Help on welding to the Differential

[XJ4IV]

So I have one single tab... JUST 1 to weld onto my differential and Ive heard mixed reviews on welding to the differential ... mixed as far as what rod to use for ARC welding as well as what to use to heat up the cast and how long and cool down process hear is what Ive HEARD thus far

1. heat with oxy/acetelyne til its cherry red THEN weld
2. use nickle rod... this was from a tig welder guy but are there nickle arc rods?
3. when cooling down I have to heat it up after the weld to let it cool down extremely slowly and not just let it air cool

first thing first whats the process of heating on cool down I get the idea of what needs to happen but whats the best method somebody said burry it in sand.... thats not gonna happen its a dana 50 axle others said wrap with exhaust wrap... thats kind spensive like 50 bucks and again its a axle housing kinda difficult to wrap it up

so for all those experienced welder guys what is my SURE fire weld to the 1 inch thick cast housing thats gonna be the win?:D

[4.3LXJ]

Scott, yes the heating is done with a torch. And there is such a thing as nickel rod, not cheap either. But I have never had it take too much stress without pulling a bunch of iron out with it. Just about everyone builds a short truss that welds to the axle tubes out of square tubing. Much easier I think and certainly much stronger.

[XJ4IV]

Scott, yes the heating is done with a torch. And there is such a thing as nickel rod, not cheap either. But I have never had it take too much stress without pulling a bunch of iron out with it. Just about everyone builds a short truss that welds to the axle tubes out of square tubing. Much easier I think and certainly much stronger.
well my problem with that is the location of WHERE I need the tab... its about 8 inches behind where the diff cover mates to the diff so a truss actually wont be beneficial in this aspect meaning the location of where it would be affixed in context to the tube would be about 8 inches back and offering no support
here is where the tab needs to be located
http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m590/XJ4IV/DSC00595.jpg
as you can see it would be a real dilemma on the design of the truss it would prove more beneficial to just weld to the cast

[vwfoolwhy]

Heat up slowly to just before it starts to glow more of the yellow color then bright orange. Weld with NIROD (Nickel Rod) then warm the area after welding shorting the heat times over about 1/2 hour for that area. When you heat during the cooling cycle you do not want to bring it to the glow point only aiding in the slow cure cool.

Also that area of the Diff Housing is the thinnest so be careful with heating. I would build a truss off the tubes to that area and then attach your mounting point.

Good Luck

[bigjim350]

So your gonna have 1 upper control arm mounted further back than the other one? Isnt there enough adjustment in the arm to have it mount on top of the diff, even with the other one?

[XJ4IV]

So your gonna have 1 upper control arm mounted further back than the other one? Isnt there enough adjustment in the arm to have it mount on top of the diff, even with the other one?

yes... and they dont have to be equal since the whole thing rotates ONLY with the lower arm the uppers just prevent the axle rotating backwards and forwards once they are locked in place and bolted to the lower control arms they never move independently from the axle or lower control arm again

simply put radius arms dont move independently at all, once they are bolted in place EVERYTHING (on each side of the axle)moves in unison


and to answer your other question there is only about 3/4 of an inch of thread left so no it cannot come out anymore and its actually a LOT closer to the same length cause the passenger side one is NOT mounted straight up and down its actually angled backwards at a 45* angle they are only about an inch apart

[4.3LXJ]

Scott, I strongly suggest making a longer control arm or if you have nice strong joints, just use one on the other side. I have done it and it works

[Mudderoy]

Scott, I strongly suggest making a longer control arm or if you have nice strong joints, just use one on the other side. I have done it and it works

I was thinking this would be the correct way to go. I keep reading and learning!