Cam Lifter and Pushrods Replacement

[Nrdsld1]

I have a 98 cherokee 4.0 with 333,000 on the odometer. It has the infamous tapping/knocking sound that follows rpm and has become very obvious. I am pretty confident that it is valvetrain related.
I have already replaced the following within the last year or so:
Oil pump and pick-up, timing chain, main and rod bearings, water pump, spark plugs, wires, cap/rotor, rear seal, rocker-arms, fulcrum/pivot assemblies, and the regular oil/filter changes. I ordered the cam, lifters and pushrods yesterday.
Toward the end of last year, I did a compression check on this engine that seemed to be in the ok range. I believe my readings ranged from 120 - 140psi.
In any event, I have alldatadiy but wanted to get some first hand input from people who have replaced the cam, lifters and pushrods on this engine to maybe make the job go a little smoother and quicker for me.
Any and all resposes would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks
RD.

[Mudderoy]

I have a 98 cherokee 4.0 with 333,000 on the odometer. It has the infamous tapping/knocking sound that follows rpm and has become very obvious. I am pretty confident that it is valvetrain related.
I have already replaced the following within the last year or so:
Oil pump and pick-up, timing chain, main and rod bearings, water pump, spark plugs, wires, cap/rotor, rear seal, rocker-arms, fulcrum/pivot assemblies, and the regular oil/filter changes. I ordered the cam, lifters and pushrods yesterday.
Toward the end of last year, I did a compression check on this engine that seemed to be in the ok range. I believe my readings ranged from 120 - 140psi.
In any event, I have alldatadiy but wanted to get some first hand input from people who have replaced the cam, lifters and pushrods on this engine to maybe make the job go a little smoother and quicker for me.
Any and all resposes would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks
RD.

I don't think the rockers were very expensive you might consider replacing those as well since the push rods ride on them. A valve job would be nice to have done on the head while it is off. A shame you can't change those rings....

[Nrdsld1]

Yep, the more I think about it the more I should probably drop the oil pan and just take the connecting rod cap off and pull the piston/rod assembly out. I would just clean the pistons up but get new rings and wrist pins.
As for the rocker arms, my brother and I replaced the rocker arms, pivot/fulcrum assemblies about 6 months ago.
Any advice in regards to cleaning up the head and how to lap the valves. I was going to borrow a valve spring tool from auto zone to take the valves out myself and clean them up with some brake cleaner.

[LizardRunner]

I'd do a valve seat job before I'd lap them, that way you know you have true surfaces mating together. If you are wanting to just lap what's there you will need fine lapping compound and a good 1/2" drill or even better a good drill press. Once your'e done with the lapping job you would do well to replace the valve seals as well, and don't forget to make sure everything is fully flushed and clean. Before you start the reassembly.

[denverd1]

i'd get that head valve jobbed (even if it had good compression numbers not long ago) and ported out if you can find a good shop to do it. get it flow tested before and after and do some research on where you can pick up flow through it. fairly big job you're tackling, i'd just do a few other things while you're in there. See if you can find a better intake too.... isn't the 2000 intake better and a direct bolt 0n? don't quote me on that...

edit..

also upgrade your valve springs. Go big on your cam and make sure your springs can take the lift. 3 piece for sure.