In need of info for my axle build

[07Negative]

I scored fat last night. I picked up a Dana 44 from a 89 XJ for $200. I want to build it up. I've never built a differential before b/c I've been to scared of em for some reason.
I was wondering if there is any literature or manuals that I can read to get a understanding of a Dana 44 anatomy if you will. I've been using the search engine but I haven't found much yet.
The plan of attack is to take it apart. Clean it up and repaint. Alloy inners, Disk break conversion, 4.56 gears, still debating between which locker. I either stick to what I know, which is a Detroit. Or try out a E-Locker.

I've also got another HP Dana 30 which I'm doing the hybrid 30/44 with Reid's knuckles. But since the knuckles and a set of CTM U joints are a $1,000. I'm putting my money into the rear axle first.

[4.3LXJ]

Nice score! We don't have any differential set up info on here. I have done them, but you need a way to press bearings on and off and measure backlash with a dial indicator on a magnetic base. But other than that, the mechanics are straight forward. To make it work for an XJ, you will need to do some welding. As far as anatomy, one of the best places to start is the exploded view of the front axle in the 4WD catalogue, which is free. The high pinion 30 has the exact same design as the 44, except for the pinion position. But they go together the same. As far as the high dollar U joints go, the ears on the shafts go first. For your use, which is mostly highway driving, I would go with the E locker over the Detroit. But having hubs helps that situation out.

[07Negative]

I went to google pictures and found that exploded view. I've got it saved and I'm trying to get myself acclimated to parts list and verbage.
You said welding. But from my understanding and why I jumped on this axle. Is so that there is no fabricating involved. However I was looking over the leaf perches and I think I do want them replaced with some RuffStuff ones instead. Did my naive mind leave out some details?

Complete side note. While driving to work this morning. I was thinking how I'd like to do a rather thorough write up and have a more experienced mechanic edit my words to make the write up automotively (I know thats not a real word) correct. I'd like to make it comprehensive to guys like myself.

I think I am leaning towards the E-Locker. Frank @ serious off road products has been advising me to go this way as well. For the D30. I will be doing lock outs which I was then thinking to stick with Detroit. But then I could always just do the matchy matchy thing and stick with E-Locker as well. From my understanding, either way I go (speaking of the D30). It will be replacing the vulnerable carrier which would then pretty much leave the ring gear and pinion as my weakest links/parts. My angle to that would be to cryro the ring and pinion, to give it the best chance it has.

I've done the Rubicon 4 times this summer. I managed to spend a ton of time in the Sierras this summer, which I'm grateful for. But I have to pussy foot around certain routes b/c of my current setup.
I think my over all objective to this XJ is to not make it the best it can be as a rock crawler. But instead make it the jack of all trades a master of none, but still to its best ability. After all, it is a unibody. And without extensive fab work, skills I don't possess. It would probably fail prematurely if I pushed it in the direction of a rock crawler. I think I'm more fond of the "Over Land" style of things. I love road trips and actually don't mind living out of the XJ for long periods of time. I already lived 4 months out of it.

[4.3LXJ]

Dee Jay, Are we talking a 44 rear here and keeping the D30 front? I understood 4 front

[07Negative]

Oops. Sorry if I was unclear. I score a rear D44. Which came out of a 89XJ. While I was at this guys house. He just gave me another HP D30.
The reason why I took that D30 is so that I can build it up while rolling on my existing D30. Though I'm learning I need another car. All my friends flake on me to help me work on my Jeep. So most of the time I end up not able to drive my jeep b/c I couldn't finish on time or I break bolts.

This guy, whom I found on craigslist the other night. Has been fighting a marriage ending decease. He's a Jeep hoarder. He has 3 wrangler rubicons, 2 ZJ's, 5 XJ's and enough parts to stock a Chrysler Service department.

His wife has been in Ireland for a month. Before she left. She told him to get rid of what he absolutely doesn't need. Before I got to his house. I was imagining some white trash hillbilly. But I was so wrong! Dude was educated, well groomed, slim, and full of energy. He had everything organized. Everything labeled and in order. I even needed a cotter pin. He had this drawer system with all the different sizes.

The axle I picked up was stored indoors. The drums on the D44 have typical surface rust. But nothing else has rust on it. The D30 is in the same shape, just with worn out bushings. He also gave me 3 mopar oil filters, rear hatch shocks (still in the plastic), random pieces for my jeep that are worn on my jeep but brand new from his garage. I got a free fuel pump, steering dampener. And some other odds and ends.

Sorry for all the rambling. I still haven't replaced my digital camera that was stolen from when my house was broken into. But I really need to start a build thread. But without pictures. It'll be boring or people wont believe yeah.

My girlfriend got me a TNT Customs D30 truss with all the trimmings. So the D30 will be getting chopped up. And by the end of that axle build. I will have demonstrated how to waste a crap load of money and time. But first. I need to learn what the hell I'm doing.

[4.3LXJ]

OK, that will be much simpler. I really don't think you need to worry about the spring mounts. I have never had a stock mount fail. The really hot thing to do the 44 is a locker with 35 spline alloy shafts. The ARB and Detroit allow those options IIRC. So I think that now that we are talking rear locker, the Detroit would work well for you. But I would advise you to have someone set up the gears for you. If you aren't set up for it, you could be in for a major pain in the ass. Like I said, I have set them up, but I have the stuff for it and I got educated by someone who has set up enough of them he doesn't need the dial indicator. Does it all by feel.

As far as the front goes, the hybrid is a good idea. Gives you hubs and spindles which is much better. Unit bearings never were a good idea for serious wheeling. Going that way myself.

[07Negative]

Unfortunately, I don't have any cool friends that know much about the installation of ring and pinion. Which is why I want to read about it. I don't mind buying the tools (assuming they wont cost me my first born). I know about not lining them up right and it's repercussions. So I will avoid those mistakes.
I just emailed Frank. On his site there is a 35 spline option but it states that it's for a TJ
http://www.seriousoffroadproducts.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=545_555&products_id=91530
So I'm unclear about that. I think I'd be limited to which locker. I do not want ARB lockers. Overly expensive and I think too complex. I like the simplicity of the Detroit, like what i have now.
So perhaps Detroit's both up front and in the rear?
I plan on buying at least one new part each month. More if I can afford it or depending on which part we're talking. Lockers are not cheap.
I'm also second guessing my ideal of switching from Leafs to coil and links for the rear. I'd really like to be able to drive a XJ that has had the conversion done so I can see if it's what I'd really want.
I know leafs have great stability. And since I'm not a avid rock crawler. I'm not sure I would get the cost to benefit ratio for undertaking such a task. If I stick to leafs. A truss is only $150 or so.

[4.3LXJ]

If you want the stability of the leaves with a coil, you need to throw in a pair of Currie AntiRocks with them.

On that note, I found a set of coils I would like to try at the pick n pull. Aerostar rear coils. 19" long with progressive rate.

[07Negative]

I was peeping those Anti-Rock but it was for the front. Do they make one for the rear as well? I had also read that one could with the right knowledge. Piece one of those kits together for far cheaper than a Currie setup. True? The design of them look like something from a street rod.

So would you be putting these coils in the front end or are you going to coil & link your rear as well?

[4.3LXJ]

To answer your question, yes it can be done cheaper. Looking into it. I know what I want, I just need to find the forge to have it tempered. Currie makes custom lengths of the torsion bar, so it can be done on the rear also.

The coils would be for the rear. It will take some experimentation, but I think those are the ones that will come closest to what I want when the time comes.

[07Negative]

I figured as much. I can't wait to get off work to start with this axle. I'll use my g/f camera. Is Photobucket still the only way to post images on this forum?

[4.3LXJ]

You can post directly from your desktop now.

[oderdene]

You can find useful info from:
http://www.pirate4x4.com/articles/tech/billavista/Gear_Setup/

http://www2.dana.com/pdf/AXSM-0053.pdf

http://www2.dana.com/pdf/5310-3.pdf

[07Negative]

That first link looks like heavy ready reading. I like it! Thank you for that.
I'll go through the PDF's on my home computer. Thanks a lot!

[xjrev10]

I have the book "Differentials" from Randy's Ring and Pinion. It's a excellent reference for anything axle related. Think it's about 30 bucks from Randy's or other automotive book stores. Lots of neat stuff to learn about axles, and that book shows and tells nicely. I have the first edition, I know there is a second edition...

[Mudderoy]

I have the book "Differentials" from Randy's Ring and Pinion. It's a excellent reference for anything axle related. Think it's about 30 bucks from Randy's or other automotive book stores. Lots of neat stuff to learn about axles, and that book shows and tells nicely. I have the first edition, I know there is a second edition...

Is this it?

Amazon.com: Differentials: Identification, Restoration & Repair - 2nd Edition: Books@@AMEPARAM@@http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/417K8o3GchL.@@AMEPARAM@@417K8o3GchL

[07Negative]

That's the book I found. I'm going to pick it up from online.
Now I'm looking into do a rear disc brake conversion. I've found a few things. But I'm wondering is there a good, better, best kind of setup?
Does anyone have experience with this?

[4.3LXJ]

PM Abovetimberline. He has done the whole ZJ brake package

[07Negative]

Thanks for the lead Steve. I sent him a PM. I did find things online and from other forums. I know there is more than one way to skin a cat on this approach. I'd like to collect as much info from folks to see what is the better route to take.

[07Negative]

Will the Dana 44 Rear also need a master install kit like the front Dana 30? Trying to put together a parts list.

[4.3LXJ]

Yes.

[07Negative]

So here's what I've got so far on this shopping list.
1) disc brake conversion
2) 33spline axle kit which Im not sure what it all comes with. I have to call Alloy USA
3) Detroit locker for 33 spline. Seems to be only ARB makes a 35 spline locker.
4) Ring and pinion with master install kit
5) Diff cover (ruffstuff of course)
6) 5x5.5 wheels (I want to switch from the 5x4.5).
Am I missing anything?

[4.3LXJ]

That depends on how far you want to go. Your current U joints are 1310 series, about as small as they go. 1330 is normal D44 stuff, and sometimes 1350. I have 1350s on my Jeep since CVs only come in two sizes, 1310 and 1350. Of course you are talking a new driveline.

[07Negative]

Good call! And I was going to do a new Woods drive shaft since mine is looking a bit beat. So 1350 it is!
I'll be starting with the least expensive items first. Start stacking up parts like I'm known for.

[07Negative]

on parts like: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/YGA-41021/

[07Negative]

So I got some time in with the angle grinder. It wasn't with the Dana 44, but rather the Dana 30. I'm trying to remove all the brackets from it. Took about 15 minutes to get the axle onto the saw horses by myself. Then another 30 minutes just to cut off the upper control mount. I have yet to grind off the weld. Time stamp on that will be for a later post. My hands are still numb from the process.
It feels like pretty official business cutting away at all it's mounts. The smell of the finish being taken off with a wire brush is unlike roses. Reminds me of burning hair. Some how I got my thumb too close to the cut off wheel and I started a small grass fire. I suggest wearing ear plugs.

[xjrev10]

Is this it?

Amazon.com: Differentials: Identification, Restoration & Repair - 2nd Edition: [email]Books (http://www.amazon.com/Differentials-Identification-Restoration-Repair-Edition/dp/B004G8MUQ4/ref=tmm_pap_title_0?ie=UTF8&qid=1344876322&sr=1-1)

Yes.

[xjrev10]

Good call! And I was going to do a new Woods drive shaft since mine is looking a bit beat. So 1350 it is!
I'll be starting with the least expensive items first. Start stacking up parts like I'm known for.

Before you drop BIG money for a Tom Woods shaft, check your local driveline shop. Bet they could do ya a helleva lot better on price. No backordering problems/waiting for UPS, etc.

[4.3LXJ]

The advantage to Tom Woods is the tube. Very heavy stuff and will support the weight of the vehicle. Real handy in the rocks.

[07Negative]

Before you drop BIG money for a Tom Woods shaft, check your local driveline shop. Bet they could do ya a helleva lot better on price. No backordering problems/waiting for UPS, etc.

Interesting timing on this comment. I live in the Bay Area. Too find a shop who actually does good work, is far and few between. All the older hot rod guys are either dead or retired. The only thing I've got near by is a 4Wheel Parts and I've had several negative experiences with them. I'm a cash paying (not a debit card or any other plastic paying) kinda cat. The location near me seems to take more of a liking to the wealthier demographic. So I refuse to spend any amount of time in there.
So I've got oil caked all over my starter. And for whatever reason I started to think how this my area (Bay Area, Ca) is kinda full of candy asses who just take their cars in for repairs. So there are auto shops all over the place, but when I ask them a question regarding my particular car and situation. They're clueless. Not that I mind doing my own work. But I think that just goes to show how when you live in such a affluent area vs a area that is not. It shows you what your local resources are. And I suppose rightfully so. If you have money. You're more likely to pay someone else to do the work for ya.

I'm experiencing this effect with finding someone to do the ring and pinion work. I've got to load my axles onto the trailer and take them 50 miles away, which includes crazy bay bridge traffic.
I really don't mind dropping money on a product that I find value in. I value US made, local (if possible) and independently owned businesses.
I don't have cable T.V or a fancy cellular phone or anything like that in general. So i can justify the costs since I don't live too lavished. I'm also selling my trumpet and a few other misc. items to compensate for expenses.

[07Negative]

has anyone got experience or just an opinion on this kind of product?
http://www.foxracingshox.com/product.php?make=Jeep&t=shocks&m=truck&p=1&ref=filter
I was thinking about doing it with the D44. I am trying to achieve a touch more lift. Since I don't have the axle installed yet and I've been putting the angle grinder to work. What the heck?

[4.3LXJ]

Gotta watch the valving and pressure on those. They put a lot of pressure on them which makes them stiff.

[07Negative]

shit I posted the wrong link!
this is the correct link. Not sure why that happened....
http://www.tntcustoms.com/Jeep_YJ_XJ_MJ/ubolt_eliminators.aspx

[07Negative]

I already have those shocks. They are stiffer than morning wood. I want to get the Bilstein 5100's. I'm currently at 4.5" I want to be at 6". So that when I add the bumpers. It'll drop down to 5.5". I want to stick to LCG.

[xjrev10]

The advantage to Tom Woods is the tube. Very heavy stuff and will support the weight of the vehicle. Real handy in the rocks.

Yes agreed. But paying a premium for a name just don't make sense too me..... Ha!

[07Negative]

So I phukt up today on the dana 30. I cut about 1.2mm into the axle tubing, using a dremel. I thought I'd be slick and cut through the weld. Its only a short length, but I still feel like a dumb ass.
I know you might be thinking, "how does this guy know he cut 1.2mm?" I used this device that I use for my occupation to measure and since I work in mm on the daily. I measured it.
I think I'm going to fill it in with some Elmer's glue and be cool with it.

[4.3LXJ]

Super glue DeeJay, the kind they have at the hobby store :D

[xj4life2]

For drive shaft work call either Paradise driveline (Vern)530-877-1441 he will ship or High Angle driveline (Jesse) he will ship also. All they require is measurements and what you want. Tell them Mark from Payless sent ya, you'll get a good deal.