Cryo treatment

[oderdene]

Hi All,

I have an approval to get 1-2 gallon of LN2 and interesting about cryogenic treatment of parts. Does submerging of u-jount, bearing, tie rod end and axle shaft in liquid nitrogen make them strong? If so, how do it correctly?

Please share an experience, folks.

[4.3LXJ]

No experience yet Od. However I have researched it. Yes, cryo treating u joints makes them stronger. It is done commonly here. Haven't heard of tie rod ends yet. However axle shafts, ring and pinion gears and birfields are very common. If you want more info, contact Bobby Longfield at

http://www.longfieldsuperaxles.com/

[LizardRunner]

The hardest part of cryo treating is the slow warm up required. Think of it this way, if you dip a rose into LN and tap it on a table, it shatters. Same thing will happen to metal.

[oderdene]

Googled a lot, but can not find instruction or detailed procedure. Thinking, throw part to container, pour ln2 and wait till evaporate all, then temperature equalize. :d

[Mudderoy]

Still looking but have a poke at this... :link: (http://www.fourwheeler.com/techarticles/drivetrain/129_0705_cryogenic_gear_treatment/index.html)

[LizardRunner]

In my knife and sword making I use different temperatures for the quench, depending on what use the item will be for. Just taking a part at room temp and pouring LN or LOX over it will change some of the metal composition to martinsite, usually just the exterior 3-4 mm, plenty to make it last much longer than a normal piece. If you were to gently heat the part, then quench in LN or LOX, you would end up with a martinsite depth of nearly 100 percent. The trick is to have enough depth of martinsite to give more durability and strength without creating something that could snap from to much super hard martinsite (the Japanese sword is a good example of the right blend of hard and soft metal composition, especially when compared to the "western" broad sword).

Here's the basics of the proceedure; Cryogenic treatment utilizes liquid nitrogen to bring the temperature of your racing parts down to -300°F. The parts are then kept at this temperature for 24 hours. This relieves the residual stresses and produces a more consistent and uniform material. The benefits of this process are increased part life, less wear, and improved performance.

This site has a lot of good information for those wanting to explore . http://www.nitrofreeze.com/cryogenic_tech.html

[LizardRunner]

Googled a lot, but can not find instruction or detailed procedure. Thinking, throw part to container, pour ln2 and wait till evaporate all, then temperature equalize. :d

to properly cryo a part you need an insulated container that; 1. the part will fit in with a little clearance all around. 2. has a tight fitting lid that can be removed while you have thick gloves on. (don't want to loose any digits from freezing)

To perform a cryo- treatment. Place part in insulated container so it touches as little of the container as possible. Pour in LN and fasten lid on container. Walk away for 24 hours. Open container and either remove part or carefully pour LN into storage container. Remove part with something that keeps your body away from the part. Let sit till room temp. Install and enjoy the benifits.

If you would like more info without having to do all the research, I'll do a write up if requested.

[oderdene]

Thanks a lot, exactly what i am looking, found some instruction from ukranian tool makers forum. Man made a mould like container with lid using foam, one found in pelican case. Will try soon. :D