PDA

View Full Version : Lift kit installation for a rookie



Kimber6331
08-23-2012, 03:13 PM
Ok so let me start off by confessing I have been on this thread for a couple years and have gotten some decent knowledge but have Close to no experience rebuilding or modifying xjs or any vehicles for that matter. Besides changing oil, tires, headlights, radio, replacing A/C compressor, and taking out carpet and headliner, I haven't really worked on my 2001 xj a whole lot. That being said, I have ordered a 4.5" lift kit from rough country ( Coil springs, upper/lower control arms, T case drop kit, adj. track bar, Ext. brake lines, and sway bar disconnects, new leaf springs, u bolts, and shocks). I planned on getting this installed professionally at a 4x4 garage because of my lack of experience and Walmart tools. Being naive i expected around 350-400. However, after getting an estimate of 750-800, I have recently decided I am going to learn how to install a lift kit on my xj the hard way. I actually don't plan on installing it until I have the 32" tires ready to slap on when I am done, due to the need for alignment. So the point of this thread is to prepare myself to take on this task with the helpful advice and guidance that anyone is willing to throw my away. I am probably a solid month from doing it so my questions before I start are 1.) what things can i start doing NOW to make this experience go as smooth as possible with the least amount of set backs? 2.) what tools do I need to invest in to again make this process atleast an enjoyable learning experience and not a nightmare? Any specific/special tools? 3.) what are almost guaranteed problems I will run into installing this lift kit? Just want to make this as least painful as I can. I will be posting pics and details when I start which again is most likely in about a month. As always any help, advice, 2 cents, etc. is greatly appreciated!

Mudderoy
08-23-2012, 03:23 PM
Ok so let me start off by confessing I have been on this thread for a couple years and have gotten some decent knowledge but have Close to no experience rebuilding or modifying xjs or any vehicles for that matter. Besides changing oil, tires, headlights, radio, replacing A/C compressor, and taking out carpet and headliner, I haven't really worked on my 2001 xj a whole lot. That being said, I have ordered a 4.5" lift kit from rough country ( Coil springs, upper/lower control arms, T case drop kit, adj. track bar, Ext. brake lines, and sway bar disconnects, new leaf springs, u bolts, and shocks). I planned on getting this installed professionally at a 4x4 garage because of my lack of experience and Walmart tools. Being naive i expected around 350-400. However, after getting an estimate of 750-800, I have recently decided I am going to learn how to install a lift kit on my xj the hard way. I actually don't plan on installing it until I have the 32" tires ready to slap on when I am done, due to the need for alignment. So the point of this thread is to prepare myself to take on this task with the helpful advice and guidance that anyone is willing to throw my away. I am probably a solid month from doing it so my questions before I start are 1.) what things can i start doing NOW to make this experience go as smooth as possible with the least amount of set backs? 2.) what tools do I need to invest in to again make this process atleast an enjoyable learning experience and not a nightmare? Any specific/special tools? 3.) what are almost guaranteed problems I will run into installing this lift kit? Just want to make this as least painful as I can. I will be posting pics and details when I start which again is most likely in about a month. As always any help, advice, 2 cents, etc. is greatly appreciated!

You'll want to "borrow" the strut compressor from Oreily's auto parts NOT the spring compressor. You'll use that to compress the front coils so you can get them in. Generally you don't need it to get the OEM coils out.

You'll need to spray the HELL out of the leaf spring bolts and the upper shock bolts in the rear. Depending on your climate you may want to hose all the bolts down each day for a week prior to attempting to remove the nuts and bolts.

WalMart tools are fine, I would however get some pipe that you can use as "cheaters" because some of those bolts are going to be tight. Lower control arm bolts for example.

If I were you I would start with removing the rear shocks. If you break off one bolt you can still drive it. :rotfl2:

Air tools really help, but aren't necessary. I paid about $300 to have my RC 4.5" lift installed on my XJ, but recently I installed a RC 4" lift on the wife's TJ and it took me 3 8 hour days. I spent at least 8 hours on the upper shock bolts that broke off.

Bottom line make sure you leave yourself plenty of down time for your Jeep.

07Negative
08-24-2012, 01:34 AM
Your going to need 1/2" for the control arm bolts. I broke my breaker bar on one of the bolts.
Like Tony said, those rear upper and even lower shock bolts are a whore! The other bolt that sucks is the bolt that holds the shackle in the shackle box.
Cars are only nuts and bolts. If you've got a dad or cool friend or 2. Invite them over to help.
Nothing on a XJ goes smoothly. So be prepared for frustration. Start early Saturday morning and work throughout the weekend. Flood lights come in handy. Once you get going and you make progress. You wont want to stop.
Make sure you have a camera on hand. Take pix and start a build thread. Don't forget to have fun.

bigjim350
08-24-2012, 01:40 AM
Sometimes it can be a real PITA to get the control arm bolts to line up when you are installing them, especially the upper ones. On mine the top of the axle usually needs to be rotated back when re-installing them. To do this I hook a come-a-long to the top of the axle and the other end to the "frame" somewhere. So I would buy or borrow one just in case, a strong ratchet strap will work too. Also you will need some tall jack stands so that you can put them on the "frame" so that you can give the axle full droop. And now would be a good time to check your rear main seal for leaks. Its real easy to replace it when you have the axle down out of the way.

801 xj ohh rah
08-24-2012, 08:43 AM
PB BLAST EVERYTHING I MEAN EVERYTHING!!!!!!!!!!!!! for 2 weeks thats what i did and the only problem that i had was cutting the spring because the bolt on the frame side didnt want to come out so i split the eye and took a razor blade to the bushing to get it out and put heat to it i used mapp gas and after all that cussing it came out didnt brake the nut off into the frame(thank god) so take your time with those 2 bolts

NW99XJ
08-24-2012, 08:53 AM
PB BLAST EVERYTHING I MEAN EVERYTHING!!!!!!!!!!!!! for 2 weeks thats what i did and the only problem that i had was cutting the spring because the bolt on the frame side didnt want to come out so i split the eye and took a razor blade to the bushing to get it out and put heat to it i used mapp gas and after all that cussing it came out didnt brake the nut off into the frame(thank god) so take your time with those 2 bolts

Good advice, those, and the shock bolts are going to be your biggest hurdles to overcome. I also opted to buy new leaf spring eye bolts, just to make sure the installation would go easier, and that I was doing a little upgrade at the same time. Jack-it makes a good set thats cost-effective. Great service, and quick delivery times.
http://www.jackit.com/suspension-parts/springs-and-accessories/spring-eyebolt-kits/jac1022.html

4.3LXJ
08-24-2012, 10:27 AM
Aside from the bolts mentioned, there are some tools you will need. A floor jack is real handy, but a scissors jack will work well, not one of the small ones. One thing that is required is two car stands, the tall ones that you can put under the frame. You will need to support the front or rear of the vehicle while you remove everything. An alignment bar is handy, long tapered thingy to align the bushing holes with the frame holes. You might need a tubing wrench for the brake lines. Some ratchet straps or come along to get that last bushing aligned on the front end.

XJ Wheeler
08-24-2012, 10:51 AM
Mainly what everyone else said but also,

Since you have the advance timing PB all the bolts starting now. Why not, two times a week. Give you the best possible chance to not break bolts.

Get or borrow some flare nut wrenches in the appropriate sizes to remove the brake hoses. That way you won't strip em.

The "cheater" pipe Mudderoy was noting is good, but only on bigger wrenches/ratchets. You put that on a 3/8" ratchet on a stuck leaf spring bolt and you snap that end of the ratchet right off. Or crack a socket.

If you can swing it an impact gun is going to be your new best friend.

Heat! If that PB won't do it heat is going to be your better option.

Never trust a jack! Since you're going to be lifting you're going to have to raise the vehicle beyond the height of those little jackstands. Me, i'm not one to stack stuff either to get the height needed. So, Harbor Freight has BIG jackstands that work great and their not too bad on price.

Its a great decision to install it yourself: you learn from experience, you get that sense of accomplishment, and you save so much $. The way i usually think of projects when it comes to money (other than saving some) is i can purchase the tools required for (usually) cheaper than labor and i then have them for future events.

Carves
08-24-2012, 07:49 PM
X 2 on all the above.

Seized/Rusty bolts werent an issue for me ... but Im sure the little assy line worker fell asleep - with the rattle gun going at 500psi ... when it was put together .. :D

Start checking you have all the correct size/type spanners & sockets now ... I got caught out when I found that my, long reach, 1/2" drive socket and breaker bar wouldnt fit onto the rear leaf front eye bolt ... and had to use a ring spanner/cheater pipe ...

... and I wouldnt put a ratchet drive on any of the large bolts/nuts until you get em loosened.


Scrounge up a few stands and jacks ... you might find em all handy ;)

http://i1143.photobucket.com/albums/n629/carves-oz/Tools%20and%20Test/Workshop10b.jpg

http://i1143.photobucket.com/albums/n629/carves-oz/Vehicle%20Bits/Suspension/RRSpring10b.jpg

Mudderoy
08-27-2012, 04:44 AM
X 2 on all the above.

Seized/Rusty bolts werent an issue for me ... but Im sure the little assy line worker fell asleep - with the rattle gun going at 500psi ... when it was put together .. :D

Start checking you have all the correct size/type spanners & sockets now ... I got caught out when I found that my, long reach, 1/2" drive socket and breaker bar wouldnt fit onto the rear leaf front eye bolt ... and had to use a ring spanner/cheater pipe ...

... and I wouldnt put a ratchet drive on any of the large bolts/nuts until you get em loosened.


Scrounge up a few stands and jacks ... you might find em all handy ;)

http://i1143.photobucket.com/albums/n629/carves-oz/Tools%20and%20Test/Workshop10b.jpg

http://i1143.photobucket.com/albums/n629/carves-oz/Vehicle%20Bits/Suspension/RRSpring10b.jpg

Damn man that's some nice prep work. I'd have to take a nap after all of that! :rotfl2:

07Negative
08-27-2012, 02:27 PM
If your looking for tall jack stands. Check with a RV parts or dealer. Thats where I got mine. I needed something to extend to 30 inch just to touch the frame rail. That was the only thing I came up with.

4.3LXJ
08-27-2012, 02:28 PM
Sears has them

xj4life2
08-27-2012, 03:40 PM
You can make extra tall jack stands by welding regular stands into and old rim, this also makes them more sturdy and less likely to move on ya. What everyone is saying is exactly true , but since you have time I sugest you go on line to RC site and print the instructions out and read over them several times so that its almost second nature to ya.Then when the parts arrive sort them by front and rear and lay them out accordingly. Lastly if your is like most XJ's the rear spring bolts will be installed with the head agaist the gas tank. Be prepaired to cut them off and replace them so you dont have to drop the fuel tank. Good Luck and mostly have fun doing it !!!

Mudderoy
08-27-2012, 03:59 PM
I got a set at Sam's Club, and as I recall they were pretty cheap. Plenty of lift on them. If I ever see them again, I'm getting a 2nd set.

4.3LXJ
08-27-2012, 04:02 PM
I have two sets of tall and two of shorts

nickxj94
08-27-2012, 04:06 PM
Got mine from harbor freight

Mudderoy
08-27-2012, 04:08 PM
I have two sets of tall and two of shorts

Yeah me too. I hardly ever use the shorts.

4.3LXJ
08-27-2012, 04:19 PM
Used mine when I fixed the locker

NW99XJ
08-28-2012, 08:47 AM
x2 on the Harbor Freight....Good stands, nice and tall, great price.
PLUS, if you look hard enough, you can print out a 20% off coupon to boot!

wolfsxj
08-28-2012, 10:15 AM
Also when hooking up the track bar hook everything up in the front but the frame side bolt. Then use the steering to line up the last bolt it saves time tryn to use straps and stuff.

Kimber6331
09-02-2012, 12:46 PM
Awesome info thanks! I def have to get a new jack. I have small original scissor jack, not gonna happen. As far as jack stands I have two but I want to invest In some taller/ stronger ones such as you guys mentioned. Plus i think there shorts anyway. As far as bolts/ hardware, are there packs out there that would pretty much replace the nuts/bolts/ fasteners I'm working with? cause I would love to just replace all the pos rusty crap. And how do I measure torque? I have a Hayes or something repair manual that gives pretty good directions on replacing repairing everything, but they mention making sure to get the torque right on bolt, fasteners, etc. is there a tool for that.......so right now I'm getting two tall jack stands, a jack that will lift xj plenty high(30"?), pb blast, and a new tool set. 300 pc starter mechanics kit from sears. craftsman! Should be some good deals at sears for labor day. What's an impact gun?

4.3LXJ
09-02-2012, 12:57 PM
Impact is another name for air wrench. Need to get a compressor for those.

You use a torque wrench to measure it. I never use one on suspension stuff. But when torquing bolts and nuts you need to know what grade the bolt is. Suspension bolts are usually Grade 5 or greater.

You will end up adding to your tools. I suggest and alignment bar, it is long and tapered. It will come in handy getting your links lined up just right.

bluedragon436
09-02-2012, 01:09 PM
What part of MD are you in?? The reason I ask is there are a few Jeep clubs that cover different parts of MD that I am a member of, and you might be able to get up with some of them and get some hands on help doing your lift... unless you'd rather just take it on by yourself for the learning experience which I don't blame you for.. I know most of the guys on the sites that I am referring too are usually pretty quick to enjoy a wrenching party to help a fellow Jeeper out, and they usually only charge some beer and some foodage... so grab some beer and a few pizzas and they'd be good to help ya out!! LOL Just a thought.. Let me know where in MD you are located, and I'll see what I might be able to find Jeep club wise that might be able to help you out...

Kimber6331
09-02-2012, 01:28 PM
Alright so alignment bar and torque wrench it is. Air wrench is up I the air I guess depends on price. Thanks. And I'm in central Baltimore county, town is called arbutus, relay, or halethorpe, depends on which side of the tracks you live on lol beer and food is a fair price. Saturday evenings and Sundays are only days I have free due to work and classes. And as my xj is my only vehicle, let's say time is a concern!

bluedragon436
09-02-2012, 01:55 PM
There are a few clubs that have folks near you that might be able to help.. You can join up and make some posts. Maryland Jeep Club (http://www.marylandjeepclub.org) they have a mod day section you could post up under, another one is Eastern Shore Jeep Association (http://www.easternshorejeep.com).. they are a pretty cool group of folks.. They are mostly located in the Salisbury, MD area, but they have people all over MD that are in the club... They also happen to have their own land that the members are able to wheel on.. it is a way closer option for wheeling other than driving all the way up to Rausch Creek,PA every time you want to wheel.. I am on both of the above sites, with the same screen name... They are both great group of guys to get to know, and to wheel with..

Carves
09-02-2012, 11:35 PM
.................. I have a Hayes or something repair manual that gives pretty good directions on replacing repairing everything, but they mention making sure to get the torque right on bolt, fasteners, etc...........


It might be worthwhile adding a chrysler workshop manual to your shopping list ??

Expensive from chrysler ... but theres cheaper, licensed copies available from places ... and dirt cheap, pirate CDs on ebay from time to time.

Someone on the forum can probably suggest the best U.S. based supply option.

bluedragon436
09-03-2012, 07:17 AM
Here is a link for a few different FSM and parts micro fische's (http://colorado4wheel.com/manuals/Jeep/XJ/) that you can download.. The closest FSM they have for the OP is a 1999, but that should cover you just fine for what you'll need for the lift stuff, as well as just about anything else that you might want/need an FSM for. I know there is another link that has a better selection, and I'll try and see if I can find it again.. if it is still up..

Kimber6331
09-03-2012, 01:35 PM
Awesome thanks for the links/ info. That will def come in handy. And as far as a fsm this book I have is extremely detailed in a huge variety of services but I will have to check those fsms out to get a better idea. You're right That 99 fsm should cover most everything needed. Have to print it out for sure.