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89Laredo
07-31-2012, 04:58 PM
I have a 97 booster I am going to use and I will be swapping the 97 brake pedal in also.
The question:
Do you HAVE to use the 97 master?
All the writeups include changing the booster AND the master, but does it absolutely have to be done that way?
I would like to keep my renix master, I just bought it and its new, not reman. Id like to not have to bleed my brakes (bleeders are rusted and would most likely break) or deal with making new master to prop valve lines (I had to cut the 97 ones).

xj4life2
07-31-2012, 06:03 PM
Sadley the Renix master wont work in that system, I know you more than likely paid a small fortune for the master, but you need to swap to the 97 master also

89Laredo
07-31-2012, 09:34 PM
Ugh.

Well, I actually do have the MC to Prop valve lines.
I dont need to use the 97 prop valve, right?
http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8144/7688437314_7773823968_b.jpg

The fun part will be bleeding the brakes without breaking anything...

xj4life2
08-01-2012, 01:22 PM
Last one I did I used everything from the doaner jeep booster, master lines and prop. valve. It made it easier, all I had to do was run the lines to the Prop and I was done. I have used the Renix Prop in the past, I really think I had better brakes when I used the 97, but I might just be foolin myself.

89Laredo
08-01-2012, 01:43 PM
You've used a 97 booster?
From what I understand the 97+ boosters aren't as desirable because of a longer rod.
Did you use the 97 pedal too?
Run into any problems?

Sent from my Milestone X using Tapatalk 2

xj4life2
08-01-2012, 01:51 PM
Sorry I was looking at your post and saw the 97 , I used the 96 with the dual diaphram and yes I swapped the pedals also, I suggest this as it makes the inside hook up a breeze,I mean it just came off the same rod..... Its always best to use everything you can from the doaner rig.Don't forget to remove all the Renix crap from under the hood (people will pay good money for the ABS pump) and remove the ABS light bulb from the dash so you dont have to deal with it.

89Laredo
08-01-2012, 01:54 PM
None of my jeeps have ever had abs, from the factory.
So no dealing with that crap.
Will use the 97 pedal.

89Laredo
08-15-2012, 12:47 AM
Did it a couple days ago, brakes are MUCH better. Used the 89 pedal and 97 booster, the renix brake switch wont work with the 97 pedal.
Pedal is much higher and a little hard to get used to, I might actually cut and weld the rod to get the pedal back to where its supposed to be.
Will do a writeup eventually, but didnt take many pics.

XJ Wheeler
08-15-2012, 01:07 AM
Did it a couple days ago, brakes are MUCH better. Used the 89 pedal and 97 booster, the renix brake switch wont work with the 97 pedal.
Pedal is much higher and a little hard to get used to, I might actually cut and weld the rod to get the pedal back to where its supposed to be.
Will do a writeup eventually, but didnt take many pics.

Do it again. :D We need those pics!

oderdene
08-15-2012, 04:21 AM
Do it again. :D We need those pics!

2X, photos or it didn't .... :D

89Laredo
08-16-2012, 11:36 PM
Only ones I took

89Laredo
05-30-2013, 03:09 PM
New question..
Will a wj master bolt up and work with my 97 booster?

Brasscatz
05-30-2013, 08:33 PM
I don't have a definitive answer for you, but everything I've seen has stated doing both master cylinder AND booster upgrade. I can't find a case where one was done without the other. I'll keep looking and see if I can find a better answer for you

Brasscatz
05-30-2013, 08:41 PM
Ok, so here's a copy and paste from another site. The part of the MC that goes into the booster on a WJ is: Stock WJ (dont know what yr to yr but do know it was out of a 04) 1.730 OD

And then this guy took these measurments: Real World Measurements: + or - 1 or 2 thousands

I just pulled my master cylinder.
2001 Cherokee Sport stock master cylinder 1 inch bore.
Not sure about DC part number.
Cast on the bottom of the MC: BENDIX 0180C 4028 34
Cast on mounting flange: F102 0223
Cast on the end of the MC: 0236C 4651

Diameter of MC where it enters the booster: 1.75 inch
Note: the cylindrical part of the mc that enters the booster steps up to a larger diameter just before the rubber seal. This is the part that actually seals against the booster. The diameter at this point is: 1 29/32 or 1.9 inch

Distance hole-to-hole mounting flange: 3.21 inch

Diameter of mounting flange bolt holes: 11/32 inch

Brasscatz
05-30-2013, 08:44 PM
I know it says from a 2001 xj and I don't know if it's the same as a 97. So it seems they are different by a few thousandths of an inch if both parties measured at the exact same point. Is that measly difference enough to not work? I don't know. Here's the link to the site I found this info from: http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/jeep-cherokee/575345-xj-mj-zj-wj-master-cylinder-upgrade-thread-what-works-no-questions.html Hope this helps ya

89Laredo
05-31-2013, 12:40 AM
My understanding is that the MC has to seal against the booster or youll get a vacuum leak and hard pedal. Dont know if it would work or not. Guess Ill have to pull my MC out and put the WJ one on to find out. Only paid 15 bucks, Ill just try to sell it on the forums if it doesnt work.