1995 Cherokee Country- Cuts off

[willpoot]

Hello, I have a 1995 Cherokee Country that will cut off while i'm driving, mainly happens when not accelerating. If I am accelerating when it tries to cut off, it just kinda jumps a little but will keep running. It always starts right back up. No engine light is on. Runs fine other than that. Cat is rattling some, thought it may be causing the problem but was told that wouldn't make it stall. Would like to hear what the experts have to say on this. Thank you for your help!

[nickxj94]

sounds like the cps fixing to go out! (crank shaft position sensor).

[willpoot]

how bad is that? As far repairing myself or get a tech?

[nickxj94]

its a $100.00 sensor on the driver side top of the bell housing its easy to change my 94 did the same thing all 4 times mine went out im a pro at replacing them, drop the front driveshaft from the pinon tape your ujoints up and it take a 11mm deep well socket and some extionsions to get the two bolts out but dont drop them in the hole in the bell housing its a pain fishing them out with a magnet..if you get one go to dodge dealer near you and get a good one the lifers that oreillys sells are crap!

[xj4life2]

I don't think CPS , not if it cuts out while driving. More than likely its a short in the fuel pump or fuel pump relay taking a dump on ya.It also could very well be the o2 sensor confusing the computer , had a Bronco II do that to me. Normal symtoms of a CPS is the veh will crank but not start.I stongly suggest hard wireing the CPS and eliminateing the connector (it actually loses 2mv from one side to the other) never had to replace another one after I did this. Also check your main ground wire to be sure its connected and tight. Good Luck

[Mudderoy]

its a $100.00 sensor on the driver side top of the bell housing its easy to change my 94 did the same thing all 4 times mine went out im a pro at replacing them, drop the front driveshaft from the pinon tape your ujoints up and it take a 11mm deep well socket and some extionsions to get the two bolts out but dont drop them in the hole in the bell housing its a pain fishing them out with a magnet..if you get one go to dodge dealer near you and get a good one the lifers that oreillys sells are crap!

There are testing procedures you can do on the CPS before going out and buying one. Also disconnect the plug (sitting on top of the intake near the firewall) and check the connection. Sometimes just disconnecting and reconnecting fixes the problem.

[willpoot]

Are you talking about a spark plug? there is a plug on top of the valve cover near the fire wall( also one in the front of the valve cover) Is that what you are talking about?

[xj4life2]

Are you talking about a spark plug? there is a plug on top of the valve cover near the fire wall( also one in the front of the valve cover) Is that what you are talking about?

No he is refering to the plug for the CPS itself by disconnecting it and re connecting it it can fix the issue sometimes if it is the CPS. Refer back to the 2mv loss i talked about in my previous post.

[Cheromaniac]

There are testing procedures you can do on the CPS before going out and buying one. Also disconnect the plug (sitting on top of the intake near the firewall) and check the connection. Sometimes just disconnecting and reconnecting fixes the problem.

Yes that does sometimes fix the problem but not often. Unfortunately testing the CPS usually yields inconclusive results if the problem is intermittent. The only way you'll know for sure it's bad while testing it is if the engine refuses to start. The tach suddenly dropping to zero while driving along and returning back to normal within seconds is the early sign of a bad CPS. It might not happen again for a while but the problem soon becomes more frequent with the engine refusing to restart for longer periods.
It's better to replace the CPS when you still have the early signs rather than wait until you're stranded at the roadside far away from home calling for a tow truck.

[weaselguys]

I have this same problem on my 94 sport ,I replaced the CPS , IAC ,TPS ,fuel pump , fuel filter , and since mine didn't a CMPS in the distributor I replaced the whole dist with a new style that did. After all this I made 2 20 mile drives with no problems only to have it return again on a longer drive ,now I'm thinking it is a fuel problem pressure or volume.

[Cheromaniac]

Did your check engine light come on? Any fault codes?

[Comanche91]

Hi, I'm new here and am liking what I see. Lot's of expertise here. I am dragging this topic back up as I am having the same cutout problem on my 91 MJ stroker. It has been running great for five years until this started happening about a month ago. It will run fine for a few days then randomly cutoff while driving. I have replaced the CPS with a new Mopar original, it helped for a week or so, but today it cut off again going across a bridge! It's last straw time. Since I am showing a 54 code (Distributor sync pickup) next I am going to replace the original distributor (p/n 53006150) with a new 94-99 Mopar distributor (56027028) since the stator pickup is a lot easier to change. It looks like a pure PnP based on weaselguys post. I sure hope this is it as no one like unreliable Jeeps, including me. Any advice Dino? :hmmmm2:

[4.3LXJ]

Sounds like you are on the right track. The dizzy pickup is another part that fails. Not as often as the CPS, but they do fail

[weaselguys]

Coamnche91 it is a direct swap and easy to ,but with mine even that didn't help .I even direct wired the fuel pump to bypass everything else and that didn't work.I am firmly convinced it was something in the wiring system telling or not telling the injectors to fire because I could have pressure at the rail and it wouldn't run .I gave up and it is now a parts rig ,hope you fair better.

[Cheromaniac]

It will run fine for a few days then randomly cutoff while driving. I have replaced the CPS with a new Mopar original, it helped for a week or so, but today it cut off again going across a bridge! It's last straw time. Since I am showing a 54 code (Distributor sync pickup) next I am going to replace the original distributor (p/n 53006150) with a new 94-99 Mopar distributor (56027028) since the stator pickup is a lot easier to change. It looks like a pure PnP based on weaselguys post. I sure hope this is it as no one like unreliable Jeeps, including me. Any advice Dino? :hmmmm2:

Yeah, no one likes unreliable anything, never mind Jeeps! ;)
Replacing the 22-year-old original distributor with the newer type does sound like the obvious thing to do and even in the worst case scenario that it doesn't solve the cutting out problem, at least the stator is easy to replace and it'll be good preventive maintenance.

[Comanche91]

Yeah, no one likes unreliable anything, never mind Jeeps! ;)
Replacing the 22-year-old original distributor with the newer type does sound like the obvious thing to do and even in the worst case scenario that it doesn't solve the cutting out problem, at least the stator is easy to replace and it'll be good preventive maintenance.

Agree, and just ordered a new Mopar unit. These things are not cheap. :eek:

[XJScarlet]

I am having the same issues as the OP. However, after it dies I have to wait to start it, engine cranks, but it doesn't start. From what I have read, it sounds like the CPS. But I have gone back and tapped on the fuel tank with a rubber mallet and it starts right up. I also have checked the pressure valve on the fuel rail after trying to crank the engine over and pressing the gas pedal to the floor, and there is nothing there. I have also had the tach drop to 0, and then back to where it was in seconds. My battery is also not registering correct voltage until I have been driving it.

In the past month I have replaced the alternator, battery and fuel filter.

I am on a tight budget and it is the DD. Do any of you have any insight that might help?

As always, Thank you!

[4.3LXJ]

If you have no pressure at the rail then it is fuel pump related. But before you replace anything make sure it is getting power first. Might be a relay problem, or bad ground too

[xj4life2]

I am having the same issues as the OP. However, after it dies I have to wait to start it, engine cranks, but it doesn't start. From what I have read, it sounds like the CPS. But I have gone back and tapped on the fuel tank with a rubber mallet and it starts right up. I also have checked the pressure valve on the fuel rail after trying to crank the engine over and pressing the gas pedal to the floor, and there is nothing there. I have also had the tach drop to 0, and then back to where it was in seconds. My battery is also not registering correct voltage until I have been driving it.

In the past month I have replaced the alternator, battery and fuel filter.

I am on a tight budget and it is the DD. Do any of you have any insight that might help?

As always, Thank you!

I would put my money on a CPS going out, there not that expensive and any one who owns a Jeep should carry a spare (i hate to walk)

[Comanche91]

Check for fault codes (http://comancheclub.com/topic/28111-reading-obdi-91-and-92-mj-fault-codes/). It might just help.

[XJScarlet]

I am getting a fault code:

41
Alternator field switch.
Switch not operating correctly and check charging system.

[Comanche91]

I agree with changing the CPS first. It's the most logical and is a very common failure, and can cause all the electrical symptoms you mentioned.

If no joy swap the fuel pump relay with a similar relay in the PDC (AIS relay IIRC). If still problems, then verify the fuel pressures at the rail with a pressure gauge with and w/o vacuum to the fuel regulator.

[XJScarlet]

Seriously, thanks to all of you! I always appreciate all of the tips, you guys are amazing!!!!
I decided to buy the fuel pump and the CPS. I replaced the CPS this morning, which I have to bitch about for second, could it have been placed anymore awkwardly?!?! It is cold and snowy, but I got it.
So far Scarlet starts and runs well, the heater is even hotter. I am going to hold onto the fuel pump for a few days and see what happens, I don't want to declare she's fixed, I am afraid I will jinx it.

*added: I also replaced the fuel pump relay and a few worn out vacuum lines.

[Comanche91]

It sounds like you may have hit the nail on the head XJScarlet. :thumbsup: As well as a new CPS, I've also put in a new 94-97 distributor, and a new O2 sensor. So far no more cutouts or fault codes. I'm hopeful I have hit the nail too. http://comancheclub.com/public/style_emoticons/default/crossfingers.gif

[XJScarlet]

I replaced the CPS, it worked great for a week. I ended up replacing the fuel pump too. Now she is working great.

However, my low beams went out, but my high beams still worked. So I replaced the headlight switch. Headlights work wonderful, but I don't have any side markers or tail lights. Ugh, so now I am off to find some threads to address that. Fuses look good, if I have to I will splice from the side marker itself and directly take it to my damn battery. :banghead:

I think I did something to anger the Jeep gods.
:pray:

[4.3LXJ]

You might want to check that switch. The marker and interior lights are on a separate circuit. Get everything plugged in?

[XJScarlet]

I triple checked it, but I could have missed something. I also wanted to mention the dash cluster isn't working either. I have been searching all over the place ad it seems this has happened to few other people as well. But no 'fixes' have really been found. So far the only thing I have got is that my year of Jeep this problem is somehow effected by the "buzzer"?

I rechecked the fuses and switched them out with my spares and still nothing.