Electric locks Gremlin?

[redneck999]

When i hit the master switch, individual switches and the remote it doesnt lock or unlock but i can hear the actuators making noise. A month ago it was just happening to the drivers rear door but now it is all doors. any ideas where to start? I greased everything up when the back door acted up, took the panel off and sprayed and it started working again but only for a day(coincidence?) I can live without p locks but i will miss my creature comforts!

[NW99XJ]

It sounds like it could be a linkage issue, like maybe the linkage is getting hung up on something, or has come disconnected. Pull the door panels, and double check the run, also try working them with the panels off, so you can physically see whats going on. Sometimes actuators just get tired. They may sound like they're working, but they just don't have the "umph" they used to. Aftermarket actuators are easy to come by, are relatively cheap and a breeze to install. You could also go the Junkyard route, but often times the OEM motors are riveted in, so you'll not only have to drill them out, but then find a way to re-secure them upon re-installation.
I'd also look at voltage...this may tell you al little more about the wiring. It should be a positive trigger, at 12+Volts, meaning that when you hit the button, you should read a momentary voltage spike of 12volts at the actuator. If you're not seeing that, you may have a short, or a bad ground in the system somewhere and it might be hard to track down.
In the late models, there is a master control module that feeds everything else, if this isn't passing the right voltage down the line, it may be an internal problem to the control module.

[4.3LXJ]

The stiffness comes from the grease in the latch/lock mechanism at the rear of the door. The grease gets dry over time. You will have to pull the panels to access them. The actuators just cannot overcome the sticky grease.

[Mudderoy]

When i hit the master switch, individual switches and the remote it doesnt lock or unlock but i can hear the actuators making noise. A month ago it was just happening to the drivers rear door but now it is all doors. any ideas where to start? I greased everything up when the back door acted up, took the panel off and sprayed and it started working again but only for a day(coincidence?) I can live without p locks but i will miss my creature comforts!

Well lets see. I've replaced the passenger door lock first, then the driver's. Now the driver's side rear is starting to make that same noise.

I replaced two in the 99. I ordered 3 automatic electric locks from RockAuto (or maybe TeamCherokee.com) It was about $400!!!!

As far as I know you don't fix, you replace.

Yeah let me know if fixing that stick grease thing works.

[redneck999]

I miss the days when i could tap things with a screwdriver handle or wave my hands magically over something and start swearing that i was gonna burn it down and it would work! I guess i will start pricing solenoids, is there a prefered supplier of solenoids? I have spray siliconed the crap out of it

[XJ Wheeler]

I've had a problem with one of mine, i'm guessing its similar to yours. The locking mechanism was getting hard to move, even by me. And the actuator could no longer unlock that door. So i took the door panel off and cleaned it up as much as i could, then slathered it with wd-40, in every hole/crevice i could find. I even sprayed the other mechanisms just from the outside. Working great ever since.

[NW99XJ]

This is the cheapest i've seen. Not 100% familiar with the brand though.
http://www.uneeksupply.com/4-Blue-Heavy-Duty-Power-Door-Lock-Actuator-360-Degree-_p_18457.html
Brands that I've worked with anfd trust are DEI (Directed Electronics Inc.) or METRA.
They both make kits as well....but this is one heck of a price. The other brands I listed are a bit more expensive, prob about 17-20 bucks shipped. Try going to your local car stereo store, they should have something for you as well. These are UNIVERSAL kits, and will require some patience to set up and position right, but WILL work for any Cherokee. They're just not exactly plug and play....but at least there's no fabrication involved.
Also what 4.3LXJ was talking about is good advice... you can take the whole lock/latch mechanism out, clean it good, and then re-grease the living hell out of it. Even if you decide to swap the actuators, this is a good idea.

[redneck999]

Rained yesterday and misting today, if clear tom i will pull a panel and start cleaning and go from there, Many thanks!

[redneck999]

Removed the pass door panel doesnt appear to have a rod. I found the solenoid is a small plastic deal about the diameter of a quarter and 2" long looking like it attatches directly to the door latch assembly, i dont even feel any screws to remove so it looks like it has to come out with the latch and mitchels manual is no help. i can put my hand on the solenoid and hear and feel it go rrrrrrrrr, no clunk when it locks or unlocks.

[redneck999]

found some pics if whats goin on and the solenoid