Tie Rod Conversion

[PEI-XJ]

i bought a Rusty's Jeep XJ-TJ-YJ Tie Rod Conversion RS-SC250-UV and i seen on http://www.rustysoffroad.com/video-gallery/?video=project-cheap-cherokee-part-1 and they went Over-the-Knuckle Steering would it be better for me to do this or keep it as is more clearince the better but was thinking it would cut down on the angle for the drag link to the pitman are
any help would be great

[PEI-XJ]

no one tryed this with the same unit i have

[07Negative]

I have the Steering conversion kit. I think it's a POS. If you do UTK you'll need the poly spacers to eliminate "The Dead" spot in your steering. The drag link causes the tie rod to roll which in the end causes the dead spot. It sucks!
You always do the steering last. Doing an over the knuckle (OTK) design. You have to relocate both track bar bracket on the axle and sway bar brackets. They need to be moved and out of the way of binding.
This system is called a inverted T system. Its cool, but that damn dead spot sucks.

[Dredwolf]

I have the Steering conversion kit. I think it's a POS. If you do UTK you'll need the poly spacers to eliminate "The Dead" spot in your steering. The drag link causes the tie rod to roll which in the end causes the dead spot. It sucks!
You always do the steering last. Doing an other the knuckle (OTK) design. You have to relocate both track bar bracket on the axle and sway bar brackets. They need to be moved and out of the way of binding.
This system is called a inverted T system. Its cool, but that damn dead spot sucks.

Good info. So what steering improvements are actually worth the $$ spent? (Note, full hydro conversions, while awesome and cool, are not on the budget :D)

[4.3LXJ]

There are really no cheap conversions that are good. They all have their drawbacks. But if you don't go over 5.5" of lift, they they are not needed. If you want to go above that and have good highway manners, then you need to look at a high steer. But be advised you will need to fab new track bar brackets on the frame and axle as well as a new track bar. I have done that and am pleased with the results ... now. But I had to get it in my head that the factory style was not going to cut it.

[Dredwolf]

There are really no cheap conversions that are good. They all have their drawbacks. But if you don't go over 5.5" of lift, they they are not needed. If you want to go above that and have good highway manners, then you need to look at a high steer. But be advised you will need to fab new track bar brackets on the frame and axle as well as a new track bar. I have done that and am pleased with the results ... now. But I had to get it in my head that the factory style was not going to cut it.

How about the beefed steering kits? Worth anything? Or wait until something breaks?

[07Negative]

I want to put my foot in my mouth for a second. I shouldn't have stated it was a POS. The Rusty's steering conversion is actually exactly what it is. It converts a inverted Y system to a inverted T system. With that comes side effects. Drag link causes the tie tod to roll, which then creates this dead spot in the steering. The band-aid for that is to put poly spacers in lieu of the dust boot on the TRE on the tie rod.
So like Steve stated, do a cross over steering or high steer. Brackets have to be relocated and getting your parallelogram nice and parallel. But if I'm not mistaken, you also want to keep in mind the length of the track bar and drag link to be very close in length. So no 30" track bar and a 70" drag link.

[07Negative]

A beefed up steering kit wont do you much good other than holding up to rocks better. But if your geometry is outa whack, like how mine is now. It does you no damn good. I currently dislike and do not enjoy driving my XJ. Frankly, I'm scared at times. That's why your steering is the last thing you do. And it's also a good ideal to plan your build opposed to start with 3" only to end up going to 4 and then to 6". To find out that's where you want or needed to be. Your not buying 2 or 3 times and your not creating headaches. Such as the steering.
It's advised that once your around the 4.5-5.5" of lift to consider doing high steering setup because of the geometry. I've heard most folks say 5.5" but I could have done it as well with my lift at so called, "4.5." And I think that's why the Curry steering is so popular/highly regarded b/c it's still a Y system, but beefier. But it's also like $500 and I don't see the logic in it. But you can do the WJ V8 steering meanwhile. Which I should have done....
And you don't need hydro assist is your running 33's or 35's for that matter. Though you could with 35's but I would think it's not quite worth it yet.

[Dredwolf]

....It's advised that once your around the 4.5-5.5" of lift to consider doing high steering setup because of the geometry. I've heard most folks say 5.5" but I could have done it as well with my lift at so called, "4.5." And I think that's why the Curry steering is so popular/highly regarded b/c it's still a Y system, but beefier. But it's also like $500 and I don't see the logic in it. But you can do the WJ V8 steering meanwhile. Which I should have done....
And you don't need hydro assist is your running 33's or 35's for that matter. Though you could with 35's but I would think it's not quite worth it yet.

The hydro "joke" was just that, for the "your rig must cost more than average state salary" crowd that seems to inhabit some of the 4x4 boards.

My XJ is currently riding at an estimated 4.5" with 33's, and runs pretty well down the road. The steering is a little "wild" at above 70mph, but the front tires are also overinflated at the moment, nothing that I would not mind for an hour or two at interstate speeds. After the RE coil swap (to get rid of the spring/double poly spacer/kitchen sink lift), trying to think ahead about steering. I have looked at the Currie setup, after driving a JK with their swaybar and being impressed.

[4.3LXJ]

How about the beefed steering kits? Worth anything? Or wait until something breaks?

Honestly, one of the best things you can do is just use the ZJ V8 tie rod. It uses the same drag link. Or you can get a super beefy one from IronMan Andy http://ironman4x4fab.com/

[Dredwolf]

Honestly, one of the best things you can do is just use the ZJ V8 tie rod. It uses the same drag link. Or you can get a super beefy one from IronMan Andy

I'll check that out, either just getting the ZJ part or Andy's. Living here in the southeast, all the wheeling spots are at least 45 minute drive or more, so I need to keep the road manners.

[4.3LXJ]

I'll check that out, either just getting the ZJ part or Andy's. Living here in the southeast, all the wheeling spots are at least 45 minute drive or more, so I need to keep the road manners.

Road manners are good, something I insist on too

[07Negative]

ZJ is what I meant. Goes to show you what I know.