P1222 help.

[Chaseweston]

My pcm is throwing p1222 on the key trick with the check engine light..

p1222= injector control circuit intermittent.

My jeep sometimes wont start and after only a few cranks it wreaks of gas.

there is an electrical connector that I unplugged when I was tightening my new belt. After installing the belt i forgot to plug it back in and after a few short runs (less than a minute) it wouldn't start again and smelled like gas.. When I reinstalled it I put some dielectric grease all up in the sensor because I play in big water.. BUT, I also broke the clip part that locks it clipped.. after using zip ties to keep it tightly connected it still threw the code and acted up.

My question is: could the dielectric grease being all up in there be causing the short in ground? or did it mess up somewhere in the pcm from being ran with it disconnected? if so, will it adapt back to being plugged in or do i need a new part?

Thanks in advance, Chase

[Carves]

P1222 ??

Was that the numbers the dash flashed up ... or have you converted the original 2 digit MIL number to the 4 digit P codes ??


Pics of - which - connector would be good.

[Chaseweston]

P1222 ??

Was that the numbers the dash flashed up ... or have you converted the original 2 digit MIL number to the 4 digit P codes ??


Pics of - which - connector would be good.


Its obd2.. you can do a check engine light code test by pulling the handbrake, turning the key from on to off 6 times ending in the on position and watching the check engine light flash keeping note of the number of flashes and pauses..

the code it threw per this method was p1222. some google searching and it seems to say injector control circuit intermittent. which would make sense because the connector comes from the harness on the injectors. i will take a pic when it stops raining.

[Carves]

Its obd2.. you can do a check engine light code test by pulling the handbrake, turning the key from on to off 6 times ending in the on position and watching the check engine light flash keeping note of the number of flashes and pauses..

the code it threw per this method was p1222. some google searching and it seems to say injector control circuit intermittent. which would make sense because the connector comes from the harness on the injectors. i will take a pic when it stops raining.


Admittedly mine are RHD ... however ...

All the OBDII TJ and XJs of mine that displayed codes with key dance trick .. only showed the 2 digit MIL codes ... not the 4 digit P code.

Tis why Im wondering whether you actually have codes ..

12,
22,
... and 55.

This would make the actual code of interest 22 ... which relates to the coolant temp sensor at the thermostat housing ...

... and if the sensor was not keeping the PCM happy ... then that might explain the overfuelling.

If it was the coolant temp sensor you unplugged ...

Plug it back in ... Clear the code ... and see what the result is.

Again ... If ... the CTS is the sensor you unplugged ...

... the overfuelling will probably keep happening till the code is cleared ... or until these FSM conditions are met ...

TRIP DEFINITION
The term “Trip” has different meanings depending on what the circumstances are. If the MIL (Malfunction Indicator Lamp) is OFF, a Trip is defined as when the Oxygen Sensor Monitor and the Catalyst Monitor have been completed in the same drive cycle.
When any Emission DTC is set, the MIL on the dash is turned ON. When the MIL is ON, it takes 3 good trips to turn the MIL OFF. In this case, it depends on what type of DTC is set to know what a “Trip” is.
For the Fuel Monitor or Mis-Fire Monitor (continuous monitor), the vehicle must be operated in the “Similar Condition Window” for a specified amount of
time to be considered a Good Trip.
If a Non-Contiuous OBDII Monitor, such as:
² Oxygen Sensor
² Catalyst Monitor
² Purge Flow Monitor
² Leak Detection Pump Monitor (if equipped)
² EGR Monitor (if equipped)
² Oxygen Sensor Heater Monitor

.... fails twice in a row and turns ON the MIL, re-running that monitor which previously failed, on the next start-up and passing the monitor is considered
to be a Good Trip.

If any other Emission DTC is set (not an OBDII Monitor), a Good Trip is considered to be when the Oxygen Sensor Monitor and Catalyst Monitor have
been completed; or 2 Minutes of engine run time if the Oxygen Sensor Monitor or Catalyst Monitor have been stopped from running.
It can take up to 2 Failures in a row to turn on the MIL. After the MIL is ON, it takes 3 Good Trips to turn the MIL OFF. After the MIL is OFF, the PCM
will self-erase the DTC after 40 Warm-up cycles. A Warm-up cycle is counted when the ECT (Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor) has crossed 160°F and has risen by at least 40°F since the engine has been started.

[Chaseweston]

Admittedly mine are RHD ... however ...

All the OBDII TJ and XJs of mine that displayed codes with key dance trick .. only showed the 2 digit MIL codes ... not the 4 digit P code.

Tis why Im wondering whether you actually have codes ..

12,
22,
... and 55.

This would make the actual code of interest 22 ... which relates to the coolant temp sensor at the thermostat housing ...

... and if the sensor was not keeping the PCM happy ... then that might explain the overfuelling.

If it was the coolant temp sensor you unplugged ...

Plug it back in ... Clear the code ... and see what the result is.

Again ... If ... the CTS is the sensor you unplugged ...

... the overfuelling will probably keep happening till the code is cleared ... or until these FSM conditions are met ...

TRIP DEFINITION
The term “Trip” has different meanings depending on what the circumstances are. If the MIL (Malfunction Indicator Lamp) is OFF, a Trip is defined as when the Oxygen Sensor Monitor and the Catalyst Monitor have been completed in the same drive cycle.
When any Emission DTC is set, the MIL on the dash is turned ON. When the MIL is ON, it takes 3 good trips to turn the MIL OFF. In this case, it depends on what type of DTC is set to know what a “Trip” is.
For the Fuel Monitor or Mis-Fire Monitor (continuous monitor), the vehicle must be operated in the “Similar Condition Window” for a specified amount of
time to be considered a Good Trip.
If a Non-Contiuous OBDII Monitor, such as:
² Oxygen Sensor
² Catalyst Monitor
² Purge Flow Monitor
² Leak Detection Pump Monitor (if equipped)
² EGR Monitor (if equipped)
² Oxygen Sensor Heater Monitor

.... fails twice in a row and turns ON the MIL, re-running that monitor which previously failed, on the next start-up and passing the monitor is considered
to be a Good Trip.

If any other Emission DTC is set (not an OBDII Monitor), a Good Trip is considered to be when the Oxygen Sensor Monitor and Catalyst Monitor have
been completed; or 2 Minutes of engine run time if the Oxygen Sensor Monitor or Catalyst Monitor have been stopped from running.
It can take up to 2 Failures in a row to turn on the MIL. After the MIL is ON, it takes 3 Good Trips to turn the MIL OFF. After the MIL is OFF, the PCM
will self-erase the DTC after 40 Warm-up cycles. A Warm-up cycle is counted when the ECT (Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor) has crossed 160°F and has risen by at least 40°F since the engine has been started.


I did do that, I plugged it right back in as soon as i realized it wasnt starting because it was still unplugged. ever since then it has acted up whilst being plugged in. I also un hooked the battery and attempted to clear the code that way with no luck. i dont think the actual sensor could have possibly gone bad since it wasnt even plugged into it. I'll disconnect the battery for a couple hours when i get home from work and then see what happens. thank you.

[Chaseweston]

The sensor in the bottom right is the one I unplugged and then stuffed with dielectric grease. It's been plugged in and stays plugged in yet still does sketchy stuff.. http://img.tapatalk.com/c6e4e416-bc6e-35d1.jpg

[Carves]

I did do that, I plugged it right back in as soon as i realized it wasnt starting because it was still unplugged. ever since then it has acted up whilst being plugged in. I also un hooked the battery and attempted to clear the code that way with no luck. i dont think the actual sensor could have possibly gone bad since it wasnt even plugged into it. I'll disconnect the battery for a couple hours when i get home from work and then see what happens. thank you.


To get you sorted and for my post to be any real use ... We need to confirm the fault code ...

Was it P1222 ... or 12, 22, 55 .. ??

The dash display is handy ... but it took me a coupla goes, back when I had the TJ ... to understand what it was trying to tell me .. :o .. :D

[Chaseweston]

To get you sorted and for my post to be any real use ... We need to confirm the fault code ...

Was it P1222 ... or 12, 22, 55 .. ??

The dash display is handy ... but it took me a coupla goes, back when I had the TJ ... to understand what it was trying to tell me .. :o .. :D

it does the 5 blink 5 blink at the end so Im guessing it is indeed the 12,22,55 you speak of. i thought the 55 was to signify the end of the test.

on my first jeep it had a digital readout which was sooo much easier.

[Carves]

it does the 5 blink 5 blink at the end so Im guessing it is indeed the 12,22,55 you speak of. i thought the 55 was to signify the end of the test.

on my first jeep it had a digital readout which was sooo much easier.


Yeah my TJ was all blinking lights ... Thankfully - this XJ gives the 2digit MIL code in the odometer display.

55 signifies end of display.

So presuming that 12 relates to you disconnecting the battery recently ... we can take a punt that the main issue is 22 and you need to ensure your connector and the sensor are mating properly ... so you can get the code cleared.


Just in case you want to test the CTS itself ... this is ohms test for it.

http://i1143.photobucket.com/albums/n629/carves-oz/Tools%20and%20Test/CTStest.jpg

[Mudderoy]

I did do that, I plugged it right back in as soon as i realized it wasnt starting because it was still unplugged. ever since then it has acted up whilst being plugged in. I also un hooked the battery and attempted to clear the code that way with no luck. i dont think the actual sensor could have possibly gone bad since it wasnt even plugged into it. I'll disconnect the battery for a couple hours when i get home from work and then see what happens. thank you.

That is the temp sensor. Do you have a coolant temp gauge or an idiot light?

[4.3LXJ]

To get you sorted and for my post to be any real use ... We need to confirm the fault code ...

Was it P1222 ... or 12, 22, 55 .. ??

The dash display is handy ... but it took me a coupla goes, back when I had the TJ ... to understand what it was trying to tell me .. :o .. :D

Good one Carves :thumbsup:

[Chaseweston]

Turns out it was the connection to the CTS. I played with it and cleared out some of the dielectric grease and let it sit overnight while I was at work. Cranked it in the morning and it started with no check engine light. I guess it went three drive cycles and cleared itself. Thanks guys.