Toyota guy converted to jeep

[toytroy]

I've always liked how xj's looked and what not so I ended up selling my 79 yota that I worked on for years to get a decent xj. I picked up a 89 with a il6, ax15 trans and bone stock in dang nice condition from a guy for $1000 cause "the 4wd don't work". The t case is fine and it has vacuum so I'm thinking its a easy fix. Anyways, I'm looking at a zone lift kit (3 inch lift). I know I'm gonna get a drop pitman arm for it. I don't want to run anything over 3-3.5 inches due too we have a lot of steep hills where I wheel and I don't want to be too high up. I'm gonna go with a full pack in the rear cause I'm not a big fan of just aal's. I don't want to drop the t case any cause we have big stumps and rocks and I don't wanna get hung up. I was going to get a sye just for precausion (I know its not needed on that small of a lift but I do do freeway driving a lot). A question I do have is, I want to run 31's on the stock rims but I'm not totaly sure what is a great all around tire. On my toyota, I've ran baja claws (not that impressed), toyo mt's (decent all around but seemed to heavy and stiff, awsome in the sand on the yota), and I did some super swappers but they seemed to dig a lot on looser dirt. The tire I am looking for is, decent road manners, decent sand and rocks and just ok in the mud (don't like packing bearings every other day due too the mud and water lol). I seen the maxxis big horns and they look decent but haven't seen anyone wheel them. So if anyone has any suggestions on anything I said or should do, let me know cause I'm a newb to the xj/jeep's. Thanks


Also, what should I check for with the vacuum lock? Should I just get like a posi lok instead of trying to fix it?

[Mudderoy]

I've always liked how xj's looked and what not so I ended up selling my 79 yota that I worked on for years to get a decent xj. I picked up a 89 with a il6, ax15 trans and bone stock in dang nice condition from a guy for $1000 cause "the 4wd don't work". The t case is fine and it has vacuum so I'm thinking its a easy fix. Anyways, I'm looking at a zone lift kit (3 inch lift). I know I'm gonna get a drop pitman arm for it. I don't want to run anything over 3-3.5 inches due too we have a lot of steep hills where I wheel and I don't want to be too high up. I'm gonna go with a full pack in the rear cause I'm not a big fan of just aal's. I don't want to drop the t case any cause we have big stumps and rocks and I don't wanna get hung up. I was going to get a sye just for precausion (I know its not needed on that small of a lift but I do do freeway driving a lot). A question I do have is, I want to run 31's on the stock rims but I'm not totaly sure what is a great all around tire. On my toyota, I've ran baja claws (not that impressed), toyo mt's (decent all around but seemed to heavy and stiff, awsome in the sand on the yota), and I did some super swappers but they seemed to dig a lot on looser dirt. The tire I am looking for is, decent road manners, decent sand and rocks and just ok in the mud (don't like packing bearings every other day due too the mud and water lol). I seen the maxxis big horns and they look decent but haven't seen anyone wheel them. So if anyone has any suggestions on anything I said or should do, let me know cause I'm a newb to the xj/jeep's. Thanks


Also, what should I check for with the vacuum lock? Should I just get like a posi lok instead of trying to fix it?

First off welcome to the site and the world of Jeep XJ's :thumbsup:

For a 3" lift a drop pitman arm may give you bump steer. Stay with the stock one. SYE isn't necessary for anything under 4.5" of lift. The 97+ are more sensitive to this than the older models. We have a couple of people on here with 6.5" of lift and NO SYE.

I personally don't think you can go wrong with the BFG KM2. I've had one set of KM and I just started on a set of KM2 both MT. I have a 1999 with a set of BFG KM2 AT. A very nice tire.

If you are looking for something more aggressive for mud I was looking at the Cooper tires, but went with the KM2 instead.

Personally I would either replace the vacuum disconnect with a mechanical cable solution or get rid of the disconnect all together. It's a weak point.

We have a member that has a 3.5" lift and he runs 33" tires. You'll need to do some cutting, and unlike he did, I would recommend actual longer bump stops. He just uses his fenders as bump stops. :smiley-laughing021:

[4.3LXJ]

Hi Troy. I have Yota stuff too, and just sold my 84 pickup. But to answer your questions, you cannot go wrong with a SYE. But it is not necessary on that small of a lift. But definitely a bonus. As far as tires go, best all around usually go between BFG KM2 or the Goodyear Kevlar. The Kevlars do better in the rocks, but the KM2s do better in the mud and soft stuff. Good year Duratracs get good reviews too if you are looking for more of a winter driving tire, but don't get them from Walmart. Swampers can be a good tire, but too loud for a unibody rig. Besides you are not supposed to drive them over 55 mph. Though many do. Tony and I are currently running KM2s. I haven't had mine long, but they are a flexy tire. Many tires nowadays are getting too stiff for anything but hard core rock crawling.

[toytroy]

First off welcome to the site and the world of Jeep XJ's :thumbsup:

For a 3" lift a drop pitman arm may give you bump steer. Stay with the stock one. SYE isn't necessary for anything under 4.5" of lift. The 97+ are more sensitive to this than the older models. We have a couple of people on here with 6.5" of lift and NO SYE.

I personally don't think you can go wrong with the BFG KM2. I've had one set of KM and I just started on a set of KM2 both MT. I have a 1999 with a set of BFG KM2 AT. A very nice tire.

If you are looking for something more aggressive for mud I was looking at the Cooper tires, but went with the KM2 instead.

Personally I would either replace the vacuum disconnect with a mechanical cable solution or get rid of the disconnect all together. It's a weak point.

We have a member that has a 3.5" lift and he runs 33" tires. You'll need to do some cutting, and unlike he did, I would recommend actual longer bump stops. He just uses his fenders as bump stops. :smiley-laughing021:

When you say get rid of it all together, what exactly do you mean? I'm use to manual locking hubs, not this vacuum stuff.

Soo no drop pitman arm lol. I just figured since lifting it 3 inches, a 1.5 inch drop pit wouldn't hurt.

I don't want a huge lift cause I don't plan on doind the same stuff I did in the yota cause I have 2 kids and they are wanting to go with now. So 31's is the tallest I want to go with a 3" lift. It keeps me from goin TOO big haha. A buddy of mine has km2 35's on hit chevy and he likes them but, they seemed to wear kind of quwick (it could of just been the way he was driving). I think I might give em a try.

Id like to run stock wheels due to some of the trails I take are VERY narrow and I don't want to put too much stress on the axles and what not by having very wide wheels. I'm thinking on 31's the stock gears should be fine. I was thinking of doin a locker in the rear though.

From what I've read, the zone lift with the full pack springs in the rear are purty good for the price ($510 for spring, coils, shocks and ubolts). If there is something better with full rear springs for about the same price, fill me in.

I guess what I'm overall looking for is a nice trail truck, nothing major.

also, would running 31's on stock rims rub? should I go 30's? I want to get full flex without have to hack my fenders up.

[4.3LXJ]

Troy, that vacuum disconnect was a cheap way to do away with hubs and use a chain drive tcase. I used one for many years. In fact, mine is 25 years old and still functional. However, I did shim mine over to the lock position so it is engaged all the time when I changed my tcase out to an Atlas. It is old school as far as technology so I opted to do that. I could have spent the extra money and fitted it with the vacuum switch, but heck I like it better without it.

As far as a good trail rig, 3" lift and 10.50X31s on stock rims is an excellent combination and gives you the most bang for your buck.

[toytroy]

Troy, that vacuum disconnect was a cheap way to do away with hubs and use a chain drive tcase. I used one for many years. In fact, mine is 25 years old and still functional. However, I did shim mine over to the lock position so it is engaged all the time when I changed my tcase out to an Atlas. It is old school as far as technology so I opted to do that. I could have spent the extra money and fitted it with the vacuum switch, but heck I like it better without it.

As far as a good trail rig, 3" lift and 10.50X31s on stock rims is an excellent combination and gives you the most bang for your buck.

So if I'm getting this straight, your saying I could just shim it and have it locked in all the time?

What could be the issue I'm having? I have vacuum and the t case is working perfect. Like I said, I'm a newb to vacuum locks.

[4.3LXJ]

There are two things that can typically happen. Loss of vacuum from a broken line or a leaking vacuum reservoir. The other is a leaking diaphragm on the vacuum motor. You should address the vacuum leak if you have one because the heater controls work off vacuum. If it is the diaphragm, then you can shim it over, add a posi lock cable to work it manually, which is a PITA in my opinion or replace the vacuum motor. Any of those mean you take it off anyway.

[toytroy]

There are two things that can typically happen. Loss of vacuum from a broken line or a leaking vacuum reservoir. The other is a leaking diaphragm on the vacuum motor. You should address the vacuum leak if you have one because the heater controls work off vacuum. If it is the diaphragm, then you can shim it over, add a posi lock cable to work it manually, which is a PITA in my opinion or replace the vacuum motor. Any of those mean you take it off anyway.

It has vacuum. Idk if its enough but, when I take a vacuum hose off I can hear the suction. The vacuum motor is on the axle right?

[xjrev10]

It has vacuum. Idk if its enough but, when I take a vacuum hose off I can hear the suction. The vacuum motor is on the axle right?

Yes.

To add to the above... 3" lift and 31s are a very good combo for a XJ that sees alot of street time. I drove 45k miles in a 00 XJ with a RE Superride 3.5 with aals. I even pulled my 16 foot boat and two snowmobiles or ATVs with it. Unhook the swaybar when you go wheeling. You will be very surprised what a smallish XJ is capable of. Just be careful of the TJs on 35s that you'll be able to follow just about anywhere!! They get a little irritated. :)

My input on tires.. I ran Cooper STTs on the above jeep for most of it's life. They are excellent tire but wear quickly in the summertime on hot roads due to the soft rubber compound they are made from.

If I was to buy a new set of 31s today.. KM2s or MTRKs hands down. I may even look into some TreadWright Guard Dogs depending on how cheap I was feeling....

I have a set of 32 inch Hankook Dynapros on my MJ project. Looking forward to try them out. Our 04 Liberty had the same tires. They seem pretty dang good so far for use as a car..Ha.

[Mudderoy]

So if I'm getting this straight, your saying I could just shim it and have it locked in all the time?

What could be the issue I'm having? I have vacuum and the t case is working perfect. Like I said, I'm a newb to vacuum locks.

What you may be missing here is Jeep did away with the connect disconnect of the front axle long ago. My 1998 front axle is engaged all the time. I don't have the ability to keep my front axle from turning my transfer case while moving unless I remove the front drive shaft.

It does mean that my front axle is stronger though. Now for gosh I think $1000 I could install some after market manual locking hubs, but I'd rather spend that on lockers.

It seems many people start with the 2 or 3 inch lift then later go to 4.5 or more. I read a post about this when I was looking to do mine. I guess I was just the opposite of that though, as I used to have a full sized 4x4 truck. A 4" lift on it with 36.5" tires meant I was having to pull myself up with the steering wheel to get in the cab.

Not so with the XJ. I was interested in the 6.5" lift, but found out about the SYE issue, so I opted for 4.5". Now I'm looking to go to that 6.5" I originally was considering.

I guess what I'm saying is give yourself a little time with the XJ and the sites (like ours) before you make your final decision. You can always go higher later, but it's just cheaper to lift it once. :D

[4.3LXJ]

It has vacuum. Idk if its enough but, when I take a vacuum hose off I can hear the suction. The vacuum motor is on the axle right?

The place you need to check that is with the line into the vacuum motor. Either the white or yellow line should have vacuum. If not either, then back track to see why not. If it does, then the diaphram might be shot. But just to be sure, put it in 4WD and jack up one front tire. It should not spin.

[toytroy]

Thanks for the help so far guys. I know a few people say go big the first time but, I don't find the need to go big. 3 inch lift with 31's will do great.

[oderdene]

I have ~3" lift and 31x10.50/15 on stock rim. It will rub LCA little @ full turn. People suggested to add washer behind nut