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View Full Version : Please help!!!!!!!!!!! Motor seems to be in a bind.



hogdgz
05-28-2012, 05:11 AM
ITs a long story but very interesting. I just picked up FREE a 1993 Cherokee, the interior is gross and the exterior is ok. Guy said the motor runs great (and it does). But he said when he puts it in gear and lets out on the clutch the jeep just bogs down and looses all power. He was thinking it was a vacum problem or tranny problem and messed around with the vacum lines. So I get a trailer and tow the jeep home. When I get home I start messing with the vacum lines and realize all the lines are to short and the breather hose is too short. So I got to thinkin that something aint right, everything is to short. I look at the motor mounts and yep, the driver side mount is shot, motor looks like a SLANT SIX sitting under the hood. The bolts sheared off in the block and the tranny bracket is bent also (he tried to keep driving it).

So heres my question. When he gave me the jeep he said everything happened all at once. Check engine light came on, powertrain lost power, and when he let out on the clutch the motor bogs and stalls out, we still managed to drive it on the trailer though. So My thinkin is when the motor mount broke the motor fell down some causing the vacum lines to come unhooked which made the check engine light come on. But what I am concerned with is if, I put alot of time in replacing the motor mounts and tranny mount is this gonna fix the problem, because everything was in a bind so this is what caused it to seem like it lost all power when u let out on the clutch. I am also worried about the trannt cause its leaking fluid out of the yoke end from him trying to keep driving it and I am afraid he might have cracked the tranny but hopefully its just a seal. Tried to explain everything as good as I could without being too long winded. I just dont know if I wanna put alot of money in this thing. It has alot of floor rust, 3 inch suspension lift is shot along with tire rod ends and ball joints, tires are wore out. The interior looks like CRAP. he left the windows down and parked it under a oak tree when it broke down on him. On the good side the motor has 200,000 miles but he had it rebuilt 30k ago and it runs like a champ.

ANY HELP WILL BE APPRECIATED!!! Thanks and this is my first post.

Mudderoy
05-28-2012, 07:03 AM
ITs a long story but very interesting. I just picked up FREE a 1993 Cherokee, the interior is gross and the exterior is ok. Guy said the motor runs great (and it does). But he said when he puts it in gear and lets out on the clutch the jeep just bogs down and looses all power. He was thinking it was a vacum problem or tranny problem and messed around with the vacum lines. So I get a trailer and tow the jeep home. When I get home I start messing with the vacum lines and realize all the lines are to short and the breather hose is too short. So I got to thinkin that something aint right, everything is to short. I look at the motor mounts and yep, the driver side mount is shot, motor looks like a SLANT SIX sitting under the hood. The bolts sheared off in the block and the tranny bracket is bent also (he tried to keep driving it).

So heres my question. When he gave me the jeep he said everything happened all at once. Check engine light came on, powertrain lost power, and when he let out on the clutch the motor bogs and stalls out, we still managed to drive it on the trailer though. So My thinkin is when the motor mount broke the motor fell down some causing the vacum lines to come unhooked which made the check engine light come on. But what I am concerned with is if, I put alot of time in replacing the motor mounts and tranny mount is this gonna fix the problem, because everything was in a bind so this is what caused it to seem like it lost all power when u let out on the clutch. I am also worried about the trannt cause its leaking fluid out of the yoke end from him trying to keep driving it and I am afraid he might have cracked the tranny but hopefully its just a seal. Tried to explain everything as good as I could without being too long winded. I just dont know if I wanna put alot of money in this thing. It has alot of floor rust, 3 inch suspension lift is shot along with tire rod ends and ball joints, tires are wore out. The interior looks like CRAP. he left the windows down and parked it under a oak tree when it broke down on him. On the good side the motor has 200,000 miles but he had it rebuilt 30k ago and it runs like a champ.

ANY HELP WILL BE APPRECIATED!!! Thanks and this is my first post.

Well motor mounts are pretty cheap. You'd just need to lift the engine up and get it stable while you worked on getting the bolts out. Wow snapped them all off. That seems strange to me, you know to do driving it.

I can't say that will be the only thing you'll have to fix, or that it will solve your problem, but certainly it's something that is going to have to be resolved. I'm surprised the fan isn't into the radiator.

JENSSEN
05-28-2012, 08:26 AM
Unbolt your exhaust infront of the cat converter to see if you have any restrictions, check your fuel pressure too could be a weak pump or plugged filter too, if neither of those show an issue look at your timing to make sure it's advancing as it could be as simple as a weak CPS

4.3LXJ
05-28-2012, 10:05 AM
The tcase leak is probably as simple as a seal. It should be fixed in as little as 30 minutes. The motor mount bolts will be a pain to get at. But broken motor mounts bolts do happen on these motors, but not if the mount is good. If the vacuum lines are off, I believe there is one that goes to the map sensor that you will need to hook up and that may get your normal rpms back. The catalytic converter being plugged is a good possibility.

Brasscatz
05-28-2012, 10:15 AM
Sounds pretty bad.... what you really need to do (since you got it free, and all) is put it back on the trailer, and tow it down here to Houston. I'll take the thing off your hands free of charge :D

On a serious note, I do think these guys summed it up. Please let us know how it goes! Always anxious to hear success stories! Welcome to xjtalk!

hogdgz
05-28-2012, 12:32 PM
Well I am just trying to figure out how to get to the motor mount on the drivers side. Guessing I have to take off the manifold to get to it, and I know that will be a pain because I am shure i will break a stud off getting the manifolds off.

My main concern was If I get the motor mounts back in place and a new tranny mount if this could fix my problem of the jeep stalling when letting out on the clutch. I am guessing its putting everything in a bind.

Mudderoy
05-28-2012, 12:39 PM
Well I am just trying to figure out how to get to the motor mount on the drivers side. Guessing I have to take off the manifold to get to it, and I know that will be a pain because I am shure i will break a stud off getting the manifolds off.

My main concern was If I get the motor mounts back in place and a new tranny mount if this could fix my problem of the jeep stalling when letting out on the clutch. I am guessing its putting everything in a bind.

I've never experienced this, but that's what I was thinking as well. Personally I wouldn't run the engine until the mount is fixed.

Also there are some motor mounts built by Brown Dog that use more tie in points on the block. Jenssen uses them and they are bad a$$. Pricey but I doubt you'd break off 5 bolts holding it to the block.

cantab27
05-28-2012, 01:18 PM
dude there is only one way to find out if its gonna run and that's fix the mount..will see more when engine is sitting in the right position..its not a hard job and cheap.....done mine awhile back in my old 95..... snapped bolts while wheeling ,

hogdgz
05-29-2012, 06:18 AM
I tinkered with it some last night and was hopeing I could go through the wheel well and get to the mount but its looking like I am gonna have to take the intake manifold off. Guess I am just being lazy, lol.

Brasscatz
05-29-2012, 11:17 AM
I tinkered with it some last night and was hopeing I could go through the wheel well and get to the mount but its looking like I am gonna have to take the intake manifold off. Guess I am just being lazy, lol.

Nah, not lazy :) I call it smart to try to do things the easiest way possible! Like, why pull the motor out to do an oil change?

nickxj94
05-29-2012, 01:55 PM
Well Jack the Jeep up on some stands but a wood block on a Jack and Jack the engine back in place then hook the lines that are off back up then see if it stalls will in the air and motor in place that should save you money if it's not the problem, but yea if the engine and trans are in a bind it will stall some and that's probably the cause of the leaking t case seal I bet the drive shafts are in a bad angle too,

JENSSEN
05-29-2012, 10:28 PM
I have never pulled any engine parts to change mounts,...

xj4life2
05-31-2012, 01:55 PM
Never had to remove a manifold to replace a motor mount, try this

1.Disconnect battery ground cable.
2.Remove through bolt retaining nut (1), Fig. 1. Do not remove through bolt at this time.
3.Remove engine mount upper retaining bolt (3), then raise and support vehicle.
4.Support engine with a suitable jack, then remove engine mount lower retaining nut (4) and through bolt (2). On six cylinder engines, it may be necessary to remove the air pump and hose assembly to allow removal of through bolt.
5.Raise engine slightly and support, then remove engine mount (5).
6.Reverse procedure to install noting the following:
On all except 1989-91 models, torque all nuts and bolts to 32 ft. lbs.
On 1989-92 torque engine mount retaining bolts to 30 ft. lbs. and the through bolt to 48 ft. lbs.

Sorry no pic to go with it but I think you can figure it out , take your time and be patient!!!

http://i837.photobucket.com/albums/zz298/payless4x/motormount.gif

ok so i broke down and got the pic too lollol

hogdgz
06-01-2012, 06:33 AM
Thanks for all the info guys. I havent had time to mess with it and really havent got motivated yet. Its been really hot here in south ga. I will keep yall posted.