Meet Blaqk

[NW99XJ]

Dropped my axle & truss off with Mike Shaffer yesterday at his shop. DUDES! This guy is badass! It's him & 2 other cats in their mid 20's. I wish I coulda got some pix. This place is like walking into a strip club full of the hottest chicks, but instead it's offroad vehicles. Nicest people too.
Ok... just one question..... Are they accepting applications? :rolleye0012:

[07Negative]

Actually he is. He's got 30 rigs to work on, but not enough qualified fabricators. Sure wish I had these kinda stills.

[07Negative]

Payed a visit to my axle today. Truss is welded up. Just gotta weld on lower control arm brackets. Will bring her home on Monday. Finish taking the internals out. Paid for the R&P today. Cryo treat next week.
I'll have pix in a few days.

[07Negative]

4.88's showed up today. I drop them off tomorrow for cryo treating. I'll be in Loomis to visit Dan at RuffStuff for a few odds & ends.
http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c159/07Negative/Mobile%20Uploads/image-101.jpg (http://s27.photobucket.com/user/07Negative/media/Mobile%20Uploads/image-101.jpg.html)
http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c159/07Negative/Mobile%20Uploads/image-102.jpg (http://s27.photobucket.com/user/07Negative/media/Mobile%20Uploads/image-102.jpg.html)

[07Negative]

These look nifty. I never considered these b/c they give lift. But I'll see how these boomerang shackles work first.
http://hdoffroadengineering.myshopify.com/products/no-lift-xj-shackle-relocation-brackets

[XJ Wheeler]

These look nifty. I never considered these b/c they give lift. But I'll see how these boomerang shackles work first.
http://hdoffroadengineering.myshopify.com/products/no-lift-xj-shackle-relocation-brackets

Interesting but i don't like having to remove the original shackle box. Although it would be quite a strength upgrade since the stock ones are a bit thin in my opinion.

Sent via messenger pigeon - i talk, he types.

[07Negative]

Well how about this for a jeep mod. I fricking want one!
http://www.omcoffroad.com/apps/webstore/products/show/3969153

[4.3LXJ]

Fun stuff Deejay

[07Negative]

I have no sense of time, dates, or holidays. Today started at 5a.m hanging out in the garden. Dipped outa the house at 6:30. Coffee in hand (2 cups even) by 7:15. On my way out to Loomis. Finally got out to RuffStuff and got a grand tour. Hung out with Dan & Dave for 2 hours. The whole time in just "Aw!" Dan is a mover and a shaker. Dude is brilliant. Man crush? Just a little. He's a good sincere business man & treats his employees damn well. Oh yeah, they have killer products too.
I happen to be in luck. Dude from Kickass axles is there. The place I was taking my R&P to. Instead of driving out to his place. He just took em.
Then it was off to Shaffers place. The crew was trying to get outa the place, to head to the Con. F250 and a few yotas in toe. I grabbed my axle and paid up. I pulled it into the garage and......

http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c159/07Negative/Mobile%20Uploads/image-103.jpg (http://s27.photobucket.com/user/07Negative/media/Mobile%20Uploads/image-103.jpg.html)

http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c159/07Negative/Mobile%20Uploads/image-104.jpg (http://s27.photobucket.com/user/07Negative/media/Mobile%20Uploads/image-104.jpg.html)

[4.3LXJ]

Looking real beefy there Deejay

[oderdene]

woow
Looks beefy

[07Negative]

I gotta admit. I'm a bit concerned with the R&P of the D30. I think I've got a thumb a little bigger. But I'm just going to follow through and hope it works out well.

[XJ Wheeler]

This must be what getting diamonds are like for women...

[07Negative]

I've been PB Blasting this axle for a week. The three bolts that hold on the unit bearings were not coming loose. Wouldn't budge what so ever. I had to take the angle grinder to it & chopped em off. So the outer knuckles are of no use or resale value. Kinda sux. Woulda loved an extra $20 in my pocket for em. However, the OEM shafts look great. After a little cleaning up. They should look close to new. Not sure what those go for used.
Now I'm having the same "stuck" issue with the bolt that's attached to the pinion gear. It's a touch rusty, but doesn't appear too bad. It's only been drenched in PB for about 2 hours now. I'm way too impatient to let this go on for a week. I'll chop this bitch too.
Still waiting on the gears. I gotta drive up to Lincoln to retrieve em. All is slow & steady. A few pix.

http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c159/07Negative/Mobile%20Uploads/image-106.jpg (http://s27.photobucket.com/user/07Negative/media/Mobile%20Uploads/image-106.jpg.html)

The damage
http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c159/07Negative/Mobile%20Uploads/image-107.jpg (http://s27.photobucket.com/user/07Negative/media/Mobile%20Uploads/image-107.jpg.html)

The shafts are pretty damn clean.
http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c159/07Negative/Mobile%20Uploads/image-109.jpg (http://s27.photobucket.com/user/07Negative/media/Mobile%20Uploads/image-109.jpg.html)
http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c159/07Negative/Mobile%20Uploads/image-108.jpg (http://s27.photobucket.com/user/07Negative/media/Mobile%20Uploads/image-108.jpg.html)

My current issue. Plus my impact gun sux. Came with the compressor
http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c159/07Negative/Mobile%20Uploads/image-105.jpg (http://s27.photobucket.com/user/07Negative/media/Mobile%20Uploads/image-105.jpg.html)

[4.3LXJ]

Almost going to cross paths today Deejay. I will be in a class in Folsom

[07Negative]

Folsom is still about a 2 hour drive away. But might be moving out that way. Not sure when though.

[4.3LXJ]

Fairly nice here today. Somewhat rural in nature

Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk 2

[bluedragon436]

Axle is looking good, and glad that worked out to have the R&P picked up by the shop while making another stop in checking out a great company!!

[Rocco83]

Well how about this for a jeep mod. I fricking want one!
http://www.omcoffroad.com/apps/webstore/products/show/3969153


Had something like this on my old CJ5, was homemade and cost next to nothing at all. Not sure how the California people would take seeing something like that mounted inside with the doors off.

[07Negative]

Steve: What class are you taking? I know it's not for welding.

Rocco: I'll keep the doors on when in town. Windows are tinted. I've got a pistol box in there already. Rotate a XD or a P226.

[07Negative]

Just ordered the last bit of remaining parts from WFO. I'm officially broke.

[07Negative]

And my buddy just bought a 2WD XJ that we'll convert to 4WD. Looks like my old car parts have a place to go.

[bluedragon436]

No point in them going to waste.. Maybe you can recoup a little bit of money that you just put into yours out of selling him the parts...

[4.3LXJ]

Steve: What class are you taking? I know it's not for welding.

Rocco: I'll keep the doors on when in town. Windows are tinted. I've got a pistol box in there already. Rotate a XD or a P226.

HERS Rater certification. I need it to get back into the tax credit business. My personal economy will be able to afford many more Jeep parts then :D

Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk 2

[07Negative]

That's the idear. I gotta get the miss' off my behind about money. There's more going out than coming in.
I'm going to have to say. I don't recommend anyone else doing what I'm building. It's too damn expensive.

[07Negative]

I've been PB blasting this bolt for 3 days. Today I applied heat. Damn thing still won't come off. Any tips before I take a cut off wheel to it?

[07Negative]

Had to exchange my high steer arm for a new one
http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c159/07Negative/Mobile%20Uploads/image-111.jpg (http://s27.photobucket.com/user/07Negative/media/Mobile%20Uploads/image-111.jpg.html)

http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c159/07Negative/Mobile%20Uploads/image-110.jpg (http://s27.photobucket.com/user/07Negative/media/Mobile%20Uploads/image-110.jpg.html)
Got all the brakes & seals & bearings. Now to figure out how they all get put on.

[07Negative]

Does anyone know where I'd find the torque specs on all these bolts?

[4.3LXJ]

Now that is a good question. You can always figure it out from knowing grade and size. Unless you use Caterpillar bolts, which go by a few pounds of torque and a 1/4 or 1/2 turn.

[4.3LXJ]

Here, try this. Only goes up to grade 8, but should be useful

http://www.portlandbolt.com/technicalinformation/bolt-torque-chart.html

[07Negative]

Did you intend to leave a link Steve?

[4.3LXJ]

Yup :D

[07Negative]

So with the ARP studs for the high steer arm. It is threaded on both ends. One side is 28mm long. While the opposite side is 40mm long. So is there a technical as to which thread side goes into the knuckle?
http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c159/07Negative/Mobile%20Uploads/image-114.jpg (http://s27.photobucket.com/user/07Negative/media/Mobile%20Uploads/image-114.jpg.html)

[4.3LXJ]

Short side in the knuckle

[07Negative]

And how does all this go together :)
http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c159/07Negative/Mobile%20Uploads/image-113.jpg (http://s27.photobucket.com/user/07Negative/media/Mobile%20Uploads/image-113.jpg.html)

[4.3LXJ]

It is like quasi evolutionary theory. Throw it all up in the air and when it comes down that is the way it goes together :P

[07Negative]

Here's how that turned out.
http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c159/07Negative/Mobile%20Uploads/image-115.jpg (http://s27.photobucket.com/user/07Negative/media/Mobile%20Uploads/image-115.jpg.html)
http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c159/07Negative/Mobile%20Uploads/image-116.jpg (http://s27.photobucket.com/user/07Negative/media/Mobile%20Uploads/image-116.jpg.html)

[07Negative]

It is like quasi evolutionary theory. Throw it all up in the air and when it comes down that is the way it goes together :P

Now that's funny :)

[4.3LXJ]

Looks about right. Noting like nice clean new parts

[07Negative]

Nice & easy to work on. Unlike all these other rust ol bolts. I still can't get that damn pinion bolt off. That thing pisses me off. And ball joints are just the most splendid things in the world. I heard the neighbor close their bc of my potty mouth.

[4.3LXJ]

Deejay, if you are having so much trouble with the pinion nut, pack that front end up and take it to a semi truck mechanic shop. They have bigger impacts that will take that nut off for sure.

[07Negative]

I have to look one up for sure. That makes alotta sense.

[07Negative]

having all these parts in front of ya, not knowing where they all belong, is rather intimidating. I'm looking at several exploded views to get an idea of it all. When talking to Trevor at WFO. He made this comment I believe the Spindle lock washer and nuts. If I screw up and don't tighten them properly. The wheel will come off.
So I'm guessing the rotor is held in place just by those 2 nuts and lock washer? If that's the case. That's bonkers. I'm so use to seeing my disk connected to the unit bearing. I'm working on posting the exploded views I've been milling over.

[07Negative]

Here's one I've been looking at over & over again.

http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c159/07Negative/Mobile%20Uploads/image-117.jpg (http://s27.photobucket.com/user/07Negative/media/Mobile%20Uploads/image-117.jpg.html)

[07Negative]

Here's one I've been looking at over & over again.

http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c159/07Negative/Mobile%20Uploads/image-117.jpg (http://s27.photobucket.com/user/07Negative/media/Mobile%20Uploads/image-117.jpg.html)

[4.3LXJ]

The rotor is held on one way or the other by the lug nuts. For instance our XJ rotors go on the outside of the hub flange. In this pic, the rotor is held on the back side of the flange. But either way, the lug nuts and studs hold it in place.

When you get to the bearings, let me know

[07Negative]

Yeah, by the looks of it. The wheel studs go through from behind the rotor, through the hub. But what keeps that attached to the spindle?

[4.3LXJ]

Generally there is a press fit involved. But if not, just having the wheel installed and lug nuts tight are what truly keeps it in one piece

[bluedragon436]

That'd be a darn nice problem to have.. figuring out how to put all those awesome looking parts together!! LOL

[07Negative]

That'd be a darn nice problem to have.. figuring out how to put all those awesome looking parts together!! LOL

Except when it came down to ruining your family vacation and now I'm pissed off bc ppl are unaccountable.

[4.3LXJ]

That is the problem with people, sometimes they don't do what you would like

[bluedragon436]

Yeah it really stinks when plans are ruined due to folks not being where they say they will be or aren't there to help when they say they will.. Hope it all comes together in the end though..

[07Negative]

There's no other way but for it to come together. Plus I'm learning a lot. Spending way too damn much. But meeting some cool folks between the way.
I just spent 4 hours in the garden, after working 8 hours at the J.O.B. Now in the garage putting the puzzle pieces together.
I'm pretty sure I've got knuckle, spindle, brake mount figured out. I'll post pix. Hopefully photobucket doesn't start asking for money due to uploads.

[07Negative]

So these are the studs that get pressed in from the inside or behind the knuckle. However you want to say it. You should notice how section is flat. I'm guessing 28-30% of the circumference is flat.
http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c159/07Negative/Mobile%20Uploads/image-118.jpg (http://s27.photobucket.com/user/07Negative/media/Mobile%20Uploads/image-118.jpg.html)
And this is why. 1st pic is behind the knuckle (closest to the U joint). Followed by a close up of where said bolt gets pressed into. Spindle stud I think it's called. DO NOT! And I mean DO NOT count on me for technical do dads. The hell if I know what this bolt is called. So anyhow.....
http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c159/07Negative/Mobile%20Uploads/image-121.jpg (http://s27.photobucket.com/user/07Negative/media/Mobile%20Uploads/image-121.jpg.html)

http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c159/07Negative/Mobile%20Uploads/image-123.jpg (http://s27.photobucket.com/user/07Negative/media/Mobile%20Uploads/image-123.jpg.html)

Sorry for being long winded. I'm partially retarded. So I just hope the next partially retarded person that finds this, can make sense of this shit

[07Negative]

So now that you got those spindle bolts pressed in. I said, fcuk it and used a hammer. Then you place the spindle in place. Well so I'm pretty sure.
http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c159/07Negative/Mobile%20Uploads/image-124.jpg (http://s27.photobucket.com/user/07Negative/media/Mobile%20Uploads/image-124.jpg.html)

[07Negative]

Well, then I got all goofy looking this brake bracket/backing plate whatever. So I looked at it for like 5 minutes wonder where I put my beer & thinking if I feel like eating a burrito. This thing is stupid ass big! Then I put a disk brake in my wheel.
http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c159/07Negative/Mobile%20Uploads/image-125.jpg (http://s27.photobucket.com/user/07Negative/media/Mobile%20Uploads/image-125.jpg.html)

http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c159/07Negative/Mobile%20Uploads/image-126.jpg (http://s27.photobucket.com/user/07Negative/media/Mobile%20Uploads/image-126.jpg.html)

[07Negative]

It turns out I don't have any cash for a burrito & they don't take plastic or IOU's. Thank gawd IPA is high on calories.
I started with putting this big ass brake bracket over the spindle. Picking back up from the B.S chin wag I'm having with myself here.
Where I left off pic
http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c159/07Negative/Mobile%20Uploads/image-124.jpg (http://s27.photobucket.com/user/07Negative/media/Mobile%20Uploads/image-124.jpg.html)
And with big ass backing plate over the spindle. I'm assuming the bolt tightens down onto to backing plate at this point.

http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c159/07Negative/Mobile%20Uploads/image-127.jpg (http://s27.photobucket.com/user/07Negative/media/Mobile%20Uploads/image-127.jpg.html)

[07Negative]

Now here's where I get all, "Duh!" I put the brake rotor over the backing plate from the last photo. I've got the hub in place. Here's what I come up with. And from my lack of experience. It all seems wrong.
http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c159/07Negative/Mobile%20Uploads/image-128.jpg (http://s27.photobucket.com/user/07Negative/media/Mobile%20Uploads/image-128.jpg.html)
http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c159/07Negative/Mobile%20Uploads/image-129.jpg (http://s27.photobucket.com/user/07Negative/media/Mobile%20Uploads/image-129.jpg.html)

The hub is doesn't have the wheel studs pressed in yet bc I don't know what I'm doing yet. I'm going at this shit like an erector set or Legos.
http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c159/07Negative/Mobile%20Uploads/image-130.jpg (http://s27.photobucket.com/user/07Negative/media/Mobile%20Uploads/image-130.jpg.html)

Thats a big ass hole. Nothing ductape will fix

http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c159/07Negative/Mobile%20Uploads/image-131.jpg (http://s27.photobucket.com/user/07Negative/media/Mobile%20Uploads/image-131.jpg.html)

[07Negative]

Now this is however, how I put together the rotor & hub. Nothing in permanent place.
Wheel studs from the back side of the brake rotor
http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c159/07Negative/Mobile%20Uploads/image-133.jpg (http://s27.photobucket.com/user/07Negative/media/Mobile%20Uploads/image-133.jpg.html)
Hug mated to rotor & wheel studs
http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c159/07Negative/Mobile%20Uploads/image-134.jpg (http://s27.photobucket.com/user/07Negative/media/Mobile%20Uploads/image-134.jpg.html)
And my prop, trying to finger this out.
http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c159/07Negative/Mobile%20Uploads/image-132.jpg (http://s27.photobucket.com/user/07Negative/media/Mobile%20Uploads/image-132.jpg.html)

[07Negative]

I know I'm missing bearings and the brake caliper in place & locking hubs. But if I'm on the correct path here. How in the hell does all this stay together? And securely?!?

[07Negative]

I kinda messed that up
http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c159/07Negative/Mobile%20Uploads/image-135.jpg (http://s27.photobucket.com/user/07Negative/media/Mobile%20Uploads/image-135.jpg.html)

[4.3LXJ]

That can be straightened out with a small triangular file if need be

[07Negative]

I have a set of opticians files that'll work beautifully.

[07Negative]

I'm i on the right track here Stere, with all the assembly?

[4.3LXJ]

As far as I can tell, yes. I will be in and out today. Working on the TJ so I will only be here on the computer for minutes. But I will have my phone with me if you need something. I will PM with the number.

[07Negative]

I finished with the ball joints this morning. Bent a piece of 3/16" in the process.

http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c159/07Negative/Mobile%20Uploads/image-145.jpg (http://s27.photobucket.com/user/07Negative/media/Mobile%20Uploads/image-145.jpg.html)

http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c159/07Negative/Mobile%20Uploads/image-144.jpg (http://s27.photobucket.com/user/07Negative/media/Mobile%20Uploads/image-144.jpg.html)
http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c159/07Negative/Mobile%20Uploads/image-143.jpg (http://s27.photobucket.com/user/07Negative/media/Mobile%20Uploads/image-143.jpg.html)

A little mock up
http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c159/07Negative/Mobile%20Uploads/image-146.jpg (http://s27.photobucket.com/user/07Negative/media/Mobile%20Uploads/image-146.jpg.html)

[07Negative]

Ok Steve. This is the brake setup. Hopefully I got everything.
Here is the dust shield/caliper bracket.
http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c159/07Negative/Mobile%20Uploads/image-125.jpg (http://s27.photobucket.com/user/07Negative/media/Mobile%20Uploads/image-125.jpg.html)

Here's a few mock up shots w a few angles
http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c159/07Negative/Mobile%20Uploads/image-137.jpg (http://s27.photobucket.com/user/07Negative/media/Mobile%20Uploads/image-137.jpg.html)
http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c159/07Negative/Mobile%20Uploads/image-139.jpg (http://s27.photobucket.com/user/07Negative/media/Mobile%20Uploads/image-139.jpg.html)

This is show a threaded section, what I can make out to be where the piston bolts up to
http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c159/07Negative/Mobile%20Uploads/image-138.jpg (http://s27.photobucket.com/user/07Negative/media/Mobile%20Uploads/image-138.jpg.html)

This is the piston put in place. Or what I believe to be the calipers new home
http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c159/07Negative/Mobile%20Uploads/image-142.jpg (http://s27.photobucket.com/user/07Negative/media/Mobile%20Uploads/image-142.jpg.html)
http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c159/07Negative/Mobile%20Uploads/image-141.jpg (http://s27.photobucket.com/user/07Negative/media/Mobile%20Uploads/image-141.jpg.html)
http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c159/07Negative/Mobile%20Uploads/image-140.jpg (http://s27.photobucket.com/user/07Negative/media/Mobile%20Uploads/image-140.jpg.html)

[07Negative]

Sorry. I used piston & caliper interchangeably. Meant brake caliper

[4.3LXJ]

Looks like it will work. Bolt her up

[07Negative]

After talking with you about the spindle nuts and you suggested I switch them around. I think they might work the way I got em. Since I put the bearings in. The hub does not hit that bolt or threads. I'll try to snap a pic of it. I'm a bit hesitant to hammer in the wheel studs. I think I like the idear of them going in straight. I also need more grease to do what you told me to do (the water thing in the spindles).
Oh and I need that one tool (what's it called?) for the spindle nut.

[4.3LXJ]

A spindle nut socket

[07Negative]

I'm thinking there's 5-7mm of space at this second between the two. Hard to get view.
http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c159/07Negative/Mobile%20Uploads/image-147.jpg (http://s27.photobucket.com/user/07Negative/media/Mobile%20Uploads/image-147.jpg.html)

[4.3LXJ]

Any amount is OK, as long as it clears

[07Negative]

I won't to able to do heims on the tie rod ends. The tie rod hits the diff.
http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c159/07Negative/Mobile%20Uploads/image-148.jpg (http://s27.photobucket.com/user/07Negative/media/Mobile%20Uploads/image-148.jpg.html)

[Mudderoy]

Damn you. This is making me want to spend money! :popcorn:

[07Negative]

Tony, don't do it! I've added up the total and I know I'm missing the itty bitty detail things and it came to $5,000. It goes real damn fast and I am no one to be spending this kinda coin.
But here's one more part
http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c159/07Negative/Mobile%20Uploads/image-163.jpg (http://s27.photobucket.com/user/07Negative/media/Mobile%20Uploads/image-163.jpg.html)

[07Negative]

So if you were to be off in equal length on the track bar & drank link. What's the absolute longest discrepancy that would be acceptable? With my Micky mouse measurements. I'm looking at 4" frickin inches. Could be less but I don't think by much.

[07Negative]

No sleep for this guy

[4.3LXJ]

You will want to get that as close as possible Deejay. You will have bump steer and possibly death wobble if any little thing is loose with those measurements

[07Negative]

Well I know that. I just hope my measurements are wrong. I've spent way too much coin for any negative side effects. I suppose sticking to an inverted T style steering is an option.......

[4.3LXJ]

Deejay, if worse comes to worse, you can bring it here and I will make you a new bracket so you can have a better length on that track bar

[07Negative]

Steve, you're too cool man, but I'm sure you knew that :) I may have to take you up on that.

[07Negative]

After going to bed at 4:30a.m. I shlept the axle down to Shaffers place. Took the pinion nut off in less than 2 minutes. I swear I got it loose for em. I love that guys garage. He's got so many cool projects going on. I brought the crew watermelon & peaches from my garden. The guy didn't charge me.

http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c159/07Negative/Mobile%20Uploads/image-165.jpg (http://s27.photobucket.com/user/07Negative/media/Mobile%20Uploads/image-165.jpg.html)

http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c159/07Negative/Mobile%20Uploads/image-164.jpg (http://s27.photobucket.com/user/07Negative/media/Mobile%20Uploads/image-164.jpg.html)

[07Negative]

I've got some parts up for sale if anyone is need in the sale section. I'll also have some others up here shortly. Coils, Ring & Pinion, 2 track bar setups including frame mount brackets, I've got some brand new braided brake lines for the front (6" lift), inverted T steering. If anyone is interested. Please let me know. I actually could really use the money.

[07Negative]

Welp. Don't think I'll be doing business with TNT any longer. Sadly, I've already got many of their products on my Jeep or sitting in my garage to be put on.

[07Negative]

Holy crap have parts gone up! Those 3 O rings for the oil filter are $18 flipping bux! Main seal $25 and oil pan gadget is $50!

[Rocco83]

Welp. Don't think I'll be doing business with TNT any longer. Sadly, I've already got many of their products on my Jeep or sitting in my garage to be put on.


Ok I think I may have missed something here. What was bad with TNT? I haven't done any business with them concerning my XJ, but I did business with them with my CJ5 and YJ with no issues.

[07Negative]

Customer service kinda sux after you've dropped almost 5 grand with them on one rig. I don't like being jerked around over a $35 part. Kinda weak sauce is you ask me. I was making sure the steering box spacer lined up ok and a bolt was off by 5mm. I asked for a new inner plate only. They tried to blame it on the gear box.
http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c159/07Negative/Mobile%20Uploads/image-166.jpg (http://s27.photobucket.com/user/07Negative/media/Mobile%20Uploads/image-166.jpg.html)

[Rocco83]

Yea man that is pretty weak. I fixed my gear box/spacer alignment problem with a BFH. Everything aligned perfectly after that.

[07Negative]

I finally sold some parts yesterday. Picking up my gears tomorrow to have them installed and got a screamin deal on R&P install.
I have a question though. When do the rear cut n fold of the rear fenders. I've read some people say they use a silicone to seal gaps. Why so and what kind of silicone? Same thing applies for the rear quarter panel tuck n fold. Why use silicone and of what kinda? Oh and. For the rear quarter panel area. When the plastic end caps are taken off. There are those mounts with rivets holding them in place. How does one remove these in a clean fashion? I was thinking drill them out? If so, anyone know the size of bit I would use?

I was going to do this over the weekend, but wanted to confirm. I have a pop rivet gun and whatnot. Thanks for the advise and kind words.

[XJ Wheeler]

Well, when you do either the fenders or quarter panel you're cutting up the area. The fenders it isn't bad but the slits you cut into the seam does open up to the inside. And the quarter panel as well. I used "seam sealer" from one of the auto parts stores that is meant just for this type of use. Its a tube, so you'll need a caulk gun and just run a bead along the seam.

[NW99XJ]

I have a question though. When do the rear cut n fold of the rear fenders. I've read some people say they use a silicone to seal gaps. Why so and what kind of silicone? Same thing applies for the rear quarter panel tuck n fold. Why use silicone and of what kinda? Oh and. For the rear quarter panel area. When the plastic end caps are taken off. There are those mounts with rivets holding them in place. How does one remove these in a clean fashion? I was thinking drill them out? If so, anyone know the size of bit I would use?

I was going to do this over the weekend, but wanted to confirm. I have a pop rivet gun and whatnot. Thanks for the advise and kind words.
I used kitty hair to seal my rear cut & fold up... its basically bondo with fiberglass fibers in it. A buddy of mine used the same sort of stuff you would use to seal a windshield.... he swears by it, and you can get that stuff in a calking gun tube.

The rivets for the rear bumper caps can be drilled out with a 1/4" or 3/8" bit, basically anything large enough to break the bond between the cap and the stud.... heck, you could prob even get away with one of those larger step bits/uni-bits...... the brackets will just fall/pop off at that point.
:xj-black:

[07Negative]

Did you use this kitty stuff for the both the rear fenders wells & the tuck n fold? I guess what I'm wondering is, do I need to treat the wheel well with said stuff?

[07Negative]

Today I'm doing the rear fender cut-n-tuck. It's pretty straight forward of a job. I'm using a die grinder & cutting wheel. Probably not my 1st option in tools, as it seems to take more time than need be. I think my compressor sux. It's constantly going and seems to have a short cycle. I'm going to pick up a pneumatic body saw & see if that works better on the drivers side. I'm hoping to get do the quarter panel today as well. But even with ear protection. This compressor is way too loud for 3 hours of work (one side). Anyway. Here's a picture.
http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c159/07Negative/Mobile%20Uploads/image-169.jpg (http://s27.photobucket.com/user/07Negative/media/Mobile%20Uploads/image-169.jpg.html)

35's should be awesome
http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c159/07Negative/Mobile%20Uploads/image-171.jpg (http://s27.photobucket.com/user/07Negative/media/Mobile%20Uploads/image-171.jpg.html)

[4.3LXJ]

Back is looking good Deejay

[07Negative]

Man what a work out. I was only able to get to 1 side today and I didn't even rivet the junk together yet. I would advise folks to do the passenger side first. Also make more and smaller cuts for the fenders. It looks much cleaner this way vs larger pieces to fold uner the fenders. Anyway. Here's the end of this song.

http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c159/07Negative/Mobile%20Uploads/image-172.jpg (http://s27.photobucket.com/user/07Negative/media/Mobile%20Uploads/image-172.jpg.html)

http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c159/07Negative/Mobile%20Uploads/image-173.jpg (http://s27.photobucket.com/user/07Negative/media/Mobile%20Uploads/image-173.jpg.html)

[XJ Wheeler]

Yeah, I second the passenger side first because the fuel filler makes the drivers side tougher.

[Rocco83]

Looking good. I think mine has rust out enough I won't have shit to fold.

[07Negative]

I was sent the wrong phuking gears!!!!!!!! I'm so pissed right now.

[4.3LXJ]

I don't blame you

[XJ Wheeler]

Ah man! They gonna fix it?

Sent via messenger pigeon - i talk, he types.

[07Negative]

Got the correct gears, but now I have to have them cryo treated again.

[4.3LXJ]

Bummer

[07Negative]

I just did the main seal, oil pan gasket, and oil pressure sensor. Everything seems fine so far. The transmission line is leaking towards the front of the Jeep. Not sure what that's all about. Fix 3 leaks and spring a new one.

[07Negative]

I've pretty much got the front axle together. I just ordered Lube Locker diff cover gaskets for front & rear. I was missing the rear diff cover fill plug. RuffStuff happily mailed me one. Again. I can't say enough positive things about Dan & his crew. Good folks & business ethics.
I did run into a snag with the locking hubs I had originally ordered. I went off of the parts list from Reid's website. But the hub they recommend is for a 19 spline. But RCV shafts are a 30 spline. So I ended up getting Warn part #36655. I believe it's for a rear Dana60 full floater.
I haven't completely assembled the axle yet b/c I have to lift it into my jeep & take it to a friends garage, to use his lift & make the tie rod & drag link. And I'll be putting in the gears for the rear. Unfortunately, I've got to run adapters to get the 5x5.5 bolt pattern. But I think I'm going to build this Dana44 I got. I'm picking up a Detroit locker for only $200 for it.
I am however a little stuck on something. What diff fluid to use in the front D30 w a Detroit? I did come across this link: http://www.eaton.com/ecm/groups/public/@pub/@eaton/@per/documents/content/ct_128302.pdf. I was thinking of using Lucas.

[4.3LXJ]

Mineral oil is the way to go I guess.

[07Negative]

My rear drive shaft exploded after work tonight.

[XJ Wheeler]

My rear drive shaft exploded after work tonight.

Ouch! Hope everything/one is alright.

Was it a stock shaft? I ask cause at least its not an expensive loss.

[4.3LXJ]

Details Deejay

[07Negative]

I got off work. Turned into highway 24 west. And the biggest blow out pow sound happened along with u joints hitting the floor board. It broke off at the transfer case. It was pretty dark. But I picked up the 2 u joints that came outa the pow sound.
Not a stock drive shaft. One of those $400 things.

[4.3LXJ]

Is the drive shaft salvageable?

[XJ Wheeler]

Is the drive shaft salvageable?

^this?

$400! Sorry man...

Sent via messenger pigeon - i talk, he types.

[07Negative]

I cut off the double cardan. I still have to source a new one. If it's gonna cost 200. I'll just buy a new shaft & hope to hawk it later. I won't talk shit about the hack n tap. But I think it sucks. It's not field repairable at all.

[4.3LXJ]

Is it the hack n tap that failed?

[07Negative]

It was my gross negligence. One of the u joints was pretty dry. The tabs on the double cardan broke off. So did the ones on the flang. I just order new u joint on Friday too. I planned on replacing them.

[4.3LXJ]

You driving around on the front axle now?

[07Negative]

Nope. Had it towed to my buddies shop. It was to be regeared this week and install the new front axle. But my g/f is kinda being an asshole. So getting around to fixing all this while watching a 3 yr old is going to be challenging.

[07Negative]

Talked to a local shop. They said the cost of welding on a new double cardan vs a new drive shaft is the same damn thing.
So here's what I'm taking out of this experience. Don't use a hack n tap souly bc it's not field repairable & you can't Mickey Mouse a fix.
New knowledge to me. A custom drive shaft can potentially cost $1,000. That's insane!

[4.3LXJ]

My Tom Woods shafts were around $400

[07Negative]

The upwards of a grand was for a KOH rig. I don't understand why Tom Woods shafts are so popular. It would seem to me that any driveline shop would be able to make a similar/same thing, no?
So here's where I'm at. For the 2015 calender year. I finally decided on what to do with the t case. I weighted my options. Atlas 2 or 4 speed. Most expensive option that I really can't afford. A Rubicon 4:1 T case, but every yoyo wants like 2 grand. At that point. Might as well get an Atlas 2 speed for a touch more.
So I'm choosing to go with the Tera low kit. It allows me to afford to slowly build up my NP231. It'll give me the more ideal gear ratio. And I can slowly buy parts as my bank account prohibits. I can do the thicker chain of the chevy or dodge. I think I'll go with the JB Conversion SYE this go around.
I just need a cheap fix for the time being.

[4.3LXJ]

Understood. There are two things about Tom Woods that has made them popular. Their warranty/customer service and the tubing they use. Beefy stuff. They used to advertise you could jack up the vehicle on the shaft and not bend it. So, in theory you could bounce it a little off a few rocks and not hurt it.

[bluedragon436]

I'd say hit up Ebay, I know there is a guy on there that sells the 6 planetary gear set, and the HD chain upgrade together for a fairly decent price.. This was going to be my plan when I was looking to do the SYE install on my 98 before I sold it... figure do it all at once while it was already out of the Jeep and open... Now that I have the 97, still have the SYE to install, I'm going to go this route and pick up the setup from the guy on Ebay and do it all at once.. PowerTrain Parts Plus (http://stores.ebay.com/powertrain-parts-plus/Transfer-case-parts-/_i.html?_fsub=5303410&_sid=369570213&_trksid=p4634.c0.m322) on Ebay. IIRC it was like $150 shipped for the HD chain kit & the HD 6 planetary gear set together...

[07Negative]

I'm going to probably read a bit more into the 231. I'm not particularly interested in saving money, if the products are not of quality. But I'll look into those items you provided. Thanks for the tip.

[bluedragon436]

These parts are of as quality as you can get out of other TC's.. I know a few folks that are running that setup through their 231's behind V8 swaps on a few different model Wranglers... and one that is running it behind a diesel conversion in his XJ and have liked it..

[NW99XJ]

The NV231's are actually a decent T-case. Granted, things like an Atlas provide you with the ability to run twin sticks, and offer better gear ratios.
The search term "Super 231" is what i used to plan my next T-case build.
A much wider chain, twice the planetary gears, and of course better gearing.
I have been running the H-n-T SYE now for well over 5 years, and I have abused the living shit out of it. Eric Zappe was running one on his for even longer than that before he went a different direction, and STILL comments on how durable it was....
YES.. if you were to snap the output shaft AT the t-case, you're screwed, but anything else shy of that CAN be trail repaired. All it is is a matter of carrying spare parts.
An extra flange, another double cardan, some extra u-joints, and a spare driveshaft, and you're in business... granted thats a lot of extra parts to tote around, but it's all a matter of preparation.
You're right on several counts... fully custom driveshafts ARE expensive. (probably why you see alot of the Toyota guys running home brew square tube drivelines) ... and everyone with a spare NV241 wants an arm and a leg for it.
The Tera 4:1 kit is a great option, and is a great alternative to a 241 or Atlas.
Keep in mind, that while running a double cardan drive line in the rear of your jeep, making a spare from a front XJ or ZJ driveline is an inexpensive way to have some peace of mind. Many driveline shops will cut or lengthen an existing driveline, and re-balance it for around $100.... and they usually will even give you a fresh coat of paint on it too!
I have been running a modified ZJ front driveline with a H-n-T SYE and that combo has held up unbelievably well. And if you've ever seen any of my wheeling videos, you'll know that I'm not easy on it!
Hope this helps you some in your quest... in know its mostly just me passing along my $.02

[07Negative]

Hey Josh. Where's the link to your Youtube channel? I haven't seen your videos.
Turns out the front drive shaft on my XJ is a touch too short and my flat flange on the rear shaft is not useable.
I was going to go ahead and order a new RE shaft b/c they'll only charge me 300 bux for it. I need a 34" shaft. Will a Grand front shaft be that long? It would be nice to pick one up as a spare.

[07Negative]

I'm officially broke! New drive shaft on it's way. Also had to order those off set tie rod ends, b/c the heims wouldn't work well. When you turn hard driver or passenger. The tie rod would hit the diff cover.
For the time being and I'm hoping it's a short time. I'm going to use my TNT track bar. I'm sure I'll get bump steer. Just can't seem to make stuff happen like I would to make it up to Steve's to have a proper & well built track bar made. Hopefully Jeep will be driving on freshly built axles & 35's on Tuesday or Thursday.
I need to figure a solution for my rear bumper. I can't afford the AJ's rear I want.

[07Negative]

Here's a cheap option
http://www.cassidyscustom.com/xjbumpers.html

[07Negative]

Tonight was an adventure. I wish it was the type where sex, drugs, & rock n roll were the norm. But no! If you think your ex wife was horrible at smiling like a dohnut. Let me tell you about extracting a PowerTrax. I'd seriously take a yeast infection, blue balls, & afat chick sitting on face, voting for a liberal; than to do this crap.
But while on my way home. I saw a lady in need. I changed her flat tire & refused her money. I can rest well. I always think do a good deed. Spread the love like manure.

[07Negative]

Nothing seems to work out nearly as smoothly as one would hope. Stupid PowerTrax didn't want to come out. Getting the torque spec on the pinion yoke was rather difficult. The wheel studs won't press into the axle flange.
So I'm going to freeze the wheel studs to see if that helps. Goofy crap all around.

[autotech98]

Sorry to hear that man.hope you get it straightened out

[07Negative]

3 of 8 springs broken in the PowerTrax. Good times. I gotta question Alloy USA QC.

[07Negative]

I know this build thread is missing a ton of pictures and much of an actual write up. But replacing someone else upgrades has turn into a pissing match more than anything. It's also hard to take pictures with your hands full of some sort of vehicle fluids. My iphone broke and I recently got a new one. So I missed a lot of opportunity to take detail pictures.
The important part is, I've learned a crap ton. I think that's the main objective. But I'd like to be as much help as I can and not fit the stereotype of forums. I try my best not to spread false information or even allude that I know it all. What I do know is this. They're only nuts and bolts. Vehicles that is. For how simple that is. That pretty much is what it comes down to.
Richmond Gear helped with giving the part number I needed for the PowerTrax No-Slip. This part number is for the spring kit for a Chrysler 8.25 with 29spline. I'm not sure if the same part number applies for a 27Spline. So here's the part number 8001001KAV. I got mine from SummitRacing. Richmond Gear does not sell parts directly. And SummitRacing has been nothing short of amazing! With shipping it cost $22.92.
My honest opinion about a lunch box locker (from my experience and nothing else) is that it's a P.I.T.A when servicing. But! It's serviceable! I'd rather have a Detroit though.
I didn't contact Alloy USA yet. And I will tomorrow (11/18/14) to find out why the wheel studs are so damn difficult to press in. All this work is being done at a legit shop where we work on a KOH and a rally rig, plus numerous other Jeeps and Yotas. A 20ton press didn't work. Heat and freezing the studs didn't work. pnuematic hammer didn't work. A BFH didn't work. I would suspect wheel studs would have been pressed in already or even supplied. I am a little disappointed in this. But I have yet to talk to Alloy USA. So maybe I'm missing information.
The front axle should be going in soon as well. That should go much smoother as all the hard work is done. Not its a matter of disassembling, putting that last few parts on, measure for steering.
I'll use the TNT track bar I have for now, since no one is interested in buying it. But I also want to save up for some Evolution heim joints for the track bar I want to make. Sorta still on the fence about that whole thing really. But no arguing. These things are serious pieces of heim joints
http://www.emfrodends.com/default.asp

[bluedragon436]

Look forward to seeing some pics of the progress.. Can't wait to start hitting up rebuild/replacement of the parts the PO installed in my 97... I would love to come up with building my own track bar and steering components, especially to build em up beefier then the stock parts, not to mention ones that fit and work far better especially when lifted and flexed out..

[07Negative]

I think depending on what you are doing with your jeep. There are a few already made kits out there that are great. I've installed 3 of Frank's steering kits already and I'm very bias, that I like them alot. Cheaper in price than anyone else. And they are killer.
http://www.seriousoffroadproducts.com/Serious-Offroad/Serious-Steering-Kits
You really can't go wrong here. Especially for us cats that can't weld or don't have the tools. It's a great buy, great guy making them, and they flat out funkin work!
Personally, have gone through what I've done so far. I would advise folks to serious consider the WJ knuckle swap for crossover steering over what I did. Assuming you are keeping the Dana 30. But keep in mind. You always do your steering last. You might even have to do a temporary band-Aid until you figure out your lift, desired tire size, weight of bumpers & winch, to level out the front. But the kit I listed above is a great choice in my book.
What will set you up for really good success for the track bar is to probably have it all fabed. These ready made kits are cool and all. But I don't understand how one could come up with such a device not knowing how your stuff is setup, UNLESS! you got all the lift, steering, track bar, etc from one manufacturer. Then I can see how they (the manufacturer) could make such an educated guess. And my little hypothesis here is not new information. But I've yet to find it in polite and rational words. Changing a vehicles ride height. Whether it be lowering or raising, changes everything. It is far more involved than some advertised lift kits leads you to believe. The full on honesty of it all, is that it kinda sucks to do. It's work, it's thinking, its expensive, It's messing up. Leading to more money spent. But between all that. There's beer, music, bullshatting, building relationships. Forming educated opinions, developing skills. Starting new projects. It's a can of phuking worms. It could either be wicked negative or insanely killer or even possibly something in between.

[07Negative]

This POS PowerTrax won't go back together. I fudged with it for 4 hours tonight. If my aunt or my friend Mike barrows me the coin I need for Detroit. I'm throwing this piece of sheit away. Funk these pos! So damn frustrating!

[07Negative]

So I got that bloody powertrax back in. I picked up a spring kit from SummitRacing. I had 5 broken springs after taking the thing out. Currently rollin on 4.88's in the rear (no front yet) and hoping to get the front end done soon.
Gas mileage is awesome!

[4.3LXJ]

:congrats:

[oderdene]

nice to hear that, well done

[07Negative]

More bad news. I'm getting a howling sound from the rear end after regearing it. Not that I really know what the hell I'm talkin about. It seems as if it can be one of two things. Bad setup, which I was there for and saw the pattern. It was clean and where it should be. Or a bad product. And if it turns out to be that. I'm going to be more annoyed with.
I've been driving a rental car around for almost a week and this is just getting ridiculous. It's seriously one thing after a damn other.
I'm under the impression it's the rear b/c I haven't put in my front end yet. I did install the rear shackles, which raises the rear 1.5" over the front, so I'm ever so slightly raked. I'm on a brand new drive shaft as well and the pinion angle on that visually looks okay. I'm not noticing a vibration. But yet, I'm paying more attention to the howling.
I think I'm crapping a brick a little bit about it, b/c I simply can't afford any fiscal carnage right now.

[4.3LXJ]

Hey Deejay, I would take it back to the guy that set that up for you and say "What's up with this?"

[07Negative]

That's about all I can do. But dude is booked to the gills right now and I need a vehicle. But I don't want to drive on it, JUST in case I have to get towed for the third time in 5 weeks time period.

[4.3LXJ]

You were his customer already. The job is not finished. You should take priority and go to the head of the line. Besides, you already paid him didn't you?

[07Negative]

I finally took in my jeep. Popped the diff cover. The PowerTrax isn't working right and the R&P is loose for some reason. I've only been getting power to one wheel (driver) for some unknown reason. The clutch part of the locker isn't getting the force it needs to engage with the right (passenger) side. It would less annoying if I had another reliable vehicle.

[4.3LXJ]

All the springs in? R&P loose. Check the pinion nut. You are supposed to use a new one each time

[NW99XJ]

Those require a friction modifier additive to the diff fluid, right?
I've heard that if thats not in there, or in the wrong amount, or of the wrong type... limited slip diffs wont work right.... but i could be misinformed.

[07Negative]

Steve. A new nut was indeed provided in either the R&P or the master install, one of em I know that. The Ring gear had/has some jiggle in it but when originally installed, it did not. So I'm not really sure what's going on there. I bought new spring kit. So it got all new springs. Here's what I did notice. There are 2 shorter but larger diameter springs, which have 2 small diameter but longer that go into it. But the big spring just kinda sits there not making contact

[07Negative]

To give a better idear. The first image in post 19 on this link is what I was referring to.
http://www.cherokeeforum.com/f67/need-help-installing-8-25-powertrax-no-slip-ma-99073/index2/

[07Negative]

Those require a friction modifier additive to the diff fluid, right?
I've heard that if thats not in there, or in the wrong amount, or of the wrong type... limited slip diffs wont work right.... but i could be misinformed.

I'm not too sure about that. From what I've read and what I think the folks at Richmond gear. Just OEM diff fluid is fine. But I'll double check that to make sure.

[4.3LXJ]

If the spring is not making contact, then it is the wrong one. The two inner halves need to have a small amount of pressure applied outward or they will not work right. Ring gear should not be loose

[07Negative]

That makes sense. It's like otherwise, what's the point of it really? I'll call Summit Racing to see if they can send me another spring kit. Maybe something was wrong or something.

[autotech98]

Hope you get it sorted. You sound a lot calmer than i would be

[07Negative]

Dude, I'm pissed off. It's my daily driver and all. Footing it for 5 miles in the crazy rain we had yesterday was not fun at all. And I don't mind walking. But we got 6" of rain here in just a few hours. No one pays attention while driving either. But what the hell can I do? Throwing a fit only makes me look an @$$hole and certainly doesn't speed up the process.

[autotech98]

I understand man

[07Negative]

Gotta call. The gears are shot. I really want to punch something. Maybe one of these granola protestors.

[4.3LXJ]

Man, tough break

[07Negative]

Yup. Tough on my wallet & soon to be feet.

[4.3LXJ]

There should be some warranty on the gears from somebody. I think the thing to determine is whether they were set up wrong or the cryo treating was bogus

[07Negative]

Dean at kickass axles did the cryo treated. I'm thinking setup but not sure how. Not that I know everything of course. But I was there for the install & was walked through the process. It seems the pinion go messed up some how. But now I'm sitting on an 8.25 & a bunch of quality parts for it. I'm just going to throw the dana 44 in for now. Really glad I didn't sell it. Now to take the lose in the cost of parts.

[4.3LXJ]

The 44 will do it. Personally, I would rather put money in a 44 than the Chryco. They are stronger and can be made even stronger if you want

[07Negative]

They are. Plus you don't have to dick around w that stupid C clip. But I had already had all these parts for long before stumbling across the guy who was about to lose his marriage due to the insane amount of car parts in his backyard. So I scored the 44 for only 200 bux. And to think I almost sold it.
So now I get to sell some bitchin 8.25 parts. Haven't slept since 1:30 this morning. Phuking dog bolts out the door as soon as I get home from a 10 hour shift & 3 hours of traffic. I'm ****in agro as shit.

[4.3LXJ]

Good thing you are younger than I am. I would be asleep by now regardless

[07Negative]

I should be. But I opened this bottle of what the heck ever whisky for a night cap. Shits ****ing disgusting! You can run a formula1 car on this stuff.

[07Negative]

So i'm debating how I should go about this axle thing. Actually selling the 8.25 that is. I've got a boat load of money into. Should I just sell it as is and be up front about the gears being jacked and take a major hit or get gears legitimately put into it and sell it complete? I'm not sure how warranty will be handled on this R&P. Everyone has said it goes back to the installer and how it was set up. But considering that this guy that did the install built a KOH rig and his own 80' toyota pickup and numerous other jeeps and yotas. I can't quite see putting blame on the install. And apparently its the pinion gear thats jacked not the ring gear.
Being the honest cat that I am. I wouldn't sell it in it's current condition and pan it off as good to go. I couldn't sleep at night. But I want to recoop the most amount of coin for it. It's trussed, locker, 1541 shafts, new shoes/pads, RuffStuff diff cover, all new seals. I'da been happy as a clam had this panned out better. I think the 8.25 is plenty strong and kind of an under dog of an axle. So I really wanted to run it. But that's not the case. What y'all think?

[XJ Wheeler]

I think you would get the most out of it if you part it out. I'm always.looking at parts and axles for sale and when i see a built axle i always wish i had the money cause they go far cheaper than it would have taken to build it. And most parts by themselves are usually not too much cheaper than new. Especially on ebay. Never see axle parts go cheap there.

Sent via messenger pigeon - i talk, he types.

[07Negative]

Yeah, kinda what I was thinking also. I don't do Ebay. But Craigslist and word of mouth from all the cats that come and go through my buddies garage outa sell things off. It's a good thing I didn't weld that truss on yet.
I haven't seen any built axles in my neck of the woods up for sale. Then again. I for the most part only see stock XJ's and then trailered rigs. So I'm thinking dudes are using tons and whatnot.

[XJ Wheeler]

Yeah, kinda what I was thinking also. I don't do Ebay. But Craigslist and word of mouth from all the cats that come and go through my buddies garage outa sell things off. It's a good thing I didn't weld that truss on yet.
I haven't seen any built axles in my neck of the woods up for sale. Then again. I for the most part only see stock XJ's and then trailered rigs. So I'm thinking dudes are using tons and whatnot.

True. There's not a ton of axles for sale here either, at least for an xj.

Sent via messenger pigeon - i talk, he types.

[07Negative]

Next mod http://www.bumperdumper.com

[4.3LXJ]

Haha, don't forget with a taller lift and tires you need a taller bucket :D

We have something similar for in the tent with a seat that fits a bucket and disposable bag. Very handy in the cold nights. Saves a hike to the outhouse

[Brasscatz]

LOL nice! I wonder if they have trailer hitch bidets in France :D

[07Negative]

So my Jeep has been sitting (now with flat tires) for two months due to a jacked up Pinion gear. So I went out and bought a 2006 Dodge 5.9 Cummins with only 40K miles. One owner. Non smoker. Non molested. Only upgrade is a Jack brake.

[4.3LXJ]

Probably a better commuter for you, plus now you have a good tow rig :D

[07Negative]

I bought it up in Auburn. On the way back to the bay. I got (according to the digital read out at least) 23.1 mpg. Way better than the XJ and this 5.9 has balls! I guess I'll have to save for a 10 or 12 ft trailer now. Not sure where I'd park it though. I don't have that much space at my house.

[4.3LXJ]

Trailers are sure nice, I use mine several times a year without having to tow Jeeps

[abebehrmann]

So my Jeep has been sitting (now with flat tires) for two months due to a jacked up Pinion gear. So I went out and bought a 2006 Dodge 5.9 Cummins with only 40K miles. One owner. Non smoker. Non molested. Only upgrade is a Jack brake.


Nice! I am sufficiently jealous. I love the clatter of a Cummins.

[07Negative]

Well. If you'd like to experience some of my bliss. I'd be way more than happy to forward you the car note payments :) I haven't had a car payment in 16 years. I generally pay in cash. XJ's are cheap.
But other than that, it's pretty damn cool of a truck. The interior is about as cheap as you could get. The Chevy & Fords interior is way nicer compared to Dodge interiors. Too bad Ford has a hard time having a reliable power train. I couldn't find a used Duramax except 2 two. 1 of which was brand new at the tune of 63K. And a 06' GMC. I'm not really bias on brands. But I was disappointed with how the GMC drove. I don't think I like IFS front suspensions on trucks. The duramax/Allison and the Fords for that matter. Are a bit sluggish. As soon as I drove the Dodge, I felt like I was in a sports car. And the GMC had BOSE sound in it. Buy. Other. Sound. Equipment. Sound like crap. But decked out in leather and a campershell with a carpet kit in the bed. So I took the Dodge especially since my g/f was stoked about it even.

[07Negative]

It's been a long while. I'm on & off with a presents of an online life (if you wanna call it that). I went to work in the oil patch out in NoDak for a year. I planned on longer. But the industry unfortunately went, pop! I've had this Dodge for almost 2 years now & frankly it's a piece of shit.
The Jeep has been a slow process due to things. And it's on Non Op right now b/c it won't pass smog b/c of the crack in the manifold. This $500 header turned out to be a piece of crap. I've welded 3 times already. So I'm thinking one of two things. 1) go back to OEM or 2) fork out another $500 for a Banks & see if I get better results. I'm thinking I'd rather shift that $500 into the Tera 4:1 transfercase kit though.
After dumping a good chunk of change into my 8.25 rear end. The gears chipped. Swapped in the Dana44 with 4.88's & a Detroit locker. Still running stock shafts & drums. I've got a little bit of building to do on it. I'd like to have it setup equally as nice as that 8.25. Which had a RuffStuff diff cover, locker, truss, & disk brakes from a KJ, 4.88's, & Alloy USA shafts. I ended up selling it for a scant $400 & a 6 pack of IPA.

[07Negative]

http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c159/07Negative/IMG_5581.jpg (http://s27.photobucket.com/user/07Negative/media/IMG_5581.jpg.html)

http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c159/07Negative/IMG_5579.jpg (http://s27.photobucket.com/user/07Negative/media/IMG_5579.jpg.html)

http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c159/07Negative/IMG_5674.jpg (http://s27.photobucket.com/user/07Negative/media/IMG_5674.jpg.html)

http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c159/07Negative/IMG_5582.jpg (http://s27.photobucket.com/user/07Negative/media/IMG_5582.jpg.html)

http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c159/07Negative/IMG_5576.jpg (http://s27.photobucket.com/user/07Negative/media/IMG_5576.jpg.html)

http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c159/07Negative/IMG_5575.jpg (http://s27.photobucket.com/user/07Negative/media/IMG_5575.jpg.html)

[07Negative]

I still have a few odds & ends to install. AGR Steering gear box, AGR power steering pump, drill for the 4th hole, weld in this spacer for the 4 hole box spacer. Then I'll have all the parts on Blaqk, that I've been hoarding for a number of years. Next set plans (aside from getting it street legal again). Is a rear bumper. I don't have one at all. And highway patrol will be quick to pull me over. Finish building the rear end & do the Tera 4:1 kit. And somewhere between all that, get the 2x6 rocker panel/rock sliders installed. Not sure how I'm going to afford this stuff since my personal economy blows ass right now. But those are the plans for now. And after that. Gutting the interior and doing a hybrid cage & replacing interior with sheet metal & Beard seats. By the time that's done. I'm thinking a 5.3L swap.

[4.3LXJ]

That is a nice looking front end there Deejay. not much more you could do to that

[07Negative]

Not really. Some C guesses, Anti Rock sway bar & that's about it. The geometry is pretty much perfect. The track bar could have come up (axle end) maybe 3/8". But as it is. I track just fine, no dead spot in steering, no DW or shimming. It drives great! After installing it. I couldn't. Eli eve I had lived with that horrid inverted T steering for so long.
I sure miss driving it though. I drive it up and down the local streets. But that's about it.
I think I've got to switch out the brake master cylinder or something. The brakes are very mushy. And when I go to swap in rear disk brakes. I doubt the OEM Jeep parts are going to put enough pressure on the calipers.

[4.3LXJ]

Well OK, I probably never will quit modding either :D