when pulled slightly during install. I rewired mine to clean it up, their design puts the relays by the fans not sure why. It will be easy to hook it up for two fans then three on the controller and I do suggest you do that if you are in a warmer area. I will have mine set up after fully prototyped for ECU control telling their switch to come on and a manual override switch just in case for power on and full off for water crossings. So to be fair it is working as advertised, maybe it is just too expensive for what you get. Also I am sure the regular alternator can run these fans but I have IPF Super Rally lights and IPF head lights draining the power. This is a tough install on a 1992 XJ, maybe it is easier on a newer model. If you are willing to work very hard to debug this you will end up with a great cooling system that should solve all your cooling problems. Hope this helps and you find it a fair and balanced review.



This kind of information / feedback is very helpful! Out of the hundreds of kits that have gone out I have probably had less than 10 people give feedback.

I'm not sure what shroud version you have but they should fit pretty good on the current revision.

I have the kit installed on my 90 cherokee with a 93+ radiator (radiator cap type) with a complete bolt on install.

Another thing I like to tell people that this is not a cure to overheating issues as it is designed to work on a properly working cooling system. The main reason for the kit is the reduced drag from the mechanical fan and the ability to better control the temperatures and wire in kill switches for water crossings etc...

I'll keep an eye on this thread.

[Mudderoy]

I thought it would be bigger! :D

747

[Mudderoy]

I received the 3 electric fan kit yesterday. It was smaller than I thought it would be and lighter. Both those things are good in my book!

I opened it up. Everything was packed well and sealed up.

749

After removing the 3 fans from their individual boxes I was concerned because I didn't see how the fan holes were going to line up with the mounting studs in the shroud.

Also I was surprised how flimsy the shroud was. When I picked up the shroud from the ends with the three fans laying on top, needed to get something out of the box, I was a little concerned that the aluminum might fold up! lol but it didn't.

750

No instructions were included, so off to my computer to download the PDF from the Dirtbound website. I printed the 8 pages of instructions and went back to my project.

751

752

Looking at the instructions I saw there were little plastic ears that fit into four openings on the fan. They had holes that matched up, some what, with the shroud.

The shroud is done right, as it has studs that you screw into. No nut and washer set up. As I mentioned the fan mounts and the holes/studs some what matched up. I'm not sure if the fan manufacture was changed after the creation of the shrouds but the holes do not line up perfectly.

The 12 bolts that come with the kit to mount the fans to the shroud are long, so this makes it easier to lift that corner of the fan up and get the holes to line up. After eleven screws the twelfth and final one was the only one that I cross threaded. I've tried a few times and even with the other fans very lose I cannot move the last fan into a position that will allow a nice easy threading of that screw.

I'll grab a larger Philips screwdriver and screw that bolt in the rest of the way, but cross threaded will be the only option.

753

So far I have been unable to determine what the starting current and running current is of each of these fans. The instructions show wiring up the fans to two relays. One fan to one 40 amp relay and the remaining two fans to a second 40 amp relay.

Without this information I am not going to install as having fans to cool the engine are critical, and I don't want to be 20 miles from home when the relay or wiring go out. Nothing against DirtBound's design as I am sure this was thought out, however for my own piece of mind I want to be sure of what I have. After all this isn't OEM and run by literally millions of people.

[Mudderoy]

I sent a message to DirtBound via the website form asking about the fans start up and running current.

Looking at the fans I do not see any make or model information. Looking at boxes they came in provides no further information.

There is a sticker on each of the fans that say 80 watts. Using ohms law I can determine that the current draw for 12 volts and 80 watts, is about 9 amps.

I'll find out soon because I'll take my DVM (if it measures that high of a current) and I'll see exactly what the start up and running amps are.

Three fans running at 9 amps each, 27 amps. I tell you if that's all to provide 4000+ cfm and spread out over the entire surface of the radiator, well color me impressed.

I have no doubt about the cfm air flow, I know Dirtbound went to a lot of trouble to measure that, I just need to see what the current draw is, but 27 amps on two 40 amp relays is fine. That would be 18 amps on one and 9 amps on the other. Plenty of over head.

[DirtBound Offroad]

Hey Mudderoy,

I don't see an email from you, but you are correct. Our testing shows about 6-9 amps per fan.

Max

[Mudderoy]

Hey Mudderoy,

I don't see an email from you, but you are correct. Our testing shows about 6-9 amps per fan.

Max

I sent it through the web interface on your site. I think I've sent a total to two of them.

[Mudderoy]

Okay so today will finally be the day for the installation of these fans.

I sat down with the instructions and parts in hand. There are no fuses, or fuse holders.

I'll need to get under the hood to be sure but I suspect I'll need some wire to run from the pre-wired harness to the +12 and the ground on the battery.

I also need some crimp on stuff if I don't want to attach bare wire directly to the battery terminals. Which I don't.

I went with the pre-wire kit to make installation as easy as possible, however after seeing what more I need to purchase I might have well just got the electrical stuff and just planned the whole thing out myself.

Also I would have liked to have seen in the instructions what size fuses I need to purchase. I can figure it out, but had it been in the instructions then I would have known I was making a trip to the store shortly after receiving the kit, or even prior to ordering it.

[Mudderoy]

So if I figuring this correctly I need two fuse holders and two fuses. One fuse and fuse holder needs to handing the 9 amps of one fan. Add 25% to that 9 amps and that would be a 11.25 amp fuse, so 12 amp fuse. That probably means a 15 amp fuse.

The two fan set up would be 18 amps, so 22.5 amps. 25 amp fuse then.

Keeping things simple, I need to get two fuse holders rated at 25 amps, or higher, and a handful of 15 and 25 amp fuses. I say a handful, cause I bet I blow a few. ;)

I better grab some 12 volt wiring, both black and red. Now what size wire do I need for 25 amps?


Looking here... :link: (http://www.offroaders.com/tech/12-volt-wire-gauge-amps.htm)

I'm sure I won't go over 10 feet in length, so I'll say 10 feet... so 14 gauge wire, I'll go 12 gauge.

Even if it turns out I don't need the wire, I'll be able to use it for other things. :D

Oh and I'll need some nylon zip ties.

[Mudderoy]

Okay here's an update. I've been working on it since about 2pm.

I have it installed along with a B&M 13k BTU transmission cooler. I've removed the transmission from the radiator. Gonna see if it runs cooler, get rid of the heat creep I hope.

All that I have left is the wiring and sensor installation. I'm taking a break and thinking about finishing it tomorrow. I hate having the vehicle down though...

I was able to determine that the relays and wiring are on the driver's side, so there is no way the pre-wired harness is going to reach to the battery or a switched 12 volt source. So two fuse holders, fuses, and wire will need to be added to the list of things you need to install the fan kit.

[Brasscatz]

Very interested to see how this thing turns out. Too bad that we'll have to wait until it gets hotter again to see how it really does. But I'm still interested to know :D

[Mudderoy]

971

972

I was thinking I was going to have to find 30 amps of "switched" 12 volts, which I wasn't very happy about. I just re-read the documentation, and I just need to provide the switched 12 volt to the controller. Whew!

So I'll run everything to the battery, which I like, and then only the controller will be on a 12 volt switched source, and I would imagine that it doesn't require very many amps.

After I get this running I'll need to think about how I'm going to re-connect my electric fan override switch. It's a three position switch. So I can have bypass off, and two other choices.

Right now I'm thinking "OFF" in case I find myself in really deep water, and all three fans on.

I was also thinking that if I find it's better to have two fans on by default it will be as simple as moving connections on the controller. Just hook up the relay with two fans connected to it to pin 1 of the controller.

[XJ Wheeler]

I agree on the bypass. The only times you'll be needing it is either ti shut them off for something like water crossings, or when something happened and its overheating and in that case you'll want full power.

Looking good, is the trans cooler you have the #70268? Just picked one up and wonder how the ailment is.

[Mudderoy]

Okay it's been a disappointing day.

I was able to get the final wiring and sensor installed. I ran the engine up to 185, no fans. 210, no fans, 215, a single fan came on. The temp continued to climb, at 225 (or so) the single fan turned off.

I let it get to 235 before I turned off the engine.

I need to go to work tomorrow, so I hooked up the bypass switch. First on the dual fans, then on the remaining one. I figured worse case I could toggle the fans on and off if it was too cold (yeah right).

Took it for a test drive.

I'll still debugging it but some how I made an unintended circuit. It fried my bypass switch and much of the stuff that made the bypass switch up.

When I smelled the faint aroma of melting plastic, I pulled over. The fans were still going!

So at 235 degrees I drove it back home. It would drop to 230 and rise back up. It did this all the way home.

I got home and checked, yep all three fans were running, however with the electrical issues I couldn't be certain they were running at full rpm. I cannot think of why they wouldn't be though.

Now 6:30pm I took a few minutes to think things though. I removed the electric fans and put the mechanical and stock electric back in it!

Test drive... works like it used to before the change. Including the electric fan coming on and off automatically.

So for two days work I have a transmission cooler installation to show for it.

http://youtu.be/QOhr9DlKz7M

[4.3LXJ]

That is tough Tony. Not sure what to say about that

[bluedragon436]

I am hoping to see some feedback on this issue.... as I had considered picking up this upgrade myself... and def can't afford to waste that money..

Hey Tony... you still have the HD ZJ fan clutch correct?? If so how did you manage to swap it out and put it back in doing this project without having to pull the radiator???

[XJ Wheeler]

Wow, that is a disappointing day. I've considered this kit as well, hopefully all goes well.

This whole overheating ordeal really gets frustrating, when it continues without a solution. Seems as though it couldn't be airflow; so that leaves either coolant flow or something dragging on the vehicle. Have you checked the torque converter yet? It would be nice to know if you were getting proper coolant flow. Disconnecting the upper hose, maybe? How's your power output?

[Mudderoy]

Wow, that is a disappointing day. I've considered this kit as well, hopefully all goes well.

This whole overheating ordeal really gets frustrating, when it continues without a solution. Seems as though it couldn't be airflow; so that leaves either coolant flow or something dragging on the vehicle. Have you checked the torque converter yet? It would be nice to know if you were getting proper coolant flow. Disconnecting the upper hose, maybe? How's your power output?

Yes and surprising as the fans pull a LOT of air through the front of the Jeep. Color me surprised.

The torque converter is about a year old. It is a heavy duty one (or so I was told). Keep in mind that the running hot was an issue prior to the transmission rebuild, and well before everything except the tires/wheels and lift.

It has changed slightly with the new motor in as much as it will run warm all the time not just at highway speeds.

[XJ Wheeler]

But that doesn't mean its the same issue, although would be a rather large coincidence.

[Mudderoy]

But that doesn't mean its the same issue, although would be a rather large coincidence.

Running hot at highway speeds has been a constant. I have not been on the highway since the new motor was installed. I need to see what it does now.

[Brasscatz]

I had a thought, Muddy... could your factory coolant temp sensor that goes in the tstat housing be off? As in, showing higher temps than it really is? I have the same bluetooth OBDII adapter with the Torque app that you have and I thought it would show true temps, but it only shows what my gauge shows, because when I had a short and my needle pegged, so did my Torque app temp.

My thought on how to test this, and I've never tried it but it just made sense in my head ;), unscrew the CTS, leave it hooked up to the connector, turn the key to the 'ON' position and hold the end of the sensor in a cup of hot water along with a digital meat thermometer (or some sort of thermometer) and see what your torque app reading is and compare to the thermometer.

Anybody please feel free to critique this... it just popped in my head and I have no clue if it will work :D

[4.3LXJ]

That might work. Also you can use an inexpensive digital HVAC stick thermometer.

[Mudderoy]

I had a thought, Muddy... could your factory coolant temp sensor that goes in the tstat housing be off? As in, showing higher temps than it really is? I have the same bluetooth OBDII adapter with the Torque app that you have and I thought it would show true temps, but it only shows what my gauge shows, because when I had a short and my needle pegged, so did my Torque app temp.

My thought on how to test this, and I've never tried it but it just made sense in my head ;), unscrew the CTS, leave it hooked up to the connector, turn the key to the 'ON' position and hold the end of the sensor in a cup of hot water along with a digital meat thermometer (or some sort of thermometer) and see what your torque app reading is and compare to the thermometer.

Anybody please feel free to critique this... it just popped in my head and I have no clue if it will work :D

It's a new Chrysler sensor. Matt made me change the old one, which was the factory original.

[Pookapotamus]

any feed back on this tony? getting real close to ordering this kit.

[Mudderoy]

any feed back on this tony? getting real close to ordering this kit.

I don't have any immediate plans to re-install.

[gary63]

what type of coolen are you using and are you using any additives like red line wetter water and is the coolent prey mix or did you mix it?

[Mudderoy]

what type of coolen are you using and are you using any additives like red line wetter water and is the coolent prey mix or did you mix it?

Straight water.

[gary63]

is it disteld becouse reg. water will leve hard water minroles like calceum lime and other that will reasrececd or even plugwater passages.Soft water will do the same but with salt.It will afect some motors more than other becouse of the casting on the inside of the motor.But if you are useing just water try red line wetter water it help the water put heat out of the steel.

[Mudderoy]

is it disteld becouse reg. water will leve hard water minroles like calceum lime and other that will reasrececd or even plugwater passages.Soft water will do the same but with salt.It will afect some motors more than other becouse of the casting on the inside of the motor.But if you are useing just water try red line wetter water it help the water put heat out of the steel.

I have distilled water ready, but since the new engine I've only run regular water. With it running hot I thought I better solve the problem before adding in antifreeze that is just going to make the coolant harder to pull the heat out.

I figured I'd have it solved by now though.

[gary63]

will you did alittle hotter cam over stock so it may need alittle more richer.If it
is running alittle lead it will run alittle hotter. I know when we change out a cam in carbrated motors you had to ajust the richness and with the comp. fuel injection the program it still trying to work with the old cam spicks.Are you running any after markit chip?

[Mudderoy]

will you did alittle hotter cam over stock so it may need alittle more richer.If it
is running alittle lead it will run alittle hotter. I know when we change out a cam in carbrated motors you had to ajust the richness and with the comp. fuel injection the program it still trying to work with the old cam spicks.Are you running any after markit chip?

No. I do have the ability to adjust the distributor. I've made one adjustment and was monitoring any changes. About time for another.

[ezbuzzsaw]

Well this one is hard for me to write, I bought the kit and I cannot say I am happy with it. I am amazed at its cooling power and surprised you say it only has the same CFM as the original. My kit is keeping my XJ at 160 when it is under 85 degrees and at 200 when at 90 to 100, yes I live in Houston so this higher temp is most of the year, LOL. The shroud is very thin and does not fit well in a 1992 as designed. The install as instructed would have been sloppy, so I modified the cross brace for the top of the radiator instead, and that made for a much cleaner install. It is a pain to work on the front of the engine with this in place. With my extra lights and these fans my OEM alternator could not keep up, so we did a Dakota upgrade to a 130 amp (Mopar # 56005686), requiring removal of the alternator bracket, to do the alternator you have to remove the passenger side fan or the whole kit. But after modifying the alt. bracket the new high amp system runs the fans well, even with all lights on at idle. I think the fans can be replace with a Haden brand I will let you all know if they ever fail and will post the Haden part number. I have a forth fan in front as a pusher as a backup system, planning a west Texas trip soon and wanted backup system in case of a failure. So as far as why I am not happy, the shroud design is functional but is thin and needs the bugs worked out. Pre-wire kit was crude, (poorly done), just do it yourself. The crimp on terminals were not even water tight type and some came off easily when pulled slightly during install. I rewired mine to clean it up, their design puts the relays by the fans not sure why. It will be easy to hook it up for two fans then three on the controller and I do suggest you do that if you are in a warmer area. I will have mine set up after fully prototyped for ECU control telling their switch to come on and a manual override switch just in case for power on and full off for water crossings. So to be fair it is working as advertised, maybe it is just too expensive for what you get. Also I am sure the regular alternator can run these fans but I have IPF Super Rally lights and IPF head lights draining the power. This is a tough install on a 1992 XJ, maybe it is easier on a newer model. If you are willing to work very hard to debug this you will end up with a great cooling system that should solve all your cooling problems. Hope this helps and you find it a fair and balanced review.

Jake,
Here is a review from me earlier this year on the fan system. The fans are
~5 months old now and in Houston's mild winters I have to turn the fans off due to them working too well. I do use a water wetter additive so with all this woking well the Jeep runs too cool.
I am still ordering a few things from Dirt Bound if that is any indication. I just got in my rear window storage rack from them last week. I am going to have to have it blasted before paint due to rust on arrival. I like thier products there just seems to be a lack of attention to detail. But maybe I am too harsh I am a QA/QC Manager for a living, LOL. Get this, right after I get my rack in they started a promo to get a second one for 50% off, I sure would have gone for that one.
Hope it all goes well for you on this Mod, I am happy I did it and would do it again.