Transmission Question

[EekGirl96]

So my Cherokee has eyt another problem(just seems to be one after another lately...ugh). She's not shifting into OD(the last gear) on the highway, on surface streets she does but not on the highway. This only happens every once in awhile but lately its been more prominent. Once I get off the highway, she acts "normal" again so its only a highway problem(when she acts up Ill be doing about 55 at 2.5 rpms which makes her start heating up quicker).

I have done a "flush"(I just drained out all the fluid and put new tranny fluid in), the old tranny fluid was dark but there was no metal in it. This was done last weekend.

Any ideas of what could be happening, like I said before she used to shift great and this wasnt a frequent problem until recently so im at a loss and worried that I may have to replace my tranny and I just dont have the money for that right now.

Thanks :(

[Mudderoy]

So my Cherokee has eyt another problem(just seems to be one after another lately...ugh). She's not shifting into OD(the last gear) on the highway, on surface streets she does but not on the highway. This only happens every once in awhile but lately its been more prominent. Once I get off the highway, she acts "normal" again so its only a highway problem(when she acts up Ill be doing about 55 at 2.5 rpms which makes her start heating up quicker).

I have done a "flush"(I just drained out all the fluid and put new tranny fluid in), the old tranny fluid was dark but there was no metal in it. This was done last weekend.

Any ideas of what could be happening, like I said before she used to shift great and this wasnt a frequent problem until recently so im at a loss and worried that I may have to replace my tranny and I just dont have the money for that right now.

Thanks :(

My transmission was acting up with the over drive for a few months, then stopped working all together. Shifted all the other gears fine. Ultimately I had to have the transmission rebuilt. The rings were worn out as well as the throttle body. 170k miles.

That's not the only answer to this problem, just mine.

[EekGirl96]

Mines coming up on 145k miles, I hope I dont have to rebuild it....even tho I love my Jeep id almost be tempted to sell it


FYI Its an automatic tranny, forgot to put that in there

[Mudderoy]

Mines coming up on 145k miles, I hope I dont have to rebuild it....even tho I love my Jeep id almost be tempted to sell it


FYI Its an automatic tranny, forgot to put that in there

Well most everyone else just goes to the junk yard and gets a replacement.

[EekGirl96]

Im not sure if id trust going to a junkyard, I dont want to spend the money to get something and have the same problem...I guess im just too overly cautious

[Mudderoy]

Im not sure if id trust going to a junkyard, I dont want to spend the money to get something and have the same problem...I guess im just too overly cautious

I'm the same way, just another problem to me, but people do it all the time.

[NW99XJ]

You could go to the JY, get a core, then rebuild it at your leisure. I believe they sell rebuild kits.

[EekGirl96]

Yeah I could, im just hoping that theres a simple fix lol

hoping being the key word here

[prcjeep]

Yeah I could, im just hoping that theres a simple fix lol

hoping being the key word here

the JY is an option, I always get the one from the lowest mile vehicle available. I haven't swapped my trans yet(it a manual) but i will need to soon.

Perhaps I'm wrong, but didn't you say that your man is a mechanic???

[EekGirl96]

the JY is an option, I always get the one from the lowest mile vehicle available. I haven't swapped my trans yet(it a manual) but i will need to soon.

Perhaps I'm wrong, but didn't you say that your man is a mechanic???

Yeah he is, and he's thinking that it may need a rebuild but im hoping someone else has a different point of view...sadly everyone is thinking the same lol

[prcjeep]

Yeah he is, and he's thinking that it may need a rebuild but im hoping someone else has a different point of view...sadly everyone is thinking the same lol

I was saying that as in, why doesnt he fix it? labor would be CHEAP! :D

If it wasn't for the help of friends, and other XJtalk members, I would have sold me Jeep LONG ago cuz I woouldn't be able to pay for regualr labor costs

[Mudderoy]

Yeah he is, and he's thinking that it may need a rebuild but im hoping someone else has a different point of view...sadly everyone is thinking the same lol

There is a solenoid that controls the over drive, as well as a TCM. The solenoid is about $50 to $75. I tried that first. I even have a spare TCM now, but just gave up on debugging the problem and had it rebuilt.

A complete set of solenoids is about $225 and very easy to change.

[EekGirl96]

He says that it would be a PITA to rebuild himself, he keeps saying to get rid of it too lol


He's more into manuals and hates automatics

[prcjeep]

He says that it would be a PITA to rebuild himself, he keeps saying to get rid of it too lol


He's more into manuals and hates automatics

HMM... have him swap in a manual AX15 then...

[EekGirl96]

Really? How easy? Would i have to crack open the tranny?

[Mudderoy]

Really? How easy? Would i have to crack open the tranny?

Nope, drop the pan and filter, they are all right there.

[EekGirl96]

Damn shoudlve asked before i changed the fluid but ill see if that fixes the problem i hope it dies

Thanks guys

[Mudderoy]

Damn shoudlve asked before i changed the fluid but ill see if that fixes the problem i hope it dies

Thanks guys

Just capture the fluid in something clean, and you can pour it back in.

[denverd1]

http://phoenix.craigslist.org/evl/pts/3190769397.html
parting out a cherokee

$300 for the tranny

[CherokeeNat.92]

The TPS and VSS do play a big role in your tranny shifting. Don't leave those out. Beyond that, the valve body and solenoids, under the oil pan are a great place to start. You don't wanna get into rebuilding and just because a JY tranny or jeep being parted out has a tranny that may work fine does not mean it will work fine next week. If all the other gears are working just fine and it does go into OD, doesnt shift all crazy like..you probably dont need a rebuild. It more than likely something simple. People give up and jump to rebuilding waay to fast. These AW4 tranny are good trannies.

[4.3LXJ]

Amber, one question. If you let off the gas does it shift into OD and then back out if you resume cruising?

[EekGirl96]

It will but not all the time

[EekGirl96]

Wait nevermind, if i let go of the gas it will downshift and then sometimes shift into overdrive but not all the time but no it doesnt shift out of overdrive when its in it

[4.3LXJ]

You might want to look into the throttle position sensor just for giggles then

[EekGirl96]

Ok ill check that too

Thanks :)

[Carves]

Havent had the issue ... and Im autogearbox mentally deficient ...

but for starters, in addition to the oil change ...

A clean of the neutral start switch ??
An inspection of the brake switch which has a contact for the TCM in it ??
TPS ??
and checking for bad earths/grounds seems to be an XJ "thing" ..

[EekGirl96]

Thanks carves, ill check everything out

[UpstateXJ]

Yeah, I am not usually a fan of auto's but prefer them when playing offroad. I can finesse them a little more.

As for the JY option, the local pull a parts have warranties here, don't know if they are the same around you.

[EekGirl96]

No you get what you get, some will make you pay extra i believe but it only lasts 30 days

[EekGirl96]

Oh and thanks to everyone else who gave their input, i really appreciate it

[UpstateXJ]

Hmmm, in that case I would look into getting it rebuilt. I used to have a 95 2wd and rebuilt the trans, engine and rear axle then sold it when I moved. Way I looked at it, was cheaper than a payment lol

[EekGirl96]

Still not a favorable option since we're getting a house and all the money is going into that...but if it comes to that idk, ill shop around just incase

[Cheromaniac]

The TPS and VSS do play a big role in your tranny shifting. Don't leave those out. Beyond that, the valve body and solenoids, under the oil pan are a great place to start. You don't wanna get into rebuilding and just because a JY tranny or jeep being parted out has a tranny that may work fine does not mean it will work fine next week. If all the other gears are working just fine and it does go into OD, doesnt shift all crazy like..you probably dont need a rebuild. It more than likely something simple. People give up and jump to rebuilding waay to fast. These AW4 tranny are good trannies.

That's the best advice I've seen in this thread so far.

[NW99XJ]

If you swap trannys you'll more than likely have to change the driveline as well. There's a size difference between the auto and manuals, and its enough that you'll need a different driveline.

One other thing I forgot to ask, is whether or not you've recently done a fluid swap (I thought I remember hearing/reading something about you doing this recently) ...if so, and if you used the wrong kind of fluid, the tranny wont shift properly.
It says that is is compatible with Dexron III, so you should be fine, as long as thats what you used.... Dex/Merc III compatible is what you want.

I would NOT use ATF+4, no matter what the bulletin from Chrysler from a few years ago says. Some AW4 transmissions can get by with it, but some suffer from some "slippage" with the ATF+4, which is a very different formulation.

Pretty much all automatic transmission fluid uses a 10-vis ("weight" is a misnomer, the proper term is "viscosity," which refers to the flow rate of the fluid, the ability to flow through small orifices, and the general "sticking ability" of the fluid on an open surface that is not horizontal)....It's more a hydraulic fluid than anything else.

The primary difference between automatic transmission fluid types is the contents of the additive package - detergents, corrosion inhibitors, foaming inhibitors, friction modifiers, etc. An automatic is not a "Transmission without a clutch" - there are in fact several clutches in an automatic! You just don't have to operate them, they're hydraulically-actuated wet clutches.

The problem you run into is the various friction modifiers. The Dexron (GM, Toyota, and other imports) uses different FM additives than Type F (older Fords) and ATF + series (newer ChryCo.) The old Mercon (older ChryCo) was close enough to the Dexron spec that they were eventually merged into Dexron/Mercon.

Type F did not have various generations - and it makes a very useful hand and parts cleaner (it's very highly detergent.)

ATF + series uses different friction modifiers than Dexron/Mercon - and you will get clutch chatter and slippage if you use +3/+4 in place of Dexron (particularly in the AW4. Even tho there is a ChryCo TSB out that says the new +4 can be used in place of Dexron, reports from the field are not encouraging.) <-- this may be what you're experiencing.

Dexron/Mercon series is what the AW4 (a Toyota design) wants. The box was designed for Dexron II, but the later specs (IIE, III, VI) are all reverse-compatible and should have worked well.

[EekGirl96]

Wow lots of info, thanks! I did change the fluid recently the problem im having occurred before and after the fluid change. Also if i do change the tranny ill keep it as an automatic.

[NW99XJ]

Well I was hoping that would help somewhat. And I was hoping (for your sake) that it WAS just a fluid issue, either in type or amount.
Good idea on keeping it auto.... Probably less work in the long run that way.
CherokeeNat.92 DID have some good advice..... you could try swapping out the solenoids first, even using JY ones to start the troubleshooting process. Easy swap and inexpensive fix if that ends up being the case.
GOOD LUCK!

[EekGirl96]

Thanks, im going to try the solenoids first,...hopefully thats the problem

[Xjcountry666]

Its a whole new or rebuilt 5 speed tranmission. I'm looking to put one in my 96 xj country .

[Delta 2 Oscar]

Just bringing this thread back up to see if a solution has been found.

[Comanche91]

Have you tried adjusting the Throttle Valve cable (commonly called the kickdown cable) at the throttle body? If maladjusted it will cause your AW4 shifting points to be all over the place. Takes no tools and about five minutes to do.

http://i182.photobucket.com/albums/x297/comanche91/TVCable.jpg

1: Push in and hold the release button
2: While holding in release button, push "conduit" in as far as it will go
3: Release the button.
4: Rotate the throttle to wide open, either with a helper pressing the gas pedal or hold the throttle wide open with the linkage.
5: The cable should ratchet out to it's correct position.
6: Your TV cable should now be properly adjusted.
7: Test drive.

HTH