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Krew
07-30-2012, 01:01 AM
OK her e is the problem; I completed the Durango power steering upgrade about three weeks ago, it has about 6 hours run time on it, and no trail time. I followed the build form this link http://www.cherokeeforum.com/f51/durango-steering-box-upgrade-3805/. Well today I took the jeep on a little drive going no faster than 35 MPH and I believe the power steering reservoir exploded (I won’t know for sure until tomorrow when I can tear it all apart, but fluid was pouring out around that area.) and 2 out of the 3 bolts that hold the power steering box in place snapped and I also was not able to turn the wheels with the steering wheel. But I am able to turn the wheels by hand. So my question is, how could this happen and what can I do to avoid it again. I am also wondering what the torque is supposed to be for those bolts, and if that could have been the problem. Also I am using a steering box stabilizer, could I that be the problem. How can I tell if the steering box is shot or not? How can I tell if the power steering pump is shot or not or do I need to upgrade the power steering box? Has this happened to anyone?

cantab27
07-30-2012, 01:16 AM
can ya post pics in the daylight hours ???

4.3LXJ
07-30-2012, 10:30 AM
Yes, pics would be nice. But I am guessing from your info that the box is bad.

Krew
07-30-2012, 10:58 AM
Here are the pics, but I personally don’t think the power steering box is bad… but I don’t understand how two out of three grade 8 bolts snapped in half. In the pic I show two bolts and the third is MIA, but as you can tell from looking at the power steering box the one that is missing snapped as well. And the only thing holding up the box right now is the box stabilizer. I was able to turn the wheels by hand while the truck was on the ground, which is the other reason why I don’t think the power steering box is completely shot.

From Top to Bottom
Left to Right
The first picture is the two bolts. One that has snapped and the second which is still in good condition.
The second picture is of the power steering box and the stabilizer holding it up.
The third picture is where the steering box stabilizer is mounted to.
The fourth picture is showing what happened to the c-rok spacer
The fifth picture is showing the power steering pump/reservoir
The six picture is showing the top of the power steering box

Now I won’t be able to tear the front end apart today as I originally thought so if you would like me to take any other pictures please let me know.

4.3LXJ
07-30-2012, 11:18 AM
What grade bolts are you using? They look like they might be brittle

4.3LXJ
07-30-2012, 11:32 AM
I went out to check my own stuff to make sure. I am using grade 5 bolts. They are after all going into cast iron. Many people make the mistake of using grade 8 or better on everything. The bolts are only as strong as what they fasten to. Grade 8 bolts can be brittle. It looks like the box might have flexed on the frame a little in spite of your brace. The best thing to do is plate at least one side, the outside of the frame first and bolt through it. Often you can use a winch mount bumper for this purpose. The stock frame is notorious for flexing, being only stamped sheet metal and is not up to the additional stress of the upgraded box. I am currently using an agr super pump which puts out 50% more pressure, which is the same thing in the end as using the larger box. I haven't had issues due to the winch mount plate. And go to grade 5 bolts, which are still stronger than you need. Make sure your inside mounting plate for the box is one for it and does not allow the box to rock

Krew
07-30-2012, 11:36 AM
OK Thank, and you are saying i should get rid of the power steering box stabilizer right?

4.3LXJ
07-30-2012, 11:37 AM
I think you can keep it. But brace the frame for sure. When I did, it did noticeably steer straighter.

Krew
07-30-2012, 12:21 PM
do you think a 16 gauge steel brace would be good enough?

4.3LXJ
07-30-2012, 12:22 PM
You need to plate that frame with 3/16" minimum

Krew
07-30-2012, 02:37 PM
Thanks man.

4.3LXJ
07-30-2012, 02:59 PM
No problem Robert. What is the rest of your rig like. We like pics of everything

nickxj94
07-30-2012, 03:06 PM
do you think a 16 gauge steel brace would be good enough?

I used 1/4 inch plate on mine and grade 8 bolts with my winch bumper. Its a little overkill probably but I rather it not break

Sent from my SCH-M828C using Tapatalk 2

Krew
07-31-2012, 09:17 PM
I ended up geting a 1/4 inch beacuse it was cheaper.

4.3LXJ
07-31-2012, 09:18 PM
Sounds like a plan. Do you know how to make a template?

Krew
08-01-2012, 06:05 AM
Yea, with cardboard.

4.3LXJ
08-01-2012, 09:24 AM
Okie dokie

ArmyGuy45
08-01-2012, 01:12 PM
Why do the upgrade?

4.3LXJ
08-01-2012, 04:53 PM
Fair question Matt. When you go to larger tires, it takes more power to turn them, especially on trails with rocks. So by upgrading the steering box, or to a super pump, you get easier steering and a new car feel on the steering even with the larger tires.

XJ Wheeler
08-01-2012, 07:59 PM
Fair question Matt. When you go to larger tires, it takes more power to turn them, especially on trails with rocks. So by upgrading the steering box, or to a super pump, you get easier steering and a new car feel on the steering even with the larger tires.

To add to your info, larger tires add more stress leading to premature wear. My 31s have worn my box to the point i can turn my wheel about two inches free play and i can see the main shaft in the box move from side to side.

bluedragon436
08-01-2012, 08:26 PM
To add to your info, larger tires add more stress leading to premature wear. My 31s have worn my box to the point i can turn my wheel about two inches free play and i can see the main shaft in the box move from side to side.

I've had this issue with my XJ running 33's, I was already wanting to replace/upgrade my box.. so think I'll be doing the V8 Durango upgrade on my steering box once I get back from this upcoming deployment.. Might look into doing the steering box brace and bumper upgrade at the same time

XJ Wheeler
08-01-2012, 08:37 PM
I've had this issue with my XJ running 33's, I was already wanting to replace/upgrade my box.. so think I'll be doing the V8 Durango upgrade on my steering box once I get back from this upcoming deployment.. Might look into doing the steering box brace and bumper upgrade at the same time

I plan on doing the same except the bumper will have to wait. Probably gonna end up doing a more powerful pump and a cooler as well.

bluedragon436
08-01-2012, 08:38 PM
Oh my bumper upgrade will most likely have to wait too.. but would like to at least do the gearbox upgrade and the box stiffner install as soon as I can..

XJ Wheeler
08-01-2012, 08:46 PM
Oh my bumper upgrade will most likely have to wait too.. but would like to at least do the gearbox upgrade and the box stiffner install as soon as I can..

Do you know what brace you're going with yet? Can't make up my mind.

4.3LXJ
08-01-2012, 09:09 PM
That can happen, bigger means more wear. That is why I am heading for ram assist :D

XJ Wheeler
08-01-2012, 09:34 PM
That can happen, bigger means more wear. That is why I am heading for ram assist :D

Yes! When i do the durango box swap i'll probably go ahead and tap it for hydro assist as well.

4.3LXJ
08-01-2012, 10:57 PM
Yes! When i do the durango box swap i'll probably go ahead and tap it for hydro assist as well.

Just a suggestion there to save you some pennies. The hydro assist needs more volume in the pump or it will not keep up with your steering wheel. So you need the super pump to go with it. If you put the super pump on, which pumps about 50% more pressure, which is about what you gain from a Durango box. So, if you are going hydro assist, the idea is you use a standard box tapped with the better pump. So, if you are going to really do that, then add the pump now and you are at the box upgrade and then you are on your way. I run the pump and my box is tapped and ready. It really does make a difference and is easier than changing the box out.

XJ Wheeler
08-01-2012, 11:40 PM
Just a suggestion there to save you some pennies. The hydro assist needs more volume in the pump or it will not keep up with your steering wheel. So you need the super pump to go with it. If you put the super pump on, which pumps about 50% more pressure, which is about what you gain from a Durango box. So, if you are going hydro assist, the idea is you use a standard box tapped with the better pump. So, if you are going to really do that, then add the pump now and you are at the box upgrade and then you are on your way. I run the pump and my box is tapped and ready. It really does make a difference and is easier than changing the box out.

So your saying if i do the hydro assist to tap a stock xj box and get a super pump? My plan is to step up to 33s on my current lift then later go up another 2" and cut more for 35-37"s. That second step is when i'll do the hydro assist.

4.3LXJ
08-02-2012, 12:03 AM
Yes, that should be the plan. You can get them for about $200 and only takes an hour at the most to install. Total bolt in.

XJ Wheeler
08-02-2012, 01:24 AM
Yes, that should be the plan. You can get them for about $200 and only takes an hour at the most to install. Total bolt in.

What i was thinking is to go with a durango box and super pump so it would handle the 33s for a couple years and when i go bigger i will most likely upgrade to bigger axles and go ahead and put the ram on at that time. Would that be okay to do?

ArmyGuy45
08-02-2012, 07:29 AM
Wow! Great info. Thanks. Adding it to the list of things to buy!

Mudderoy
08-02-2012, 09:40 AM
To add to your info, larger tires add more stress leading to premature wear. My 31s have worn my box to the point i can turn my wheel about two inches free play and i can see the main shaft in the box move from side to side.

I guess you adjusted that thing on the top of the steering box? I don't even know what it is called. When I was having problems with my drop pitman arm wiggling side to side, I thought it was the steering box adjustment. I adjusted it so tight I would make a turn then have to turn it back straight with the same force! :rotfl2:

4.3LXJ
08-02-2012, 10:29 AM
XJ Wheeler, bear in mind that if you do that, you will have about 2.25 times the amount of stress on your frame. You will definitely need bracing for that.

XJ Wheeler
08-02-2012, 03:02 PM
I guess you adjusted that thing on the top of the steering box? I don't even know what it is called. When I was having problems with my drop pitman arm wiggling side to side, I thought it was the steering box adjustment. I adjusted it so tight I would make a turn then have to turn it back straight with the same force! :rotfl2:

Yeah, i tried but the thing was frozen solid. I suppose i should try again but it seems like i can't get a big enough wrench in there. Any tips?


XJ Wheeler, bear in mind that if you do that, you will have about 2.25 times the amount of stress on your frame. You will definitely need bracing for that.

For sure! My plan was to swap the box, install a super pump, cooler, gen right aluminum pulley, plate both sides of the frame at the box, and possibly get some braided stainless hoses made up.

4.3LXJ
08-02-2012, 06:28 PM
Pull your efan to access it better.

XJ Wheeler
08-03-2012, 11:34 AM
Pull your efan to access it better.

Did that, thought about maybe getting the air box out of the way might help?

4.3LXJ
08-03-2012, 11:37 AM
That too